bolt in cam for my 07 lowrider

Discussion in 'Dyna Models' started by grappleman, Jun 28, 2012.

  1. grappleman

    grappleman Member

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    Hi all,
    be awhile since my last post, my bike now has 13K on it. I have done the stage one and tfi. loved the results. I am now looking for a bolt in cam to get a little extra out of my bike. I will eventually do motor work to it, but right now my thoughts are as follows; I just don't have time to do the work myself currently, am not totally sure if i am going to go to a 103 with heads and throttle body, or do the 107, figure i may as well wait until my bike is close to needing a tear down and do it all at once. ... with that being said I have the itch to put something new in the motor. I will be doing the cam change myself and I will stay with Chain drive. I am 30 and my riding style is all over the board but I like to keep the rpms high. although I love to drag race, do lots of roll on pulls also. So long and short of it I want the best of both worlds. ha. I have done lots of research, and I understand I will most likely be changing cams again when I do my motor upgrade. So what kinds of suggestions can you experts give me. I have read lots of good things about the Andrews and kuryakyn cams. I just need someone with more experience to guide me.


    thanks a bunch
     
  2. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member

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    SE255 Low Torque then then the 204's, has a wicked Lope:D then the SE211 but usually it needs some head work and compression done to benefit.

    the 211 will be a higher RPM range cam. the other two lower torque RPM range.

    Many others out there to choose from. 48 is a good cam.

    The way you ride says more like the 48.

    Use SE slender taper adjustable push rods and One of the cams (48) and you will be fine.

    You don't want to go too MUCH cam on NO build.. Stage one Now and the 48 :D Then later it will take to the 103 size motor and some head work doing BETTER Yet.

    signed....BUBBIE
     
  3. garystrat

    garystrat Banned

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    Grapple man...if it were me...I go gear drive, a bit whinny but no worries...that being said I'd do Bobby Woods prowler twg6 .510 lift .246 duration...lots of torque, roll on power and they're bolt in...while your in the cam chest go with feuling support plate as well as feuling hi-flo oil pump, some jims lifters and push rods... then when you do the top end, wiseco pistons (high Compression) SE or S and S heads...the front wheel WILL come up in 2nd... sure big inch sounds great, me I like being unique and leaving the stock cid...jmo
    the pictured exhaust will complete your hot rod...
     

    Attached Files:

  4. garystrat

    garystrat Banned

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    1 more point. big inch = more heat add oil cooler to that list...
     
  5. grappleman

    grappleman Member

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    excellent. thank you guys for the information. I have done all the reading about the oil coolers. I was hoping that being in the midwest and doing mostly highway riding and having a smaller bike I would be able to avoid the cooler, but im sure if I start ramping up the motor much it will be needed.

    I will just be doing the cam for now as I work full time and also run a tree business so time to work on stuff is very limited. Need to use all my free time to ride. Should just leave it alone and ride, but whats the fun in that.


    Joe
     
  6. garystrat

    garystrat Banned

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    last I heard the midwest is under a heat advisory...
     
  7. grappleman

    grappleman Member

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    yes we have been. but i have ridden many many miles in 100 degree weather in the midwest, and my bikes have never gotten over heated. a little bit of work for breather and exhaust and good to go. Thanks for the concern tho.
     
  8. grappleman

    grappleman Member

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    hi all,
    i have decided to go with the andrews 48 cam i believe. I have a question about pulling and installing the inner cam bearing. Read about some beaty tool that sounds interesting. and have heard people say that you can rent the blind puller from autozone. Then others have said that the blind puller is too small for the new TC 96 inner bearings. I have installed lots of bearings in lots of different situations. I am confident i can get my install done by putting bearing in freezer, and heating housing tapping bearings into place. but i would like some advice about getting the bearings pulled. or tips on pulling and installing would be greatly appreciated

    thanks

    Joe
     
  9. grappleman

    grappleman Member

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    bumb for my bearing question. hoping to tear things apart soon.

     
  10. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member

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    Thee larger cam engine side bearings are 1" the older TC had 7/8"

    I would say to borrow or rent a puller/installer,,,

    I use many Old School methods to remove and install. BUT,,,Use the newer Full Roller style bearings to replace the INA's.

    I do carefully drive them in with a hammer and the proper size machined driver for the ID of the bearings and the OD so it fits inside the motor case. (old cam will work and not damage the end of it IF you use a soft hammer)... If your driver you use doesn't have the machined collar to set them IN a little beyond Flush,,,,
    a small 1/32 to 1/16 thick washer fitting a tad smaller then the OD of the bearing on that driver sets the needed dimension IN from flush fit. Look first to see how the old ones are before you pull them.. DON't break off the Stop ring that is Part of the motor block casting that stops the bearing from walking IN on the flywheel and DON't Loose a needle bearing IF they come loose from the old bearing OD incasement.... COUNT ALL to make sure they are NOT in the far side and dropped into the crank area... (don't ask How I know this please) hard to fish out using a magnet...


    If you make a flat plate with the proper holes and use Stud Bolts to Push them into place, it works safer.:D

    Hope this helps a little.

    PS
    Good choice on that 48 cam.... IT will benefit your future build and matches your riding style.:D

    signed....BUBBIE