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Battery idiot light came on

Hoop, I appreciate it. I will do as you instructed tomorrow after work and let you know.
yes, the run/kill switch is in run while I'm reading the codes, I have to put it in run in order to start the sequence.
Hey,l I seriously appreciate your help with this, your a good guy for doing it. I got to get up early and it is already 900 PM here....gots to get some beauty rest. I'll update you tomorrow.
 
Mavagrand said:
l I seriously appreciate your help with this,
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No problem. Happy to help if I can. Just thought of a couple of other things.....

1) Would you happen to have a HID headlight or any other added items that would/could generate electrical noise which could impair the twisted pair serial buss.

2) Start the bike and check the voltage at the battery using a handheld meter with the engine running at 2000 RPM. Record the voltage and let us know what it is....

BTW,,, Sleep never helped my beauty. If it did, I would look like Brad Pitt.:)
 
Looking briefly through the above posts, a few things come to mind.

Have you checked the battery voltage at the time when the fan comes on at idle when the engine sputters to see if it has the required 9-10 volts minimum to run the systems.With the lights on which draw a bit of power from the system and then the fan kicks on , it may put the system on the edge of being too low to sustain proper operation of the ECM and in return it shuts down.

Second thought is that you mention that you removed the regulator to install the cooler, another light bulb lights here too. Is the regulator properly grounded now? Maybe supply a secondary ground to the regulator for test purposes and see if the problem still occurs. Cleaning the regulator after the oil bath shouldn't have an effect on it IMO because they are sealed (potted) units.

Quite often the simple things are just overlooked but worth checking on.
 
OK, here's the latest, in a quest to find this phantom electrical issue I began at the last spot I had touched prior to the problem arising. Thinking about what I had done, I remembered the bottom of my oil cooler was vibrating on the top of the voltage regulator. The VR is no longer installed like factory, it is now mounted where it run parallell to the ground and ismounted on an L shaped bracket on about two inch screws. Seeing the vibration problem I took a screw driver and gently pried down on the vr forcing it away from the bottom of the oil cooler about 1/4 inch. This was just before I got the idiot light problem. So today I removed the VR throughly cleaned the oil and dirt off the frame and lowered it's location enough to avoid interference with the oil cooler. Anyway, after cleaning and remounting the VR, I ran the WOW diagnostics...I now have a code P0562 (i think you mentioned this possibility Hoops), looks like the VR may have been the problem. Does this code mean I need to get a new battery?
 
Just rode the bike for 60 miles, the fan came on when it was supposed to and no new codes have developed. Hard to believe by simply cleaning the frame and screws that mount the VR to the bike could straighten this problem out but it appears to be the case.
 
glider said:
Second thought is that you mention that you removed the regulator to install the cooler, another light bulb lights here too. Is the regulator properly grounded now? Maybe supply a secondary ground to the regulator for test purposes and see if the problem still occurs. Cleaning the regulator after the oil bath shouldn't have an effect on it IMO because they are sealed (potted) units.
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Glider, You nailed it. Nice work indeed.
 
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