Bagger engine build
- Thread starter Jennmarr
- Start date
Jennmarr
Junior Member
Not yet. Just got everything back a couple of days ago. Been to busy pushing snow and fixing snowplows to work on motorcycles. I will keep this updated as it goes back together.
Anybody ever use a product called Quickseat by Total Seal?
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
"IF" that is an additive for the oil to help seat the Rings... I'd say NO to it's use.
We used to put in Bon-Ami in the oil on diesel motors that would not ring-seal ....THEN we tore them down to do a Total early rebuild from all that wear of the Bon-Am.
The best seal of the rings I Know of is the 30----60 mph method UP and down 10 times using 3 gear (look up method in this forum)...
Old School
signed....BUBBIE
dolt
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the update; you should be happy with the build. Arn is quite good at what he does and the 54 cams were a good choice; still in the profile family if the cams previously discussed. Arn probably has had good results with his headwork and those cams and the setup should be spot on. :s
As for breakin, everyone has different opinions about how to go at it but, done properly, rings should seat within the first 50 miles. Check out the Motoman break in procedure; it's about a good as any. Main thing to remember is that good and early ring seal requires heat and compression; you have to load the rings to get them to seat. Don't get wrapped up in heat cycles; just one or two and less than a minute just to check for weird noises, good oil pressure and no leaks. Then get the bike out on the road and ride. I would avoid the oil additive; break her in "old school".
I would suggest that you run a compression check after breakin so for two reasons; first to check calculated against actual and secondly to have a baseline for future reference.
Good luck and keep us updated.
As for breakin, everyone has different opinions about how to go at it but, done properly, rings should seat within the first 50 miles. Check out the Motoman break in procedure; it's about a good as any. Main thing to remember is that good and early ring seal requires heat and compression; you have to load the rings to get them to seat. Don't get wrapped up in heat cycles; just one or two and less than a minute just to check for weird noises, good oil pressure and no leaks. Then get the bike out on the road and ride. I would avoid the oil additive; break her in "old school".
I would suggest that you run a compression check after breakin so for two reasons; first to check calculated against actual and secondly to have a baseline for future reference.
Good luck and keep us updated.
Jennmarr
Junior Member
Bubbie and Dolt. Thanks for the advice and encouragement. Quickseat is not an oil additive. Total Seal is a piston ring manufacturer. This is a quote from their FAQ page: Quickseat is our patented dry film cylinder wall assembly lube. It’s
quite unique in that it is a dry lube this helps to prevent glazing of the
rings from the over use of assembly oil. It also provides outstanding
lubrication during the critical initial start up period helping to prevent
ring scuffing and cylinder wall burnishing.
I am not advocating for its use, just looking for some feedback. The guy that bored my cylinders recommended its use, but I had never heard of it.
quite unique in that it is a dry lube this helps to prevent glazing of the
rings from the over use of assembly oil. It also provides outstanding
lubrication during the critical initial start up period helping to prevent
ring scuffing and cylinder wall burnishing.
I am not advocating for its use, just looking for some feedback. The guy that bored my cylinders recommended its use, but I had never heard of it.
dolt
Well-Known Member
I know who Total Seal is and have used their rings; good products. I never use typical assembly lube on pistons/rings/cylinders; oil only. Typical assembly lube is used to minimize metal to metal contact during the initial break in period which is precisely what is required for good ring seal; metal to metal contact. I have not heard of Quickseal so cannot advocate one way or another but I will do some checking and see what I can find out; it may very well be the "bees knees". It is a Total Seal product and tested, so it is hard to believe that Total Seal would recommend a product that could sour someone on using their rings. If you used it, let us know results?:s
I hope you are not planning to use the Total Seal "gapless" rings?:small3d012: Have not used them myself but my local machinist who is a nationally recognized builder/head porter/racer does not recommend gapless for "street" builds.
I hope you are not planning to use the Total Seal "gapless" rings?:small3d012: Have not used them myself but my local machinist who is a nationally recognized builder/head porter/racer does not recommend gapless for "street" builds.
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Quick Seat Piston Ring Assembly Lubricant, by Total Seal, 2 Grams is a dry Piston Ring Powder that aids in piston ring sealing and break in. This product is designed to be brushed into your cylinder walls (by hand, rub it in) during final assembly, and it fills the hone grooves during ring break in. This promotes quicker ring seating, longer ring life, and better leak-downs. It's cheap, and it works! 2g Tub. This compound is NOT abrasive, it is a substance that smoothes out the cylinder walls for an immediate ring-seal to promote proper ring break-in.
After honing and final cleaning of the cylinders, wipe the cylinderwalls with a lint-free rag using a lacquer thinner or brake cleaner. Then wipe the cylinders with a light penetrating oi, and wipe them dry with a clean rag (to ensure the crosshatch is clean).
Apply the Quick Seat with your finger to the entire cylinder. If the cylinder wall was clean the powder will turn the cylinder a greenish tint. If the powder turns the cylinder a black or silverish color, the crosshatch was still dirty, and you need to reclean the cylinders and re-apply.
Price: $24.95
Intersting product:s
After honing and final cleaning of the cylinders, wipe the cylinderwalls with a lint-free rag using a lacquer thinner or brake cleaner. Then wipe the cylinders with a light penetrating oi, and wipe them dry with a clean rag (to ensure the crosshatch is clean).
Apply the Quick Seat with your finger to the entire cylinder. If the cylinder wall was clean the powder will turn the cylinder a greenish tint. If the powder turns the cylinder a black or silverish color, the crosshatch was still dirty, and you need to reclean the cylinders and re-apply.
Price: $24.95
Intersting product:s
Jennmarr
Junior Member
Dolt, I am not using their rings at all, and I had not decided yet about the Quickseat. Probably be a couple more weeks before I get the motor back together. It was -22 here this morning and I had to plow the driveway again this evening. More snow forecast for this weekend too.
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
Jack actually made it Sound Good... I'll still do mine a little DRY. Old School worked really WELL for me to this date.
The CLEANING of the grit OUT of the cylinders is Very-VERY Important.
I like the Dryness of that product and the color changes it shows...
Oil Soaked pistons and rings allow a lot of CARBON that make matters worse on a new engine build...
Like said here and elsewhere: :newsmile079: ......Glazing the cylinder walls IF too much oil is used and No early ring seal achieved...
signed....BUBBIE
The CLEANING of the grit OUT of the cylinders is Very-VERY Important.
I like the Dryness of that product and the color changes it shows...
Oil Soaked pistons and rings allow a lot of CARBON that make matters worse on a new engine build...
Like said here and elsewhere: :newsmile079: ......Glazing the cylinder walls IF too much oil is used and No early ring seal achieved...
signed....BUBBIE
dolt
Well-Known Member
Dolt, I am not using their rings at all, and I had not decided yet about the Quickseat. Probably be a couple more weeks before I get the motor back together. It was -22 here this morning and I had to plow the driveway again this evening. More snow forecast for this weekend too.
I don't see any harm in giving it a try but, if you do, use very little oil on the rings and skirts. A drop or two on each ring and a drop or two on each skirt; the oil will get there pretty quick.
I don't use much oil when assembling a top end. The more important task is cleaning the cylinders and rings as they will both will be covered with machine grit that you cannot see. I use dishwashing soap/hot water to clean the cylinders and rings. It usually takes 4-6 passes befor I can wipe the wall with a white cloth and have it come away clean; no black or grey color on the cloth. Then I coat all with WD40 as the cylinder walls will start to rust immediately. When ready to assemble, more WD40 and very little oil on rings and skirts.
I also use Shell Rotella 15W30 for break in; 100 miles and dump but keep filter; 500 miles dump oil and change filter then run whatever you want. JMHO.