Another Compensator Installation Question

Discussion in 'Transmission' started by Dr. Dolittle, Aug 28, 2010.

  1. Dr. Dolittle

    Dr. Dolittle Experienced Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

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    So, in my other thread I described the ordeal in getting the old compensator nut off. Mission accomplished - finally.

    Now I've followed the instructions and installed the new rotor, shaft extension, disc springs, sliding cam, thrust washer, and sprocket retainer. Double checked that they're in the right order and nothing's slipped or binding.

    Installed the new screw and here's where I have a question that I need answered before I proceed any further and button up the primary.

    The instructions state:
    "Rotate the compensating sprocket to make sure there is a light pressure on the sprocket from the springs. No clearance should be felt. A slight rotation should be possible by hand with the transmission in neutral."

    I can rotate the sprocket but it's pretty tough and only moves 1/2 inch or so. Spark plugs are out so it's not an issue of fighting cylinder compression. No binding or unusual noises. I just expected it to rotate more. There's no in or out movement so I guess that's the "no clearance should be felt" part of it. Also, the whole assembly rotates - cam, rotor, even the screw installed last. Is that correct and normal?

    I just want to double check with the experienced minds here on the forum before I close everything up and hit the starter button for the first time.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Breeze3at

    Breeze3at Well-Known Member

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    Gosh; I want to help you get this back together, but I haven't done the compensator upgrade. Just my opinion/take would be: "slight rotation" is what you have. I would rotate the rear wheel a little at a time, and see if the "slight rotation" remains the same as the engine rotates.
    I'm only jumping in with "IF's" because I know you want to finish, and being Saturday, there may be a lot of riding going on.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 28, 2010
  3. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member

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    I think IF It Rotated any More it would be like the OLD One..

    Isn't the Reason for the new one is so It Doesn't rotate as easily...?? Just another I don't know for sure but I think you are there!

    BUTTON UP and go ride.

    signed....BUBBIE
     
  4. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Has the compensator Bolt been tighten to the 140 #s yet? Is so, then when you said "even the screw installed last." means that the crank was turning.

    Once that bolt is tight, the crank and the bolt become one. If you see a flat on the bolt move, the crank is moving.
     
  5. Dr. Dolittle

    Dr. Dolittle Experienced Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

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    Gosh; I want to help you get this back together, but I haven't done the compensator upgrade. Just my opinion/take would be: "slight rotation" is what you have. I would rotate the rear wheel a little at a time, and see if the "slight rotation" remains the same as the engine rotates.
    I'm only jumping in with "IF's" because I know you want to finish, and being Saturday, there may be a lot of riding going on.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Thanks, Breeze!

    I am planning on doing the "rotate the rear wheel" test but that has to come after i reinstall the clutch, primary chain tensioner, and adjust the clutch so I can put it in gear and do the test. That's the main reason I pulled the spark plugs.

    I do want to finish but I know if I try to hurry I will botch the job and only make it worse. That's why I keep stopping for a break and posting questions here before proceeding. Plenty of time to ride the next couple weeks as I am on vacation!

    This is the biggest project I have attempted and I'm constantly thinking I may have bitten off more than I can chew but I'm determined to see this through to completion. My only other option would be to trailer it over to my indy mechanic and pay him to finish it up but that is my LAST resort!
     
  6. TQuentin1

    TQuentin1 Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

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    Naaaahhh!

    You got it Doc.

    TQ
     
  7. Dr. Dolittle

    Dr. Dolittle Experienced Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

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    Thanks for the vote of confidence Bubbie!



    Hey Hoople - I've got 2 torque wrenches but neither one goes up to 140 foot pounds - that's a lot! I've tightened it as much as I humanly can - good luck to the next person who needs to get it off - hope it's not me!

    Your last comment makes sense about the crank and bolt becoming one. Yes, the flat on the bolt is moving along with everything else I mentioned. Gives me a new appreciation for how much torque it takes to turn this engine over and over.
     
  8. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Doc, if you have not put the primary cover back on, would you be able to measure for me how much torque it takes to break the crank from a stationary position? I would like to know what the parasitic drag of a 96 is when cold.

    It would help in starter, battery draw issues down the road.
     
  9. Dr. Dolittle

    Dr. Dolittle Experienced Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

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    Sure, I'll give it a shot after everything else is back together and installed and right before I put the primary cover back on. This should give you a better reading than if I did it now.
     
  10. gs34

    gs34 Junior Member

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    Sounds to me like you're good to go Dr. Some folks are not able to get any movement at all ot of the sprocket..some say about the same amount as you have.
    I would say...get on with it. Clutch basket & Chain...then the tension shoe...might just go ahead and adjust the clutch before you put the primary cover on.
    Lets go..yer burnin daylight!!!!!