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Cam Chain Tensioner removal

R

robotoroadracer

Member
I'm trying to get at the oil pressure relief spring on my 04 TC 88 motor. I need to remove the cam chain tensioner to get at the spring retaining pin. I've got the book out but I'm still missing something :31:. Pulling back the tensioner and positioning the pin through the holes in the tensioner side plates into the boss on the cam plate leaves the tensioner spring still loaded. What am I missing here? How do I unload the spring enough to remove the tensioner? Looking at the wear on the shoe, I need to replace it anyway.:cheers
 
Never mind all. A little more late night reading and searching for a thread turned up an old answer from glider to the same question. Now I just need to find the right tool....
 
Mr. Roboto,

I just used a big old crescent wrench to take the load off of what ever you are holding the tensioner away from the chain with. After you get the gears off, then unload the tensioner with the crescent wrench and you can remove it for replacement and then get the relief valve spring out. If the slider will not come out by itself, find a wood dowel that will just slide into the slider and put some paper towel or scotch tape on the end of the dowel so that it will be a "tight" fit into the slider. Ease it out of the hole so that you can clean it well. Also swab out the inside of the hole as well as you can with a long "Q-tip" and some solvent.

I assume you are going back together with the Baisley spring? I used the LMR-2 (I have a standard TC88) and get about 5-7 psi increase at all rpms. Just make you have the new spring compressed ABOVE the hole that the tensioner spring tail fits through when you install the tensioner. The roll pin should do this if you have the spring compressed when you put in the pin. Helps to have some extra hands just then.

TQ
 
TQ,
Thanks for the tip w/ the wooden dowel. That's about where I'm at right now, getting ready to pull the plunger (spring is out) and it appears to be stuck in the bore. I'm going with Zippers shim on a new stock spring which I believe is comparable to the Baisley fix. Thoughts?
 
Looks like it should work from what I see on J&P Cycles. Same issue applies about getting all that ABOVE the roll pin. Like I said up above, helps to have some extra hands (wife, girl friend, son or daughter). Worse case, you can ask your buddy for some help, but stand around shootin' the (EDIT) for a few beers then casually ask, "Oh by-the-way, can you hold this spring up in here while I mash the roll pin back in?"

TQ
 
Yep, yep, yep, got an extra set of hands to help (along with Feulings little tool) to help assemble. But the beer comes out after it's installed! Plunger came out a little stubbornly with a magnet. Cleaned up the bore and plunger w/ a little emery paper and cleaned real well. Plunger slides great, now. Plunger chamfer and bore seat looked good. Thanks again for the input.
 
Gee my buddies just show up at the garage, drink all my beer, offer crude insults about my mental and mechanical abilities, looks, etc. etc. and then leave...........
 
Re: Cam Chain Tensioner removal:eek:ne for TQ, Glider, Hobbet, etc.

I replaced the spring with a new HD part that I found to be approx. 3/32-1/8" longer than the original (I'm not surprised to see spring fatigue on the original based on threads I've seen here). I've also added the Zipper shim, now I am seeing oil pressure in the neighborhood of 48 lbs on the guage at idle with it climbing to 60 psi but not pegging the gauage at 4k rpm. Now, realizing that pressure switch and guage accuracy come into play, is this pressure excessive? Is this elevated pressure too much? I haven't had the bike on the road yet, wanted some opinions first. As an aside, the guage is rock solid compared to readings previous to replacing the spring. See oil pump bypass spring - Harley Davidson Community
for the original question. Thanks in advance.
 
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