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Changing needles

jaxdwg

Active Member
I put in an N65c needle in order to stop the cough at slower speeds and throttle twist. Well now I know what the difference is. The stock needle has a thicker body and a longer taper than the n65c. the 65c caused it to burble at light throttle settings and it ran too rich (34mpg). I went back to the stock needle and put in 1 thin washer and now I get a more stable rev through the range and I get 40 mpg now when off the freeway. Haven't checked freeway speed mpg yet. Just a heads up for the gear heads, Merry Christmas
 
If you take the idle mixture screw all the way out you will see that there is a tapered needle on the end of the screw it allows more or less fuel through the jet depending on how far out of the jet the needle is so the further out you screw the needle the more fuel is allowed through the jet although the jet is feeding at all times adjusting the screw only affects the idle mixture

Brian
 
If you take the idle mixture screw all the way out you will see that there is a tapered needle on the end of the screw it allows more or less fuel through the jet depending on how far out of the jet the needle is so the further out you screw the needle the more fuel is allowed through the jet although the jet is feeding at all times adjusting the screw only affects the idle mixture

Brian

And I might add not too far they will loosen up and I have seen them back out:s
 
The spring is there to hold them tight so between 2 and 3 turns out is usually a good point to start with if it is out too far and not enough spring tension they will as jack said work themselves out and fall by the wayside

Brian
 
Does UNscrewing it make it richer or leaner? It seems that mine gets leaner as I unscrew it
 
Jack has you covered, richer...but the key is to seat it inwards lightly then back out 1 1/2 to 2 turns to start. I like it "lean best plus 1/2 turn...and used 2 #4 washers underneath the stock needle as Glider's tip suggested...works like a champ!:s
 
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