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ATF in the Primary>

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while atf will work and i have posted this before .. it doesnt have the cling propertys of regular oil even just using 20w50 is better.. atf is good for the clutch no doubt but not enough lube will carry onto chain and sprockets .. you must remember that ATF is usually run under pressure not in a sling operations..


Now anyone that has a 4x4 will say what about the transfer case they use atf there .. sure do for milage conserdations only a truly used TCase that has atf instead of gear lube will fail first the parts dont get as much lube since again there is no cling..
 
I have not use it in any '07 or newer bike,and not sure I would do to the changes...but there are thousands of Evos and 88in bikes that have run atf-f in the primary for years with no problems.I have run it in my '04 for the last 5yrs after a old school Harley wrench suggested it to me.He claimed the mobil v-twin I was dumping in there was over kill for the primary.ATF dissipates heat very well,a great lubricant for the chain and with no friction modifiers at all it makes for very smooth operation.Like some said when the Twin Cam was introduced a little over a decade ago,Harley dealers held seminars to convince guy's not to use Synthetic oil in the twin cam motors up until they brought out the Syn3...the Formula+ oil they sell today claims it's a Transmission lubricant and Primary CHAINCASE lubricant...It does not say anything about clutch lubricant...it claims to maintain coefficient friction to the clutch...and to lubricate the chain...In the last 15yrs I have found MoCo to one of the best snake oil salesman there is...Fishing lures are made to catch fisherman...not fish!
 
PEOPLE USED TO USE BACON RINDS in place of the RIGHT PART in model T's and the like...

SHORT MEMORY ?????

I REMEMBER A QUESTION on HDT asked about: ??? CAN'T FIND NEUTRAL ,,, CLUTCH PROBLEMS?? wont shift smoothly!

It turned out the newer bike?07 or up USED SYN3 in the chaincase.......

ALL HERE (most) recommended to swap out for either formal+ or go with a primary lube,,,,, I suggested REDLINE PRIMARY LUBE,,,,,

PROBLEM SOLVED: seamed the syn3 was causing the clutch to grab n hold,

SWITCHING TO A "MADE FOR THE PRIMARY LUBE" SOLVED THEIR PROBLEM...

REMEMBER WHAT I HAVE SAID: using SYN3 is a SIN!!!!!!!

MY WAY OR THE HIGHWAY!!! ON MY BIKES.(.)

signed....BUBBIE
 
What about the people who used synthetic oil (against HD recommendation) because it made the bike run cooler.? Now HD recommends it, and even came up with it's own line. They also put it in all three holes(same oil). Why use the same motor oil in the motor, transmission and primary?

The reason they didn't recommend it in the older bikes is basically because they were a looser engine and it would probably leak/burn the oil but the main reason is because they didn't SELL it at that time. They teamed up with Hugo Chavez and found they can make a killing on the profits from the synthetic oil and recommend it in all three (some dealers) because that's more oil they sell even thou it isn't the best by application for all 3 holes. You can usually tell the caliber of the dealer by asking if they recommend the syn 3 in the trans. If they do, find another dealer.
 
The ATF is not to save money. I know that is what the original poster posted. It is about the wet clutch.

Many makers of aftermarket clutches recommend ATF in the primary.

I think people just see ATF in the primary. Think that does not make sense:newsmile055:

Read up on it a little. You might be surprised. It is not fork oil.

Read line 6 in post #8
 
Oh my god wizard, what's a qt. of formula + $6.00 every 10,000 miles?
Even Harley's tech support back in Milwaukee has told me to run formula + in the police motorcycle primarys, not syn 3 because of the clutch. They are hard on clutches and a syn oil I don't believe is the thing to use for that reason. You can get by running a lot of things, key word get by, but I always try to fine the best, not always the most expencive, but the best product for the use, it pays in the long run. Auto trans fluid was developed for auto trans and formula + and other primary lubes were developed for the harley primary.
My humble opinion.
 
I wouldn't worry about what it would to my clutch or chain. the biggest expense to replace would be the stator. The stator is not too forgiving to oils that much and it does not take much for it to burn up and cause all kinds of problems. Its only a minor pain if you do your own wrenching (plus the cost of the new stator).....but if you rely on the stealership for all your service needs.....its gonna hurt your wallet.
 
OK, here is my opinion. I had a Chevy truck 4x4 automatic transmission that had very similar clutchs and a chain very similar to the primary chain in my Harley no to mention many ball and needle bearings. I ran tans fluid in the Chevy. I put red line in my primary and i can't believe the difference. It has the consistancy of automatic trans fluid.
 
It's amazing to me that some people think they are better engineers and designers than Harley Davidson. The engineers that built and designed these bikes recommend 20w-50 in all 3 holes. I am not an engineer, and for a company to recommend an oil of there own JUST to make $ is a little hard to believe. The company gives you a 2 year unlimited mileage on new bikes. Put 100,000 miles on what they recommendation and if anything goes bad they replace it.Old school guys need to come up to the 21 century. Metals are changing and so are the designs of motors and trans.Heavy viscosities are going away with new designs. I am not going to be very popular with some of you but this is just my option.
 
I like to use Mobile1 in all 3 holes. If you look back there is a pole that has 4 bikes with different oils in them. 1 bike had mobile1 in all 3 holes and did very well. ???????
 
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