Cam Exchange, Bolt in??

Discussion in 'Touring Models' started by danthern, May 6, 2015.

  1. danthern

    danthern Active Member

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    Morning Gents,
    In order to rule out the cams as the source of an engine noise I want to do a swap of the 255s that are currently installed with another set of the same. The bearings and tensioners have recently been replaced when the oil pump was replaced. I just want to pull out the old, in with the new. What do I need to consider? I assume that I don't need the 100 dollar tool that pulls the bearings since I'm not changing them. The main points seem to be the base circle and lining up the dots. I'm fairly handy with wrenches and have been through the top several times but the cams are uncharted territory. Any help or direction to links pertaining to this topic would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance,
    Dan
     
  2. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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  3. dolt

    dolt Senior Member Contributor

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    You didn't mention if there were other modifications to the motor, so any comments anyone might make may not apply lacking that information.

    I seriously doubt that the cams are the source of the noise which I assume, perhaps incorrectly, is valve train related.

    I suspect that the noise is lash in the valve train which could be the result of sloppy factory tolerances in the valve train components or a lifter that is bleeding down.

    A set of adjustable pushrods may be the solution and one I would try before changing cam sets. Adjustable pushrods will take up any slop in the valve train stack up height that may be the result of sloppy factory tolerances. If adjustable pushrods doesn't solve the problem, I would be looking at lifters.:coffee
     
  4. Bodeen

    Bodeen Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

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    I agree with Dolt. It would be highly unlikely to get noise form the cams themselves unless there were something really bad wrong with them.
    Does it already have adjustable P/R's?
     
  5. danthern

    danthern Active Member

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    Here's a list of what I've replaced or had done...cylinders honed and new SE pistons, replaced rocker assemblies (complete with supports and shafts), adjustable push rods, lifters, throttle body, heads, exhaust gaskets, SE compensator upgrade, primary chain and tensioner, cam bearings and tensioners, tranny refreshed, oil pump, motor mounts, stabilizer link, rubber exhaust bushings, checked the drive belt, and I'm sure that there's more that I haven't mentioned. It's been in the shops of 2 dealers and 2 reputable local indys, no one can figure it out. It's a chirp-like noise that's audible on idle and pronounced on acceleration. The cams are the only component in the valve train that haven't been replaced. I got a good deal on a set of 255s so I want to install them if for no other reason, to rule it out as the source of the problem. She runs great, just has that annoying racket. I want to know the specifics of a quick in and out cam change, and of course, any other ideas that y'all may have....Thanks
     
  6. Jeff Klarich

    Jeff Klarich Well-Known Member Contributor

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    Someone recently had reported the same issue you're having and replaced everything he could to try and fix the chirping sound. For the life of me I can't remember what the fix was tho. Maybe do some research here on the forum and see if you can find the thread. It seems to me it was a couple months back.
     
  7. dolt

    dolt Senior Member Contributor

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    I understand your desire to change the cams to eliminate that as a potential source of the noise. After all you have done chasing the noise; I get it but will bet a six pack, the cams are not the source of the noise.

    Does the noise change at all in neutral? Does the noise change with the tranny in gear but clutch disengaged? Have you tried a stethoscope searching for the noise?

    As for the specifics of a quick in/out cam change; its pretty simple with adjustable pushrods. Collapse the tubes, remove the pushrods, get a pair of those magnet lifter holder so you don't have to remove the lifter blocks, remove the cam cover (catch the oil that will run out), remove the cam plate (with or without the oil pump-your call), swap cams, re-install with timing marks aligned, install the cam plate/oil pump, align the oil pump and reverse the process. Best to have the service manual handy and there are no special tools required.:coffee
     
  8. coopernicus

    coopernicus Junior Member Contributor

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    There is a video on you tube from s&s cycle that shows how to do a cam change.
     
  9. danthern

    danthern Active Member

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    It was probably me
     
  10. Jeff Klarich

    Jeff Klarich Well-Known Member Contributor

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    Disregard my post, I found the thread and you were the original poster back then.