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Brake Bleeding

The air is drawn in past the threads of the bleeder
Mityvac is good for drawing through a change of fluid but for final bleeding
For final bleeding clear plastic tube on the bleeder apply pressure to the brake open the bleeder let fluid come out close the bleeder then release the pressure on the brake
During the process watch the clear tube to see if there are any bubbles in the fluid once no bubbles top up the master cylinder
Care has to be taken when bleeding if the brake pads are part worn when topping up the master cylinder leave sufficient level of fluid to accommodate new brake pads otherwise next time you push the pistons in the master cylinder may overflow it is not good to get glycol based brake fluid on paint as it is a very good paint stripper

Brian
 
Word is now that if your scoot has ABS you need to bring it in to the dealer so they can hook up the computer to bleed the brakes. A computer to bleed brakes! What is the world coming to?!!!
to oversimplify you can bleed and change the fluid in the "brake system" the computer is needed to open the "abs system" so it can be bled. Otherwise the sucker remains closed and holds on to the old fluid. That abs block apparently costs big dollars.
 
You need a good tight seal on the bleeder with the Mitey Vac. I use mine all the time. I also continue to pump while I tighten the bleeder down. Letting off with a poor fitting will let air back in. I also clamp the lever or foot pedal down tight after bleeding overnight. It helps pressurize the system and if there's any air in it at all that will find it.
 
You need a good tight seal on the bleeder with the Mitey Vac. I use mine all the time. I also continue to pump while I tighten the bleeder down. Letting off with a poor fitting will let air back in. I also clamp the lever or foot pedal down tight after bleeding overnight. It helps pressurize the system and if there's any air in it at all that will find it.

Thank you for your advice. I am going to change the front brake pads on Harley Davidson. And I'll do this for the first time. And it is really useful to learn how to operate with them including bleeding.
 
Thank you for your advice. I am going to change the front brake pads on Harley Davidson. And I'll do this for the first time. And it is really useful to learn how to operate with them including bleeding.
One thing I forgot to mention is when bleeding brakes build pressure and use the handle of a screwdriver to tap repeatedly on the lines starting at the lowest point and moving up towards the reservoir. This helps move out any small bubbles that may cling to the inside wall of the brake lines. Kinda like you see nurses do with a syringe to remove air. Also don't forget to clean the caliper pistons really well. There's videos on how to do that. The shoestring method works well but I just cut a clean rag into strips.
 
You need a good tight seal on the bleeder with the Mitey Vac. I use mine all the time. I also continue to pump while I tighten the bleeder down. Letting off with a poor fitting will let air back in. I also clamp the lever or foot pedal down tight after bleeding overnight. It helps pressurize the system and if there's any air in it at all that will find it.
I put a little silicone on the nipple and no air leaks.
 
As in RTV?
I use silicone paste. just a little dab on your finger to put on where your tube touches the nipple and it seals right up. Also have used a little dab of vasolene. When I used the vacuum pump that you have to manually pump it was more of a problem but now I use the pump you hook up to the air compresser so not so much a worry.
 
I use silicone paste. just a little dab on your finger to put on where your tube touches the nipple and it seals right up. Also have used a little dab of vasolene. When I used the vacuum pump that you have to manually pump it was more of a problem but now I use the pump you hook up to the air compresser so not so much a worry.
Gotcha, thanks for the tip! I need an automatic vacuum bleeder now! LOL!
 
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