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BUBBIE'S OIL PUMP Problem....

Bubbie, Sorry to hear of your problem. Just to let you know, the Moco has revised the crank runout spec on late model twin cams. It is no longer .012" as being bad. Don't have it in front of me, but if I remember correctly it is now .007"

Sounds more like TQ is on Target to me but thought I would let you know about revision on service bulletin just in case.

Well there you go, information narrowed down to 5 thousands of an inch.
Another precision input from THE MAN who I swear must have a usb stick going in the back of his head somewhere. LOL (Just kidding Hoop) Thanks for the info though, I try to record all this stuff while hoping I don't loose it.
 
Bubbie, sorry to hear of your problem. I would be looking at the crank run out, my neighbors bike did the same thing, The crank shifted and finally locked her up, Best of luck to you:s
 
Glider responded the very thing about the lack of oil suction and the bypass.. Our thinking here is all in sink..

I have to say it must be the suction/prime on the pump.. Never let it run more than a split second to see IF the oil pressure would come up in 30 seconds or so... Not my nature to run WithOut oil.

I feel the bypass made/makes the most sense.

Sucking air around a Loose pump OR?,,,,,is out as oil pressure would not stay high as it does, even at idle.. as it came on so quickly and I do watch the pressure gauge often..
My oil pressure has always been on the Top side and yesterday @75* out and 2 up, oil pressure was 36/40 at each session.. Never low,Up or Down from where it should be that I could find.. so that is the ONLY reason I felt comfortable running it home..

Gliders OFFER to tow me should of taken several days to get to me, 3000 miles away.. He is Fast but not That Fast, Just really wonder How fast he Would of made it here:D

He's probably looking for me out by the Pacific Ocean as we speak :bigsmiley6:

I'm Over Here Glider:newsmile048:

signed....BUBBIE
 
Bubbie, sorry to hear of your problem. I would be looking at the crank run out, my neighbors bike did the same thing, The crank shifted and finally locked her up, Best of luck to you:s

Jack, It could be but That engine is still SO SMooooooth and I want to doubt the crank,,, BUT???

It Was Intermittent , working one time and not the next..

Thanks so far for all the well meant and good post answers you have given me back..

thank you !!!

signed....BUBBIE
 
Glider is so fast he has probably been out there and back by now.
 
Glider responded the very thing about the lack of oil suction and the bypass.. Our thinking here is all in sink..

I have to say it must be the suction/prime on the pump.. ..........
I feel the bypass made/makes the most sense.

............. ... .. .

Well hoping it doesn't turn up the worst.

I have a couple of questions for you guys with more experience.

If the back of the cam plate and Oil pump where damaged from crank run out excess, would it be cheaper have the crank welded and trued or just buy a new crank ?

Also when you put in an add-later Cam what are things you should look for that would denote replacing cam plate bearing (bushing) before installing the cam (or are you supposed to do that regardless of bearing condition) ?
 
Well hoping it doesn't turn up the worst.

I have a couple of questions for you guys with more experience.

If the back of the cam plate and Oil pump where damaged from crank run out excess, would it be cheaper have the crank welded and trued or just buy a new crank ?
***
Cheaper to send out old crank IF crank is okay. The align, pin and weld better than a whole New crank...
BUT If I were to get a new crank I would send it out for the upgrade(weld)

Also when you put in an add-later Cam what are things you should look for that would denote replacing cam plate bearing (bushing) before installing the cam (or are you supposed to do that regardless of bearing condition) ?
***
Visual Condition of the bushings and the old cams (feel)...

IF a little Loose, Then Mic wear of bushing and IF out of tolerance replace them..? might be just as cheap to buy a new cam plate, todays prices are not a lot as they used to be...

ME on My bike..14,000 miles, still Felt Tight on the old So I Just put the new cams in..


signed....BUBBIE
 
would it be cheaper have the crank welded and trued or just buy a new crank ?

Even if you buy a New crank, add the cost of a "tig & true" also. If the crank is in your hand (new or used) it would pay to have it performed at that time,,,and be done with that issue forever.
 
BUBBIE,
You are getting good advice from the others here so I will just add my sympathy. Hopefully your warranty will cover the problem and you will be back riding soon.

When you get down here to AZ you should know that I do own a trailer so we have you covered here in Arizona. :s

Well I've taken $$ on my property Up Here and soon to head Down there..

Hopefully....by my Oct 1 BD..:D

I'll have my single bike and double bike trailer and a 12+ 2' O Hang U-haul trk I bought here so I should be covered with transportation but Drivers, That's another thing..:D

signed....BUBBIE
 
October is the start of the good riding season. As you know we ride all year but October is when it gets nice.

Looking forward to your move. :D

YES, NOT Planned Oct , just Lucky. Usually I am Not the dummy who goes to AZ and gets there during the Heat of things in MID summer. Especially getting Softened with all the cool and wet of another Un-Usual weather year up here. :newsmile055:

Looking forward to Az also and staying full time there.:newsmile036:

signed....BUBBIE
 
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