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97 fat boy

ahern25

Active Member
Hey guys and gals. Was looking at a 1997 Fat Boy as a purchase. Guy wants 7500 dollars. Never had an Evo engine before. Im wondering if its a good buy or should I go with the newer twin cam engines? Will an evo be able to keep up? Its only got 23000 miles so not sure how long the evo's last. Any replies would be helpful. Thanks.
 
Hey guys and gals. Was looking at a 1997 Fat Boy as a purchase. Guy wants 7500 dollars. Never had an Evo engine before. Im wondering if its a good buy or should I go with the newer twin cam engines? Will an evo be able to keep up? Its only got 23000 miles so not sure how long the evo's last. Any replies would be helpful. Thanks.

The price seems ok. By 1997 the Evo was pretty well refined. If it has been taken care of it should go to 75,000 with no problem, 100,000 wouldn't be uncommon. The gearing on the Fat Boy should be the same as your Road King, so yea, it will "keep up". But it won't be as smooth because it's not rubber mounted or balanced.
 
Hey guys and gals. Was looking at a 1997 Fat Boy as a purchase. Guy wants 7500 dollars. Never had an Evo engine before. Im wondering if its a good buy or should I go with the newer twin cam engines? Will an evo be able to keep up? Its only got 23000 miles so not sure how long the evo's last. Any replies would be helpful. Thanks.

very nice bike....i love my 98 softail custom, but like Breeze said " not as smooth". everyone i have talked to says the EVOs are a very strong dependable engine :rider:rider
 
Late evo engined bikes seem to be pretty sturdy bikes at the time that bike was built there seemed to be a very high quality of build and finish on the bikes
although they can suffer from leaking base and lower rocker gaskets proper warm up of the engine before giving it high loads should prevent gaskets blowing
They will vibrate a wee bit but the effects can be reduced by careful choice of hand grips etc

Brian
 
Late evo engined bikes seem to be pretty sturdy bikes at the time that bike was built there seemed to be a very high quality of build and finish on the bikes
although they can suffer from leaking base and lower rocker gaskets proper warm up of the engine before giving it high loads should prevent gaskets blowing
They will vibrate a wee bit but the effects can be reduced by careful choice of hand grips etc

Brian

good point on the warm up Brian. i don't move mine until i cant put the back of my fingers on the rear cylinder (told to by an old evo mech). just took it for a little ride, wish i wasn't at work :(
 
Evos are very good motors and you got a good buy here, change your oil clean the tappet screen and warm it up to hand touch at the rear rocker box, they like to leak oil thee, but there is a good permanent fix for this I can explain if u need the info and I have never had a leak when done:s
 
Evos are very good motors and you got a good buy here, change your oil clean the tappet screen and warm it up to hand touch at the rear rocker box, they like to leak oil thee, but there is a good permanent fix for this I can explain if u need the info and I have never had a leak when done:s

I'd sure be interested in the fix Jack.
I've got a '98 EVO and pretty well explained before me (or above by Jack). I did switch to poly bushings on the handlebars and did decrease the vibration in the hands. Not bad anymore, but thinking of changing grips from original to something to a little softer to reduce even more.
 
I'm interested too jack. I just replaced my rocker gaskets with James gaskets. So far so good.
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I'd sure be interested in the fix Jack.
I've got a '98 EVO and pretty well explained before me (or above by Jack). I did switch to poly bushings on the handlebars and did decrease the vibration in the hands. Not bad anymore, but thinking of changing grips from original to something to a little softer to reduce even more.

For vibration try the old bicycle style hand grips, as far as the oil leaks, if you use metal base and head gaskets, run a file over them to check for burrs and nicks, hang them on a coat hangar and spray them with copper coat. When you install the barrels and heads do not tighten any thing until you align the intake ports with a 30 degree triangle, touching at least 2 FLAT) places on each head, then torque them per the gasket manufactures spec not H D spec. You will not have any leaks at the base or heads, side note check the crank case areas good where the cylinder studs screw in and be sure of no cracks and the studs are tight, if in doubt replace them as they will come loose and stretch, a drop of oil under the head bolts will give the best torque
 
For vibration try the old bicycle style hand grips, as far as the oil leaks, if you use metal base and head gaskets, run a file over them to check for burrs and nicks, hang them on a coat hangar and spray them with copper coat. When you install the barrels and heads do not tighten any thing until you align the intake ports with a 30 degree triangle, touching at least 2 FLAT) places on each head, then torque them per the gasket manufactures spec not H D spec. You will not have any leaks at the base or heads, side note check the crank case areas good where the cylinder studs screw in and be sure of no cracks and the studs are tight, if in doubt replace them as they will come loose and stretch, a drop of oil under the head bolts will give the best torque

Thanks for the heads up Jack. Sounds like next winter's project for me. Can we post this in the self help section??
 
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