Broke on vacation please help fast!!

[DavesKystoms]

1999 sportster. Rode 500 miles today bike died 5 miles before destination. No fire at all. Only has fire when handle bars are turned left full lock. Have taken apart wireing and have found nothing physical. Does anyone have or know of a down loadable wire schematic?? Or any thoughts??
Thank you Dave

 

[Hoople]

Are you saying that this would happen:

Turn bars to extreme lock. Bike will start and idle. Everything is fine & normal. You now rotate the bars to the other extreme lock while engine is running and engine will die all on its own.

 

[DavesKystoms]

Yes Sounds crazy I know Is there any kind of tip over switch??

Just straighten handle bars

Oh and the light on the module flashes when engine is cranked but no fire either cylinder

 

[Hoople]

Yes Sounds crazy I know Is there any kind of tip over switch??

Yes there is a "Bank angle sensor" but I don't see how it would be tied into the bars.

Looking at the schematics of the 1999 XL1200,, I do not see a single normally closed switch on the bars that would cause this to happen. The "kill switch" is normally open so a break in that wire would not kill the engine. It would just prevent the switch from killing the engine.

Is there possibly a ground wire to carry over the front forks to the frame that may be broken?

Can you move the wires at the neck while the bike is running in an attempt to locate the bundle responsible for the engine dieing?

The only cables that bend with turning the bars are the:
Left & right turn signal.
Engine Kill
Horn
Headlight wiring
Starter push button
Hi/Low beam

Am I missing any others?

 

[DavesKystoms]

Isn't the kill switch grounding? could the kill switch wire be grounding somewhere on the ing side??

 

[Hoople]

Isn't the kill switch grounding? could the kill switch wire be grounding somewhere on the ing side??

Does not appear that way.

Looking at the schematic this is how it plays out.

Power is supplied from the ignition switch to a fuse. The output of this fuse (B+) goes to 1 side of the engine kill switch. This switch is shown as Normally Open. Therefore you would need to press the kill button in order to pass power forward pass the kill button switch.
If pressed, that power that now goes through the switch and feed:

1) ignition coil.
2) Ignition control module.

The entire setup would make more sense if the Kill Button was Normally Closed instead of Normally Open.
The way it shows on the schematic makes little sense.

It is possible there is a type-o on the schematic and the kill button is actually Normally Closed.

That would make the entire circuit logical. Power would always be feeding those two modules. A break in that wire would kill the engine. So a twist of the bars would do it.

Do you happen to have a voltmeter with you? I want to make sure the kill switch is not really normally closed and the schematic has a type-o.

 

[DavesKystoms]

No I don't but we are going to pick one up tomarrow. Any sugestions on wire colors, voltage, and continuity tests?

 

[Hoople]

Dave, the more I look at this schematic, that wiring on that kill switch has to be a type-o. It makes no sense the way it is shown.
This would be my plan if I was where you are.

Open up the cover switch on the bars and test the Kill switch to see if it is actually Normally closed.
If YES, then your on the road to an easy fix.

You should have 4 fuses. One of the fuses should have a Red/Black along with a Solid Black wire going to it. Do you see that fuse?

You should also have a Black /White wire that goes to the ignition coil. Do you see that wire?

 

[DavesKystoms]

Yes I see both. Is the white/black coil power?

 

[Hoople]

Yes I see both. Is the white/black coil power?

Yes it is. But only if the kill switch was a type-o.

Perform the following if and ONLY if the Kill switch turns out to be Normally Closed and not Normally Open as the schematic implies,

Place a jumper wire between that black wire on the fuse and the black & white wire of the coil. This will also keep the integrity of the fuse and it's protection.

This will effectively bypass your Kill switch located on your bars so you no longer will have an emergency kill switch during the time you have this jumper in place. Once you fix the broken wire in the neck area of the bars, remove this temporary jumper in order to restore your kill switch function once again.

I would also clean the fuse holder and both fuse ends on the above fuse. Any drop out of power related to that fuse will kill the engine on your bike. Even if it looks clean, clean the socket and fuse ends. Just do it as a precaution measure.

This jumper is only meant to get you going in a pinch. Repair the root problem as soon as you can.

Reply back with results. I don't get anything out of it unless you reply with some feedback.