Brake Fluid Contamination

[trvlr]

Haven't really figured out how to get rid of it other than bottling it and putting with hazardous waste collection...do not put in storm drains or trash!

:small3d018:

+1 on that. Here in Florida the waste disposal operations at the landfill will take hazardous waste - definitely take care of Momma Earth.

And on the subject of replacing brake fluid, do you HAVE to take it into the dealer to have the fluid replaced on ABS systems? If all you're doing is flushing out the old and replacing with new - does it still require that digital tech component? I always did the flush every 2 years on my old metric, but this is my first ABS bike, so have never done a fluid flush on an ABS.

 

[Jack Klarich]

:small3d018:

+1 on that. Here in Florida the waste disposal operations at the landfill will take hazardous waste - definitely take care of Momma Earth.

And on the subject of replacing brake fluid, do you HAVE to take it into the dealer to have the fluid replaced on ABS systems? If all you're doing is flushing out the old and replacing with new - does it still require that digital tech component? I always did the flush every 2 years on my old metric, but this is my first ABS bike, so have never done a fluid flush on an ABS.

If doing a total flush I would have the dealer do it, there are a lot of small valving involved and a scanner may be needed to energize them JMO, Brake fluid can be disposed of with motor oil, not anti freeze, that is a big no no

 

[trvlr]

Will they let me watch and supervise the technician doing the work Jack? ....man I hate letting anyone work on my stuff anymore...the quality of work and attentiveness to detail is just gone...poof, like gliders poof button lol.

I think I'd rather let a quality independent bike mechanic work on it than taking it into a dealership service dept. I would have to think those guys pay a bit more attention to detai just because it's their lifeblood and they have to do good work or won't be independent for too long, but who knows...thanks Jack -

 

[Jack Klarich]

Will they let me watch and supervise the technician doing the work Jack? ....man I hate letting anyone work on my stuff anymore...the quality of work and attentiveness to detail is just gone...poof, like gliders poof button lol.

I think I'd rather let a quality independent bike mechanic work on it than taking it into a dealership service dept. I would have to think those guys pay a bit more attention to detail, but who knows...thanks Jack -

Some dealers will let you watch, ask your service manager, good luck on who ever you choose

 

[Hoople]

I really don't get it. Why even mix them at all. Just buy the fluid it calls for by it's part number and not worry about a thing.

I have seen bottles (not brake fluid) say it's compatible with such & such only to find out later it is NOT 100% true.. Why even take the chance. My book says DOT4. When the time comes, I am going to buy pure DOT 4.

 

[kemo]

I have to agree with you Hopple. Use the fluid that is recommended for your machine. It is labeled on the m/c cap.
kemo

 

[NEWHD74FAN]

Hoop and Kemo do have a point, I choose to use the same type and brand once I choose, and do not "mix". On my Katana it said DOT4, but if DOT5.1 had come out when I was using DOT4, I would have gone to DOT5.1 once I flushed the system. A higher boiling point is a benefit not to be ignored, if you are running a performance machine...JMO.

As for DOT5, there is not substitute for Silicone based brake fluid, has a higher boiling point, does not swell seals, boots or hoses so tolerances can be tighter...and is the only type for my Sportster, so check the master cylinder cap to be sure.

cAUTION: If you go to the chrome m/c and cover, make sure the label on it reflects the fluid you are putting in. Sometimes the cover and parts look the same but are not for your bike.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Dont know what it is with Dot 5, but I have seen it crystalize here in Florida, on my 97 FLHT, I would flush the system once a year just because

 

[Jonas]

I could use some advice on brake fluid changeout. I took my 2008 Wide Glide to my local dealer to have a free 56 point inspection conducted. The service department said the brake fluid was contaminated with water at 4%. They said 2% is maximum. I am not sure how they determine that, but the cost to correct is $100. The bike has only 2500 miles on it and is always parked inside my garage when not out on sunny days. Does anyone have experience with brake fluid contamination or how it can occur? Is it necessary to change out the brake fluid?

Bike sales must be slow. I wonder how many people walkout of the 56 point inspection without spending a couple hundred dollars.

 

[1Gopher]

Not to change the subject I hope, but my 2000 super glide was contaminated at one point on the foot brake master cylinder and now I have problems with the brake light not coming on. I have replaced the switch twice and it goes out in about 6 months time. I checked the last swith and it shows good, ohm meter testing. I never had a good flushing, could this be causing my swith and light not to work?