Cam chain tensioner shoes

Discussion in 'Other Service and Maintenance' started by bill-h_, Aug 7, 2009.

  1. bill-h_

    bill-h_ New Member

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    It's time to change out the Cam chain tensioner shoes on my wife's 2003 FXDL.
    And this looks as it will happen again in the next 35,000 miles.
    I need a few tools to change the shoes out.
    H-D 42313 Cam chain tensioner unloader
    H-D 42314 Crankshaft/camshaft sprocket locking tool
    H-D 33443 Alignment tools (2)

    If anyone would like to part with theirs for a reasonable price please contact me.
    Thanks,
    Bill
     
  2. TQuentin1

    TQuentin1 Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

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    Bill,

    IMHO, you don't need all that stuff. Instead of the 42313, just use some large channel locks to rotate the tensioner away from the chain and then stick an Allen wrench or small Phillips screw driver in the hole to hold it back. On 42314, you can use anything wedged between opposing teeth on the gears to stop them from turning. But the tool is handy. See here: 99-06 T/Cam Engine

    The 33443 alignment tools are the same as the old EVO lifter block alignment tool. But you can buy the alignment tools on line for about $15. See here:

    Aftermarket Harley Davidson Motorcycle and Custom Parts and Accessories - Debrix Cycles - www.debrix.com

    TQ
     
  3. renegade99

    renegade99 New Member

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    Have you looked in to the screamin eagle Hydraulic tensioner kit? it's more money but it will last longer than your orginal mechanical tensioner.
     
  4. kemo

    kemo R.I.P

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    You should also change the inner INA bearings and use the Torringron type of bearing. That will be another 2 tools that you should have in your box of tricks.
     
  5. TQuentin1

    TQuentin1 Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

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    Absolutely second what kemo says here. Don't leave home without it (changing them that is!!).

    TQ
     
  6. Elmosac

    Elmosac Active Member

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    If you fix it correctly, you won't be doing this again - ever!

    Ther is a reason the shoes are failing, becasue the chain was manufactured with sharp edges. The dealer should know what I am talking about. The dealer by me has a "kit" set up with all the parts needed to fix this once and for all. I have 30K on my 07 FLHR and I recently pulled the cam chest off to inspect the shoes. HD fixed the shoe problem with the 07's and guess what? No wear at all at 30K! Don't replace the the shoes, fix the problem, your chains.

    Elmo
     
  7. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

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    That is an interesting thought...I was wondering why the shoes failed for some very quickly while others got better than 40,000 miles on theirs. When you got the new chain and shoes was there a noticeable difference in the edges? One would have thought the old chain would have worn just a bit so it would at least match the new one regarding the edges of the plates. I will look into that though...
     
  8. TQuentin1

    TQuentin1 Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

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    Hmmm?!

    Your '07 came stock with the roller chains and hydraulic tensioners configuration. Prior to '07 (except on the Dynas which were the test bed in '06) the twin cams had the silent chain set up with mechanical (spring loaded) tensioners. There is no way to "fix" the chain set up on the pre-'07 models unless they do the roller chain conversion or do away with chains and go to gear drive.

    TQ
     
  9. johnnyreb

    johnnyreb New Member

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    Hey just wondering about the bearing pullers. Are there any way to get these inner and outer cam shaft bearings out with spending a fortune on the pullers? I have an 2004 ultra with the big bore kit installed new when i purchased in 04. I have 75,000 and the oil pressure started bouncing around. Thanks to this web site pretty sure of whats wrong. Just tackled the stator, wasn't bad at all thanks to this website! any feed back would be greatly appreciated.
     
  10. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    I have never replaced those exact bearings before but I have replaced similar caged needle bearings like them. Taking them out is 1 thing. Getting the new ones installed is another. The cage or shell is very fragile and easily distorts. You can't hammer or bang on them at all. They need to be pressed in with a smooth straight (perpendicular) motion. Hard to do with common hand tools.