95 fatboy oil change

[TQuentin1]

Oil and lubricating fluids are subjects with lots of opinions about what is best. So I am just relaying my own personal preferences. It is your bike, you decide what is best for you.

I only own used bikes. I do not buy new bikes from the HD dealerships, although I will buy a used bike if in premium condition from an HD dealership.

I have converted all my late model bikes ('03 - '12) over to the following fluids:

Engine: Mobil 1 VTwin 20W50 full synthetic engine oil
Tranny: Spectro HEAVY DUTY PLATINUM 6-SPEED TRANSMISSION OIL
Primary: Spectro HEAVY DUTY PRIMARY CHAINCASE OIL

On my older bike ('91 Dyna), I use a GL-1 fluid in the tranny (Spectro HEAVY DUTY PLATINUM GEAR OIL), but the others as above. I used the GL-5 fluid in my '03 UC because I had replaced the 5-spd tranny with a SE 6-spd.

I recommend using the HD recommended oil filters for your model year (engine type dependent).

The engine and tranny fluids are full synthetics. The chaincase fluid is fit-for-purpose for chaincase/wet clutch applications.

My logic is that engines need engine oil, transmissions need transmission fluid, and chaincase/wet clutch primaries need a fit-for-purpose fluid.

There are other premium quality brands out there that many folks will recommend. Most are excellent choices. I suggest doing a bit of research and then picking the brands you want to use that are easiest for you to get. I personally order online, so what is available locally is not that significant to me.

Here is info on the Spectro line: http://spectro-oils.com/heavy-duty-platinum-6-speed-transmission-oil/

Cheers,

TQ

 

[Shadow125]

JMHO but engine oil is just that engine oil. Some use the same in all 3 holes but I would not recommend it.
I use Mobile 1 twin v 20/50 in the engine, Formula + in the primary and Red Line shock proof in the tranny and have never had an issue.

I think your analysis on synthetic oil is flawed, maybe a little more research is in order. I know a lot of people who have made the switch without any issues.
Different fluids have been debated to death here on the forum and the general consensuses is It's your ride you decide.

I am actually getting ASE certified for auto parts knowledge. Synthetic oils have an easier time slipping past seals that have wear on them then conventional due to smaller molecules. It is a common problem for people to get an older used car like a mustang, camaro (ie cars people want performance out of and think synthetic will help that) ect that has 100k+ miles on it than swap it to synthetic and have serious blow by\seal leak issues becasue the cylinder wear from the less efficient conventional. (remember a common point for why you should use synthetic is that it can more easily get into tighter areas that conventional cant and therefore protect those areas better. this same logic applies to looser tolerances caused by engine wear) While yes this does mean pre existing conditions, it is the case that they are magnified when swapping to a synthetic where as continuing to use conventional you may be able to go for quite a bit of time before things wear to the point that you get the same issue (same needed repair but longer interval until it is necessary). Even most of the major brands of oil acknowledge this though they down play it to encourage more sales. Royal Purple in particular goes into depth in that preexisting conditions can be made super apparent by swapping.

 

[TQuentin1]

That has been the argument for sticking with dino oil in the engine by a few folks. However, the main reason I use full synthetic in the engine is that Group IV PAO based oils tolerate the higher heat of an air cooled VTwin well. They may also help the engine run a bit cooler especially when an oil cooler is part of the engine setup.

I have never had oil leaking problems after converting to the suite of products I mentioned previously, but none of my bikes were high mileage when I bought them (i.e., over 100kmiles run on dino engine oil the whole time).

But again, it is your ride. You decide.

Cheers,

TQ

 

[Jeff Klarich]

I understand your logic but you'll find just as many experts who will contradict what you just explained. Could it be just to sell more of their product? maybe but i'm basing my thoughts and use on experience of my own and others.
Your ride your decide.

 

[ThunderRogue]

I just want to respond to Shadow125's questions without adding any more fuel to the fire on who's doing what with what oil. "A scavenge tool for removing all the oil from the top end": Most don't worry about it because most change their oil so frequently. You'll never get all the oil out of your motor since it will cling to everything. However, there is a method some use where you can "purge" most of the oil from the system. Google it and you will find it. Even a few videos on YouTube. And lastly, "different fluids for the motor and trans": Yes for that year bike Harley-Davidson recommended their Dino oil in the motor, and, their trans fluid in the trans. I have a '93 Dyna Low Rider and it has never had anything but HD fluids (and filter) in it. That was prior to them (HD) coming out with Syn3.