Cam Installation Questions

Discussion in 'Engine, Fuel and Exhaust' started by jwquinn, Nov 1, 2013.

  1. jwquinn

    jwquinn Member

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    I'm installing S&S 583 cams in my 2012 FLSTC Heritage Classic. I watched the installation vid that's on the S&S web site, and it's a little bit different than what the instructions (came with the cam kit) spell out. There is a step that calls for measuring the clearance between rear cam lobe and the pinion bearing boss, and if necessary removing enough 'material' to allow for a .030" clearance. Has anyone had to shave down the boss, and if so what did you use to do that? I'm thinking that Dremel ought to do it, but was hoping someone here might have some insight.

    I also saw that the oil pump screws need to be removed, and that the guts of the oil pump stay in the cam chest, and the oil pump housing is integral to the cam plate. I'm not doing anything with the pump so I don't expect any problems. Anything to watch for here? Thanks all!
     
  2. Slo-Ryd

    Slo-Ryd Junior Member Contributor

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    A Dremel is about the only thing that will fit into the chest. You might be able to fit a drill with a small grinding stone also but i prefer the Dremel. Mine has the remote cable that allows you to use it like a pencil for greater detail work. Use brake cleaner on a rag and wipe down the walls of the cam chest and the mask it off especially the cam bearing holes. You dont want and shavings or ground metal getting into the motor. Clean the chest out well before reassembly.

    As for the pump screws, the reason you must remove them is for alignment purposes when reinstalling the cam plate. The plate can float a little and gets tightened down first and then the four pump screws can then be tightened. I believe they do this in case of crank run out.
    [​IMG]
     
  3. jwquinn

    jwquinn Member

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    Thanks for that. I've got the cable so I should be able to get into the cam chest without too much problem. Did you have to grind much off of the boss? I don't want to cause any weakness there.
     
  4. Slo-Ryd

    Slo-Ryd Junior Member Contributor

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    You may not have to remove any material at all but the clearance MUST still be checked. As the motor warms up and the metals expand, it could become a clearance issue. I'm thinking you will find there is just enough clearance when you go to install them. IF you had to remove anything, it shouldn't be much and won't pose a problem. As long as you don't go willy nilly and start grinding away more than you need :s
     
  5. jwquinn

    jwquinn Member

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    Ha! No way. I will be taking my time, and I'm hoping that it's just a check and I don't have to grind anything inside the case. I'm not real thrilled removing any metal within the engine.

    The other thing I noted is that the instructions refer to 583G cams, which are the easy start cams. I've got the 583C cams, which are the non-easy start version. I'm not sure it matters, but there it is.
     
  6. dolt

    dolt Senior Member Contributor

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    Check the clearance but I can tell you that there is plenty, no machine work required. Not only the pinion bearing boss clearance should be checked but also the clearance at the bottom of the lifter bores.

    You can do it with a dremel but using the proper cutter is a much better way to do it. When clearancing, the everything should be removed from the cam chest and the entire cam chest sealed off with duct tape, corks in the lifter bores and all the oil passages blocked as well.

    But, like I said, you won't need to do that with 583 cams.
     
  7. jwquinn

    jwquinn Member

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    Dolt - thanks for that. I wasn't overly concerned, and I'm glad it's not an issue.
     
  8. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    I also saw that the oil pump screws need to be removed, and that the guts of the oil pump stay in the cam chest, and the oil pump housing is integral to the cam plate. I'm not doing anything with the pump so I don't expect any problems. Anything to watch for here? Thanks all![/QUOTE]

    Re check the oil pump alignment and follow the manual torque specs:s
     
  9. jwquinn

    jwquinn Member

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    Re check the oil pump alignment and follow the manual torque specs:s[/QUOTE]

    Jack - thanks. The S&S video shows the pump being pulled and not removed from the cam plate. I'm going to leave it in the chest - I don't have a reason to pull it.