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Cam questions... 01 fxdl

(EDIT) I never crossed that many parts when I used to hot rod my cars. . . Especially in such a small area . . .
Hopefully it will run better than before . .
 
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I will wait to see the pictures to make a call on what measures I would take. It was not uncommon for the rear cam outer bearing to fail in the '99-'01 models. If it was an outer bearing that failed all the debris will be in the cam chest or the oil filter. However, if an inner bearing failed, there will be debris in the crank case and the debris will be smaller pieces. The crank case plug boss is raised above the floor of the crank case so just because no more debris comes out after several flushed does not mean there is no debris left in the crank case. You need to flush, use magnets and good lighting to make sure all the debris has been flushed from the crank case. It will also make a difference how long the motor ran after the bearing failed and whether or not any of the really small debris particles worked their way into the rod bearings and/or crank bearings. If there is any debris there, it will show up down the road. When flushing, fill the crank case deep enough so that when you rotate the crank the rod bearings and have a chance for the diesel to work. I would flush into a clean container, drain and clean the container before flushing/filling again. Keep doing that until you can stick a magnet in the drained diesel and pull it out with no metal debris stuck to the magnet.

I would flush the crank case as suggested above until you are as sure as you can be that there is no debris left in the crank case. Cu the oil filter open as has been suggested and if you find metal, I would suggest a "complete" oil change using the Roque Chopper system. I would also go online to Blackstone and have the send you a sampling kit so you can send it back and have the oil tested to find out if there is any metal flowing in the oil. If there is metal flowing in the oil you have a hard choice to make. Flush crank case, complete oil change and filter, or pull the pan and flush which is a real PITA on the early models.

If you decide to flush, etc. and take you chances, use the Blackstone kit to collect a sample after you have the motor running again to see if metal is flowing in the oil.

BTW, the Fueling oil pumps have earned the moniker "fooling" over the years for a reason........:eek: Nothing wrong with Frankenstein motors though, I run two.........;)
 
Scruffman said:
What would a better pump be. I was going to go with screaming eagle but no longer available as a separate unit
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Go back to #24. Both later pumps are available from a dealer. The first version, PN 26037-06 replaced the early pump and has more capacity and scavenging; available from an online discount dealer for $156. The upgrade version with even more capacity and scavenging is PN 62400001 and is available from an online discount dealer for $112. I still don't know which cam plate you have or are planning to run but either of those oil pumps will work with '07 up cam plate. If you plan to run the early OEM cam plate, the Daytona pump will provide better flow capacity and scavenging and is available on Ebay for $125-$140 depending on the seller. Remember, the early cam plate/pump requires an o-ring to seal the interface but the '07 up cam plate/pump do not.

I don't trust Fueling; there have been issues and customer service is terrible. S&S pump is good hardware but over priced IMHO.
 
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Jack Klarich said:
Dolt, has he verified crank run out?
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Don't know. Scruffman was advised to check and given some suggestions on what was OK and not, so he is aware. Being an '01 model, I doubt runout is an issue but always should be checked..............;)
 
The run out was. 015, the back side tensioner was broken in half... And the cams, eh' need to figure out how to post pics here. They were nasty!

And on a good note the bike has more power now and a deeper tone and has a lot more pull..

What it the break in period on new cams,gears , push rods and lifters?
 
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Scruffman said:
The run out was. 015, the back side tensioner was broken in half... And the cams, eh' need to figure out how to post pics here. They were nasty! And on a good note the bike has more power now and a deeper tone and has a lot more pull..What it the break in period on new cams,gears , push rods and lifters?
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I hope .015" was a typo and run out was .0015".....;) No break in period for cams, gears, valve train.:)
 
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