Cam Chest woe's

Discussion in 'Engine, Fuel and Exhaust' started by SEroadking, Jul 11, 2013.

  1. SEroadking

    SEroadking Member

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    I am having trouble coming to grips with a statements that I read in these forums and it goes (w/ some variation) like this

    "You can destroy a oil pump, or ruin a bearing in the cam chest and if you flush the cam chest and remove the oil pan to clean it, you can go back together with the repairs in the cam chest and not worry about the crank, jugs and heads."

    Now did I just get lucky with my 185 and 190 ccp's having no more than 20 miles since I first heard the knock/ticking sounds. Or is there really truth to those comments?
     
  2. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    HMMMM, I dunno about that statement. I will tell you this when I found brass in my oil it was already to late for the bottom end, my pistons, barrels and oil pump ALL went south, that said flushing the oil pan while the bottom end repairs are done is a MUST
     
  3. Breeze3at

    Breeze3at Well-Known Member

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    There's two kinds of scenarios, it will be ok, or it's gonna grenade. I'll post the 2 that I have actually seen. On the way back to Florida from Sturgis in 2006 my buddy's 2000 Electra Glide started making noises in Arkansas, he kept riding it (2 up & loaded) until it quit running in Daytona, FL. Pulled it apart and there was nothing left of the tensioners, springs etc. except pieces of alum.,steel, and plastic. He removed the crank shaft plug and thoroughly flushed every thing he could get a solvent hose to. Several times. He put a gear drive cam in the bike. He did a couple of low mileage oil changes after reassembly. That bike now belongs to his son, and has not missed a beat in 7 years and probably 35K miles.
    My '92 Evo Dyna started popping through the carb. @ 20 K miles after I'd put a high lift fast ramp cam in it. It took me a week of local riding to finally pull it apart & find the bearings completely gone from the roller of the front lifter. Metal pieces were everywhere in the cam chest, and probably the crank case. I rinsed it out good, put a new cam & lifters in and also did a couple low mileage oil changes. That was in 1996 and 40K miles ago, it has not given me another problem. My oil looked like metal flake black paint for about 4 oil changes.
    I wouldn't recommend anyone doing what we did. We both did it thinking we were going to be buying new engines soon.
     
  4. SEroadking

    SEroadking Member

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    If we see that the damage requires the cases to be split, then I will go thru everything in the transmission too. Seals are cheap and easy. And swing arm... and....
    But, it will be hard not to add a quarter inch, or more, to the wheels. My head and cam setup is capable of many more inches. I am not sure if I will need longer jugs and rods, I'll need to do a bit of digging on that.
     
  5. SEroadking

    SEroadking Member

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    One of the biggest selling points of the TC platform, for me, was the improved oil system. I found the front cam outer bearing hailed out. I saw a small piece of cup shaped cage steel about 1/8 X1/8" square, in the bottom of the cam chest and not one other piece or contamination of any kind. I am very surprised. So, I got a lot of expensive parts to replace.
     
  6. dolt

    dolt Senior Member Contributor

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    What are you talking about? "Longer jugs and rods"???? Please explain.:newsmile058:
     
  7. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    Indeed, is he building a stroker? I guess I too missed this 1, Good catch by you dolt
     
  8. SEroadking

    SEroadking Member

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    I got trash everywhere.
    It's case splittin' time boyz! At least I have the best TC cases and crank that Harley made. If not for that I do not think I would bother. And I have my wife convinced that the best way to tighten up all of those contaminated surfaces and loose fits is to expand the motor and add inches. She agrees!
    But, I think once I have everything pulled apart I will push this bike off of the lift and get busy on my XS650 restoration.
     
  9. SEroadking

    SEroadking Member

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    All of the 93" shovel engines that I have built started with Delkron cases, T&O wheels, .200 over S&S jugs and rods. And my cylinder heights were machined per piston and head cavity.
    I have no stroker experience with TC platform, so I will have to check into the jugs and rods issues, if there is one. I doubt that I would add very much, 1/4 I am guessing.
     
  10. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    :s Very good choices for big inch shovels, I had experiences with S&S side winder kits:D Another quality big inch kit