Bike is very hard to start

Discussion in 'Engine, Fuel and Exhaust' started by 67wizard, Jan 25, 2013.

  1. 67wizard

    67wizard Junior Member

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    After being on the road for say an hour or so and shut off the engine and sit for two or three minutes. When I try to start the bike turns over very slow and acts like it won't start. After I hit the starter the second ore third time it turns over good, fast and starts. It does this some time when I stop for gas and start the bike say within three or four minutes. I have had the comp replace with the SE comp. and starter clutch replaced a couple of thousand miles ago. I have 40k on the bike, a 103 kit and se 255 cams installed over 10k miles ago. seem to start ok then. It does this more in the hot weather but last week it was doing it again and the temps. in the low 60's. Any ideas? ?
    Checked the battery while starting voltage drops to about 10.5 volts. Its on a battery tender when not being ridden. Voltage about 12.5 without tender pluged in.
    Thanks
    Wizard
     
  2. Slo-Ryd

    Slo-Ryd Junior Member Contributor

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    First thing I would check would be the connections to make sure they're clean and tight. If that checks out you could try to do a load test on the battery if you had a load tester. How old is the battery? That voltage seems low. If it's a few years old, it may be on it's way out.
     
  3. r_k_dragon

    r_k_dragon Active Member

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    So you think it's a heat thing! You use the stop run or just turn off the ignition? Will it start normal if you just start it, let it run say 10 seconds, stop run, start run and start it up again? So, it that's good for a couple of starts, then whatever it is, is being affected by the heat! I'd go with BIGAL66 and check all the connections and if it's the original, I'd say, go for a new one.:breakdance:cheers
     
  4. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    Load test that battery first:D
     
  5. 67wizard

    67wizard Junior Member

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    Checked the battery while starting, voltage drops to about 10.5 volts. Its on a battery tender when not being ridden. Bike is 2010 battery is original battery. Maybe its getting ready to poop out on me. Strange thing it starts fine in the morning, even when cold. If it sits for awhile it starts fine. Ride to a gas stn about 10 minutes away turn off run switch then ignition switch. Put in gas and turn on ignition switch turn on run switch wait till its goes throught its cycle then hit start, some times its ok.
    I guess I can take it to the shop for a load test. $$$ I don't have to spare right now.
     
  6. heritagedave

    heritagedave Member

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    is it possible that it is so warm that it is vapor locking ?possibly flooding cylinders
     
  7. 67wizard

    67wizard Junior Member

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    Vapor locking was one of my thoughts.
    With a load test what should be the voltage reading ?
     
  8. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    It all depends on the amount of load applied across the battery. If you apply 150 amps for 15 seconds, the voltage should not fall below 10.0 volts. (Those are my own numbers, not by the book). Cranking amperage of these bikes when stock is about 135 to 145 amps. You should be able to crank an engine for 15 seconds..

    You never said if this problem just started one day,, or started when the cams & pistons were installed. I would check the cranking compression with a gauge when hot (you said nothing about having ACR)

    What type of meter are you using for these voltage readings.
     
  9. 67wizard

    67wizard Junior Member

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    Its has always been a little harder to turn over after the kit was installed, I am use TTS Master Tune. Using a volt ohm meter to check voltage drop when hitting the starter. If the compression was high wouldn't it remain high when I hit the starter the second time?
    Thanks for your replys.
     
  10. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Yes, I agree with you. I was just wondering if the compression is still below the 200 mark. Just a loose end question looking for an answer.

    As for the root cause for your problem, it almost sounds like a poor connection on the high current side of the starter. First time cranking will heat the loose connection. The heated connection expands and "tightens up" from the expanding metals. Now that the expand connection is tight, it makes a better connection and the starter works better..
    It may sound far reaching but I have seen it several times over the years.

    Check the voltage drop across the entire positive leg and then across the entire negative leg.