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Bad regulator? Starter clicks, why?

Thanks for the replies. Going to get a new regulator.

Anyone know a good place to buy a regulator?

I need the high output regulator cause I have the Ultra with the EFI.

Harley wants over $200.

I suggest buying the HD VR. Yes you need the high output (amps) charging system VR. Try Zanotti's for a better price. You will need the P/N on their site to get a quote.

TQ
 
Ok, I changed my regulator and the starter relay.

Rechecked the new regulator and did a current draw test. Still showing a high volt draw. Talked to a mechanic and he thinks my old regulator was not bad. He thinks I have some other electrical problem.

So any ideas from this forum would be great.

When I unhook the negative battery cable and put my meter set at 20V in between the negative battery post and the negative battery cable I get a reading of 11.9V. I reattached the negative cable. I then checked the positive cable the same way and got 11.9V.

While I did this above test, my bike was off. Nothing was on. No extra lights or anything. I know there should be a mV draw, but not his big of a Volt draw.

This is why my battery is draining and I can't start the bike when it sits for a couple of days.

Any ideas on what or where or how to check for this voltage draw???????
 
And the bleed-back test showed no drain back through the VR, right?

How old is the battery? Is it a gel-cel or electrolyte fluid? Sealed or serviceable?

Take the battery out and wash it with soap and water, then a weak solution of baking soda and water, and then more soap and water. Charge the battery while out of the bike with a low amperage (2 amps or less) until you have a fully charged battery (close to 13 Vdc). Let it sit overnight and check the voltage. What do you get?

TQ
 
I have a Harley sealed battery. Bought it from HD dealer about 2 months ago. I took the battery out of the bike and charged it on a harley battery tender until fully charged. Had the battery load tested at O'reily auto parts, and the battery tested good.

Tomorrow morning I am going to get a different meter from a friend. See if my meter is bad.

Will clean my battery and run some more tests.
 
Ok, i messed up when I did some of my testing. I don't know much about this electrical stuff, so I am trying to wing it.

I had the meter on Volts DC when checking my regulator and doing the current draw test. Didn't realize that I had to check Amps or miliAmps.

My friend had a different meter and had the one tester with little light bulb in it to check if the power lights the light bulb(not sure the technical name of this tester).

So here my new test results.

My current draw test between battery cable and battery post was 13 mA with everything off. Is that ok? Too high? Not sure what is acceptable range for current draw.

With the light bulb tester between the battery cable and the battery post, it didn't light up.

Reattached the battery cable. With the light bulb tester between the negative cable and the pins on the regulator it didn't light up.

I guess I am trying to figure out if I have too large of a current draw while the bike is sitting from day to day that may drain the battery.

I am going to hook up the battery and check my battery voltage. Then I am going to let the bike sit and check the voltage again tomorrow and see if the voltage dropped and how much.

I want you guys to know I appreciate all your help and input.
 
My current draw test between battery cable and battery post was 13 mA with everything off.

If you Really have 13ma of current flow with the key off, that is Great. At that rate it would take appox 1,450 hours (60 days) to drain a fully charged/good battery.

I would have accepted even 50ma as a passing grade.
 
You should be able to do the Bleed-back test on the VR by checking each pin (on the connector that goes to the STATOR plug) to known ground (battery negative terminal will do!) with DVOM set at 12 or move Vdc. Any voltage on either pin indicates a bad VR. Depending on the problem, I have seen this anywhere from a few volts to almost a dead short (11.5 Vdc)!

TQ
 
If the air pressure in the tyres is good, our next question would be have you had the brakes tested lately? I know a chap that had a like problem, put new brake pads on and the byke started right away. Maybe some thoughts from "over the pond" may help you!!
 
If the air pressure in the tyres is good, our next question would be have you had the brakes tested lately? I know a chap that had a like problem, put new brake pads on and the byke started right away. Maybe some thoughts from "over the pond" may help you!!

Was this post supposed to be in a different thread? Doesn't seem to fit in.

TQ
 
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