Adjust Clutch Lever freeplay
- Thread starter johnv50
- Start date
Delmar
Active Member
For what its worth…On my previous 2003 Sport and current 2001 King the clutch is adjusted very tight, it will disengage right as you begin to pull.
I both rented and Super Rode four different 2009’s, and with all of them the clutch had to be pulled almost all the way in to disengage. This took a while to mentally adapt, I killed the 2009’s at a start multiple times due to the clutch engaging with the slightest release.
If you recently traded-up to a new bike the clutch action you feel could be normal.
I both rented and Super Rode four different 2009’s, and with all of them the clutch had to be pulled almost all the way in to disengage. This took a while to mentally adapt, I killed the 2009’s at a start multiple times due to the clutch engaging with the slightest release.
If you recently traded-up to a new bike the clutch action you feel could be normal.
Porter
Junior Member
Just seeing if I understand this:
Please tell me where I am wrong. Sorry if this seems common sense to most of you. I am just trying to get an overview of the system in my head.
1.) The clutch lever has a fixed amount that it can pull the cable.
2.) The push rod, that pushes the clutch plate out, can only move limited amount due to the limit of the clutch lever (pulling the cable).
3.) The "free play" is in the cable housing. The cable length does not change except for a little bit of stretch as it ages. Adjusting the housing length with the expander bolt simply matches the cable length to the housing length with the limits of the "throw" clutch lever.
4.) The adjustment bolt (in the middle of the clutch pack) allows for compensation as the clutch plates get thinner from use. So technically, you would always be moving this particualy bolt in the "out" direction, over time.
5.) In general, if there is a 1/16" to 1/8" gap at the perch/housing interface the cable has nothing to do with where the clutch engages/disengages: that all comes from setting the bolt in the center of the clutch pack. The reason for having the gap is to not have the cable under constant tension, thus making the adjustment of the clutch more variable and putting additional strain on the components.
6.) If the clutch is adjusted so that just as you squeeze the lever, the plates disengage, you are more assured of complete disengagement for shifting, but you run the risk of having the clutch slip.
7.) If the clutch is adjusted so that the plates disengage close to the handlebar, the chance for the clutch slipping is negligable but you could devlop shifting problems due to the plates staying engaged.
Porter, you pretty much have it figured out. One thing that I do after taking out most of the slack at the clutch end and then minimizing the freeplay to near zero cold, but checking with the handlebar/wheel cut to the right. If you cut the bar to the left, you will have the 1/8" freeplay you seek.
Just a phenom that you should always check throttle, brakes and clutch performance lock to lock to be sure everything is setup properly before going on the road. Still remember couple times, once a rider adjusted his throttle for minimal play bar straight ahead, but when he had to do a sharp right turn, bike accelerated when he turned, dumping the bike...
Just a phenom that you should always check throttle, brakes and clutch performance lock to lock to be sure everything is setup properly before going on the road. Still remember couple times, once a rider adjusted his throttle for minimal play bar straight ahead, but when he had to do a sharp right turn, bike accelerated when he turned, dumping the bike...
Hoople
Account Removed
Sure does sound like you have an understanding as to what is happening.
It may not be perfect but here is my way of looking at it.
It was difficult for me to really understand what was going on in the Harley setup along with Harley Free play adjustments because I was trying to compare them to a clutch system in a cage. But the problem with doing that was clutch Free Play on a cage is the clutch pedal linkage free play that is necessary so the throw out bearing is not always spinning with pressure applied to it. That Free Play (throw out bearing freeplay) in a cage can be directly compared to the derby cover bolt adjustment used in the Harley set up and Not the cable adjustment. That's were I went wrong. I was looking at cable free play and comparing it to throwout bearing freeplay. Harley cable free play is not the same as throw out bearing Free Play in a cage.
The derby cover adjustment is really the throw-out bearing adjustment in a cage. I realize it is not the way people drive stick shift cars but the cable Free Play can be looked at as the distance (or rest position) between your foot and the clutch pedal in a cage. Even though your throw-out bearing free play was set correctly, you would not want your left foot actually resting on the clutch pedal. It would be important to have a very small gap to ensure the pedal was not preloaded under torque conditions. In the Harley the cable free play is only there to ensure the cable bellcrank is not preloaded. (drivers foot preloading cage pedal)
The cable Free Play will change (at least on my bike) when you swing the bars far right or left, when under hard acceleration, and with engine/primary temperature changes. That 1/8" gap in cable freeplay is needed so the cable bellcrank is not pre-loaded. The derby cover adjustment is important because a mal-adjustment there can cause premature wear to clutch components. (or throw out bearing in a cage)
Lack of cable freeplay (-1/8" instead of +1/8") in a Harley would preload the cable bellcrank which would have the same effect as having the derby adjustment incorrect.
The net result of where the clutch engages and releases is really a function of clutch and cable bellcrank rest positions along with mechanical throw ratio's. Yes, you can hug one side of an adjustment and make a change (which is fine) but the real lever resting point and clutch pack disengagement points are done through proper fulcrum positions in the bellcranks and levers.
Porter
Junior Member
NewHD74Fan and Hoople: Thanks very much! That helps.
I started this a while ago in the "Transmisison Help Section" but then I saw another post of a rider that seemed to be having the same issues I am having with adjusting my clutch. Glider replied back that I must be doing something wrong, as I can't get any method to work (manual or the easy method from this board). Perhaps something is wrong and maybe you can point me in the right direction of where to look. I typically don't need much clutch adjustment because of my driving: Mostly highway. How I adjust for the little wear that I get now is that I remove the derby cover, loosen the lock nut and back the center bolt out 1/8 to 1/4 turn. This seems to work. I don't collapse the cable housing at all. When I turn the bolt in the center of the clutch pack out a little, this puts a little more gap in the cable housing at the perch. I then expand the housing a little.
When I try the methods in the manual or the "easy method" I end up with a clutch that is disengaged all the time. Meaning with the bike runing in first gear, it goes nowhere. I tried this yesterday as I did about a year ago and got the same result. I also end up with so miuch "cable" that I completely separate/expand the cable housing at the adjuster and there is so much slack in the cable that the cluth lever flops and there is about 5/8" gap at the cable perch. As far as I can tell the bike is completely stock and original being I bought it used from a dealership.
Is it possible that:
Am I missing couple clutch plates or something?
Do I have the wrong cable installed from the factory?
Following the methods and videos, when I collapse the cable housing (all the way) I have to turn the center bolt on the clutch pack 6-8 full turns in to have it move the clutch lever. This 6-8 turns seems way to much to me. Then when I back off a turn or so and lock it, as I re-expand the cable housing I can watch the clutch pack get "pushed out". By the time I get to the correct amount of gap at the cable perch it is as if I have the clutch lever compressed all the time.
I just can't understand how I can have somr slack in the cable housing, yet when I turn the expander bolt is seems to pull the cable. All done with a cold bike and a lubricated cable. I am going to talk to an independent mechanic in my town. Maybe he can tell me what I am doing wrong.
As always, anyones thoughts or similar experiences are appreciated.
Thanks again!
I started this a while ago in the "Transmisison Help Section" but then I saw another post of a rider that seemed to be having the same issues I am having with adjusting my clutch. Glider replied back that I must be doing something wrong, as I can't get any method to work (manual or the easy method from this board). Perhaps something is wrong and maybe you can point me in the right direction of where to look. I typically don't need much clutch adjustment because of my driving: Mostly highway. How I adjust for the little wear that I get now is that I remove the derby cover, loosen the lock nut and back the center bolt out 1/8 to 1/4 turn. This seems to work. I don't collapse the cable housing at all. When I turn the bolt in the center of the clutch pack out a little, this puts a little more gap in the cable housing at the perch. I then expand the housing a little.
When I try the methods in the manual or the "easy method" I end up with a clutch that is disengaged all the time. Meaning with the bike runing in first gear, it goes nowhere. I tried this yesterday as I did about a year ago and got the same result. I also end up with so miuch "cable" that I completely separate/expand the cable housing at the adjuster and there is so much slack in the cable that the cluth lever flops and there is about 5/8" gap at the cable perch. As far as I can tell the bike is completely stock and original being I bought it used from a dealership.
Is it possible that:
Am I missing couple clutch plates or something?
Do I have the wrong cable installed from the factory?
Following the methods and videos, when I collapse the cable housing (all the way) I have to turn the center bolt on the clutch pack 6-8 full turns in to have it move the clutch lever. This 6-8 turns seems way to much to me. Then when I back off a turn or so and lock it, as I re-expand the cable housing I can watch the clutch pack get "pushed out". By the time I get to the correct amount of gap at the cable perch it is as if I have the clutch lever compressed all the time.
I just can't understand how I can have somr slack in the cable housing, yet when I turn the expander bolt is seems to pull the cable. All done with a cold bike and a lubricated cable. I am going to talk to an independent mechanic in my town. Maybe he can tell me what I am doing wrong.
As always, anyones thoughts or similar experiences are appreciated.
Thanks again!
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
.............PORTER.............
THIS IS JUST OPPOSITE FOR MY THINKING... this is where you may be wrong... my example below: derby cover adjustment on clutch pack:
I loosen jamb nut,,,,,, turn CENTER allen bolt "IN" yes "IN" to take out free play.... then as it contacts the clutch...@ FINGER tight against the clutch , I THEN BACK IT "OUT" 1/2 FULL TURN OR 5/8 FULL TURN"""" OFF THE "IN" TIGHT POSITION""""...... ""CAREFULLY"" HOLD BOLT IN THE 1/2 TURN OUT POSITION AND TIGHTEN JAMB NUT...
all this WAS done with the cable in LOOSENED position .....THEN i "take out" the cable free-play (in middle cable adjustment) to 1/8 " and check to see it doesn't tighten to "0" when handlebars are moved from lock to lock..
signed....BUBBIE
Hoople
Account Removed
This won't work. I am sure your adjust will be way off after a few tweaking adjustments. Your compounding your free play problems doing it that way.
Bubbie sounds right on target. What he says may be your entire problem. I sense a Happy ending coming shortly..
Porter
Junior Member
This past Sunday after reading the info from this thread on Saturday and having thought about the problems/issues I had before:
Bike is cold (sat overnight). Cable adjuster untouched with 1/8" gap. Clutch is working fine as in not slipping and it engages/disengages about midway through the lever pull.
I opened the derby cover, loosened the jam nut while holding the adjustment bolt still. I turned the adjustment bolt in (clockwise) 1/2 of a turn. Closed everything up and went for a test drive. The clutch slipped when I would really open the throttle in every gear.
Came back, let the bike cool. Opened the derby cover and (touched nothing else) and moved the adjustment bolt out (counter clockwise) and the clutch went back to nomal.
That's why I said "out" in my previous posts...I even had my wife watch me with the video and the methods to prove to me I am not crazy. Not that she is a mechanic.
I feel like I am an idiot.
Bike is cold (sat overnight). Cable adjuster untouched with 1/8" gap. Clutch is working fine as in not slipping and it engages/disengages about midway through the lever pull.
I opened the derby cover, loosened the jam nut while holding the adjustment bolt still. I turned the adjustment bolt in (clockwise) 1/2 of a turn. Closed everything up and went for a test drive. The clutch slipped when I would really open the throttle in every gear.
Came back, let the bike cool. Opened the derby cover and (touched nothing else) and moved the adjustment bolt out (counter clockwise) and the clutch went back to nomal.
That's why I said "out" in my previous posts...I even had my wife watch me with the video and the methods to prove to me I am not crazy. Not that she is a mechanic.
I feel like I am an idiot.
Hoople
Account Removed
Why so. No need to feel that way. Anyone who says they have not made any mistakes is lying or never takes any risks and plays it way to safe.
What I need to do after making a mistake is write down what I learned so I don't do it again!.