Break in new cams

Discussion in 'Touring Models' started by 67wizard, Mar 22, 2011.

  1. 67wizard

    67wizard Junior Member

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    I have a 96 ci and am going to do the 103 upgrade with 255 cams. Questions I have.
    1. How do you or should I break in the new cams?
    2. How long after the new cams are installed should I wait before getting it on the dyno? Or maybe I should say how many miles should I put on?
     
  2. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member

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    You DON"T need to break-in cams. Use plenty of assembly lube when you put them in.

    The 103" pistons/rings need to get the Break-in....

    I would do the **30/60/30 times TEN in third gear and then ride it normal after that... change oil and filter at 500 miles.. LOOK for "**Gliders break-in on new motor".

    I would not dyno until it has 500 miles on it... JUST My Way..

    some dyno the break in but I don't.. I ride my bike.

    Hope you Plan to have relief valves put in at the time the heads are off...

    The 103" / se 255 cams could use them, It saves on the kick-backs after fueling and the higher compression developed by the conversion to 103" needs them..

    Read around and you will see the MANY builder Who will agree with me..

    You'll thank me later and if you don't put them in you will wished you did.

    signed....BUBBIE
     
  3. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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  4. bigjohn

    bigjohn Member

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    Yes do the comp releases. You will be glad you did when starting the bike when its hot.
    Dont forget to do the procedure for sealing new head gaskets. I believe S&S had a good step procedure. Off the top of my head its idle the bike for 1 min or 100 Degrees, let it cool and then 4 mins or 185 degrees then let it cool. You did that like 3 times. I use to have it wrote down in my shop manual I will look for it.
     
  5. ultra...good

    ultra...good Banned

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    These are the instructions that came with my S&S pistons that I put in my ironhead. I am still on step F.

    A. Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. During this time check to see that oil pressure is normal, that oil is returning to the oil tank, and that no leaks exist.

    B. Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the touch

    C. After engine has cooled, start up again and allow the motor to build some heat. Engine should be run no longer than three to four minutes. When the cylinders become warm/hot to the touch (approximately 150°) shut the motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow the same cautions as for the initial start-up, and continue to watch for problems.

    D. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each successive time it should take slightly longer to warm up and you can increase the temp slightly each time (+10°). You can be more liberal each time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Don’t be too concerned with final carb settings at this time because idle speed and mixture cannot be correctly set until the motor reaches full operating temperature. The motor should not reach that temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine temperature to become excessive. After the motor has cooled to room temperature for the final time you are ready to start the 500 mile engine break-in process.

    E.
    The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Engine damage is most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary the engine speed. Do not lug the engine. We recommend changing the oil at 50 miles.

    F. The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph. Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not lug the engine. Vary engine rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles. Lugging or running engine prematurely at sustained high rpm may result in damage to pistons and other engine components. S&S® voids its guarantee if engine is not broken in properly.

    G. For the balance of the first 1000 miles the motor can be run in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and motorcycle can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine: no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer towing or sidecar operation.

    H. After 1000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and adjustment. Change the engine oil. Motorcycle can now be operated normally.
     
  6. bigjohn

    bigjohn Member

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    thats it..thanks saved me from digging