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3 phase stator

10 years in may

i worked 5 years for lamb greys harbour, making recycling paper mill machines, from raw metal , to fully funtional, i loved it but job went to mexico, so i went into the motor shops field, i also do field balancing of single and duel plane fans, of and size.
 
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i also do field balancing of single and duel plane fans, of and size.


Very Interesting. I have been fascinated by balancing equipment for years and years. It is a science in itself.

Sorry Atoka. I am not trying to Hi-jack your thread. Fire away if you need help.
 
It is not as simple as just a number or value. You have 3 outputs coming out of the stator all at the same time that are 120 degrees out of phase with each other. You also have RPM injected into the equation and on top of that would you like an RMS or Peak value. If RMS, you would have to use a True RMS meter because the value you read will depend on the RPM of the engine. Then there is the question of wanting the values loaded and by how much. If loaded, what load value are you going to use. If your using the regulator in the bike, what if one of the regulator outputs happen to be shorted, then what. The value you read will be near zero and your going to think the stator is bad when it isn't. To really make any sense of what you see, you will need a scope to view the sine wave.
To truly test the stator you would have to "Ring" the 3 coils in the absence of the rotor. That will tell you if you have a shorted turn. Remember, only the crests of the waveforms charge the battery, not the bulk of the waveform itself. How will you measure that?
There is no simple magic number you can just read. If there was, the service manual would go into it.
Maybe someone else has the number your looking for but I don't see anything that is practical other than the ohm meter & smell test.
 
I'm glad you're here Hoople. You have provided some excellent explanations on the workings of the electrics we see most.
It's one thing to know them, but you seem to have a gift for being able to explain and "teach" in terms that we can understand.
My hat is off to you....Thanks
 
Don't believe a word I say. I make this stuff up on the fly.:p

Just kidding. Thanks for the kind words.
 
here is a self help page on checking problems

look at close to bottom of page to see how to check stator and regulator.
My Motorcycle Won't Start!! What Now?

The Stator can be checked with the Ohms function on your meter. Locate and remove the plug for the stator on the front of the engine block. You will see two or three pins inside.
Set the meter for low Ohms, and measure the continuity between these pins. 5 Ohms or less is what you are looking for here. Set the meter to the highest setting. With 1 lead attached to a metal part of bike check for continuity to each pin. You meter should read infinite, or no continuity. If these tests check out then your stator is fine. If there is a fault in any of these tests, then see your dealer
The regulator is the easiest of all to check. The regulator is made of solid state electronics and can't be opened. Replace the regulator if everything else on the charging system checks out or if there is an overcharging situation.
On most Harley's you will not know if the charging system is beginning to fail. The evidence shows up when you have dim lights or she just won't start. There are aftermarket accessories that you can install on your bike that will tell you the current state of the charging system.
Save yourself some bucks here!! With a simple multimeter available from any Electronics parts store you can troubleshoot your charging system and check your battery and most likely repair any problems yourself.
 
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I have a 2008 FXDF that is not charging, I checked the 3 pin stator output connector and get 20 to 25-30 volts AC depending on RPM across any two of the three pins - I also have .2-3 ohms between any two of the three pins and .2 to .3 ohms from any of the three pins to ground and no bad smell from the engine oil...... so I think my stator is good

The regulator has 1.4 volts output no matter what the RPM, so I think I need to replace the regulator? Am I correct?
 
The regulator has 1.4 volts output no matter what the RPM, so I think I need to replace the regulator? Am I correct?

I don't understand how you only read 1.4 volts output. Even if the regultor was toast, you should read at least battery voltage. Don't try to test the charging system without a battery hooked to the regulator. The battery is needed as a reference voltage and a place to sink the current.

On a 2008 (3) phase you should get some really strong lift on the voltmeter at the 3000 RPM range (<50 volts).. Be sure each phase reading is equal to each other. Reading 35 volts on one phase and 32 (same RPM) on another would be a reject stator in my opinion.

If you get good readings on above and you pass ohm reading test along with hi ohm (20meg) insulation from ground tests, change out regulator and see what happens. It would be very rare to see a bad stator take out a new regulator.
 
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