Adjusting Pushrods

[84FXRS]

OK Jack as I understand,, the lifter has .200 travel , the pushrod should be adjusted to about .100 of that travel for best operation.
If you want to readjust an installed set of adjustables, you should need to pump up the lifters before adding adjustment, or am I misunderstanding something.

 

[TQuentin1]

OK Jack as I understand,, the lifter has .200 travel , the pushrod should be adjusted to about .100 of that travel for best operation.
If you want to readjust an installed set of adjustables, you should need to pump up the lifters before adding adjustment, or am I misunderstanding something.

You need to collapse the adjustable pushrods all the way (I take them out and clean the oil passage with solvent - make sure you mark which PR they are: FE, FI, RE, RI). Let the lifters expand all the way (probably has already happened, but go clean your PRs now). Reinstall the PRs in the cylinder you have picked to start on and have set the piston at TDC of the compression stroke. Adjust the PRs and let sit for a while until you can turn them easily with thumb and index finger. Button up the covers and rotate the engine to the next cylinder at TDC compression stroke. Do them. When you can rotate the PRs with thumb and index finger, button up the covers. Reinstall sparkplugs.

That's it!!

TQ

 

[Gator454]

Great Article, Thanks,
Gator

 

[BUBBIE]

OK Jack as I understand,, the lifter has .200 travel , the pushrod should be adjusted to about .100 of that travel for best operation.
If you want to readjust an installed set of adjustables, you should need to pump up the lifters before adding adjustment, or am I misunderstanding something.

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July 26 Old Post but I am back on to HELP...

MY first help post and GLAD to be back here on HDT.........

signed....BUBBIE
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Remember I don't want TROUBLE and any answer I give is JUST That My ANSWER.....


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Lifters Do Not need to be filled with oil... Soaking them in oil does little to get oil inside...

Lifters have a spring pressure to Hold them FULLY UP... If you take your time you Can Feel where that "0" lash starts... Not with a wrench but With Your Fingers adjusting out to "0".... THEN count the turns needed from there.
You'll feel Light pressure as the oil in the lifter is not full and the adjustment will work just as good as a full oil lifter... Just be careful to FEEL where "0" Starts... and Carefully Count...

On the 24 per inch, I never go Less than 3.0T to 3.5 as a good setting.
Just my way


Lifters do have about .200 of travel Most measure at .210 to .220......

On 24 threads per inch the MOST you can trust the Deepest adjustment is 4Turns.

That puts you at .166 and that is being close to the bottoming out you should ever go.

I am a believer to use More than the said 2.5 T on a 24per" pushrod...

I have had good response at 3T or 3.5T and Once when the lifters were worn out enough I went Deeper to the 4T and they were renewed back to life and quiet...

Note that I am NOT saying to go that deep but When I did, I had the SE255's in my 09 King sounding like new lifters and NO Problems were had.

Just Say'n What I Do...."NOT BY ANY BOOK":55:
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I AM VERY PLEASED TO BE BACH HERE CAPS INTENDED


signed....BUBBIE

 

[FLHTom1948]

thanks for the how-to; i'm doing a rebuild and my question is: with brand new lifters that i filled with oil from a pump oiler, how does that affect the 15 min. bleed down process? I would think that after a few days, the oil is still in the lifters (maybe not as much?). I'm thinking that as long as the lifter is in the middle of the .200" range of adjustment when on the high point of the lobe, all is good? Is it possible to visually see the lifter piston has moved down the .100"? I don't want to bend anything, so thanks for any advise. RE: Andrews 32 tpi, 3 turns PR adjustment. "Wait 15 min.s, or not?"

this explanation really helped me understand RE: wait 15 min.s or not, on this thread. I'm thinking that the 15 min. wait guarantees the oil is out of the lifter, even if filled with a pump oiler before installation. My engine is very hard to turn over in fifth gear, no spark plugs and jacked up; i have to use a prybar thru the rear wheel to move it, is that normal?

 

[glazier]

thanks for the how-to; i'm doing a rebuild and my question is: with brand new lifters that i filled with oil from a pump oiler, how does that affect the 15 min. bleed down process? I would think that after a few days, the oil is still in the lifters (maybe not as much?). I'm thinking that as long as the lifter is in the middle of the .200" range of adjustment when on the high point of the lobe, all is good? Is it possible to visually see the lifter piston has moved down the .100"? I don't want to bend anything, so thanks for any advise. RE: Andrews 32 tpi, 3 turns PR adjustment. "Wait 15 min.s, or not?"

when in doubt, wait 15 minutes. better safe then sorry. 15 minutes won't kill ya. gives ya time to drink a beer or two. (3 or 4 if you drink real fast)

 

[BUBBIE]

Think it this way....

After you adjust ONE valve, WAIT until YOU CAN freely turn that pushrod EASILY with your fingers Once you can turn Easily with your fingers it is ready to move on... If the lifter has missing oil....MAKES NO DIFFERENCE on the adjustment...

Find "0" lash is the important thing and proper positioning of the cam for adjustment....

After adjustment, It may turn easier and earlier than one that was Full of oil... Less oil in a lifter takes less bleed down time from My experiences...

Before you start the motor, I usually kick over the motor with plugs out for 3/4 seconds a few times, letting the oil fill the lifters...

IF you hear clatter (NOT CLANKING) after started and your oil pressure is UP,,, Only normal...

Giving it a Minute at idle and NOT Blipping the throttle,,,,,, is all I have ever needed to do to Hear the lifters Quiet down...

You can only Know the lifter is down after adjusting BY turning Freely after the adjustment... (valve will BE Closed then)

Lifters should Fill quickly... Once started and running...


signed....BUBBIE

 

[Slo-Ryd]

this explanation really helped me understand RE: wait 15 min.s or not, on this thread. I'm thinking that the 15 min. wait guarantees the oil is out of the lifter, even if filled with a pump oiler before installation. My engine is very hard to turn over in fifth gear, no spark plugs and jacked up; i have to use a prybar thru the rear wheel to move it, is that normal?

No it isn't normal. Without plugs it should turn over by hand. A little tougher to do on baggers, heritage softails, fatboys etc because the fender covers so much of the wheel, but i've never needed to use anything for leverage especially not a prybar. Perhaps the brake is really dragging or the belt tension is extremely tight? Something needs a closer look to see why you need so much force to turn it.

 

[BUBBIE]

No it isn't normal. Without plugs it should turn over by hand. A little tougher to do on baggers, heritage softails, fatboys etc because the fender covers so much of the wheel, but i've never needed to use anything for leverage especially not a prybar. Perhaps the brake is really dragging or the belt tension is extremely tight? Something needs a closer look to see why you need so much force to turn it.

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I AGREE with BigAl66...

I Would Have Stole the Words Right out of His mouth...:lolrolling

signed....BUBBIE

 

[Slo-Ryd]

FLHTom1948,
I would recommend putting the bike in neutral while on the lift and see if the rear wheel is still difficult to turn. That will help isolate whether its a problem with the belt or brakes vs something in the tranny, primary (chain) or motor itself that is creating the drag. Oh, and really make sure its in top gear when trying to turn over the entire drivetrain. It's extremely difficult to do in first gear:s