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Anti-seize on muffler pipe flange?

As you may have read on another thread.
I used anti-seize compound on my exhaust flange bolts.
Ever since I cannot keep the nuts tight. They loosen off after only a few days. Then after several cycles of tighten/loosen by themselves the gasket is ruined. It's a viscous cycle (no pun intended).
I have even tried to clean off the compound and install new nuts.
I will NEVER use anti-seize on Flange bolts again!
 
Yes good idea, makes muffler easier to remove. I do this everytime... also on the exhaust bolts...
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Agreed!
I use it every time I change slip-ons.
Also good to use spark plugs. (Just a dab.)
 
Thanks for the insight, all!
I will be adding some "anti-seize" to the flange, but not the bolts on the compression clamp.
 
I use Wurths hi-temp anti-sieze on anything like that. On our race car we even used it on the pins that hold the pads in place on the floating calipers so they would move more freely and back off for less rotor drag. The stuff works.
 
As you may have read on another thread.
I used anti-seize compound on my exhaust flange bolts.
Ever since I cannot keep the nuts tight. They loosen off after only a few days. Then after several cycles of tighten/loosen by themselves the gasket is ruined. It's a viscous cycle (no pun intended).
I have even tried to clean off the compound and install new nuts.
I will NEVER use anti-seize on Flange bolts again!

Wow no way? Even after they were cleaned? Thats wild... I have never had that happen.
 
Been useing never sieze for years, I've changed mufflers on this bike like some change their socks, just a little on the flanges of the pipes makes them come appart very easy the next time they are removed, but not on the bolts as some here have said.
 
Wow no way? Even after they were cleaned? Thats wild... I have never had that happen.

Don't get me wrong. I think anti-seize is a great product. This was simply my experience with it. I wouldn't arbitrarily apply anti-seize to everything. Some bolts require loctite, some anti-seize others shouldn't get any treatment. I put exhaust bolts in the category of "no treatment".
 
From my understanding I will have to remove the rear wheel. In order to do that I to be able to slide the axel out on the left side. The muffle is directly in the way. Also, as I have V & H ovals the way the sit in relation to the axel nut is that the axel nut sits in a sort dent that is formed in the muffler. But it is on the "top side" of the muffler, such that it appears to me that if I were to try and remove the rear shocks and let the rear suspension drop, to give access to the axle bolts, the bolt still wouldn't clear the muffler.

Either way, I just found a crack in my y-pipe, so the exhast system is pretty much removed at this point anyway.

If my assumptions are wrong or you have a different idea, let me know.

(I think I have finally become a Harley Owner now that it appears everything is starting to fall apart! :bigsmiley24:)
 
I use high temp never sieze on the muffler to header slip joints. It will smoke a bit until the exhaust system is hot and vapor is burned off but it sure makes removal easier.
 
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