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3/4" to 1" Axle?

cmvsm

cmvsm

Member
Just received my new chrome fork sliders yesterday, and although the seller said they were for an '02 FXDL, the axle holes are actually 1" instead of 3/4". So they must have actually fit newer Dyna models instead of mine and the seller made a mistake.

Was thinking that maybe I could get a spacer for the axle to run through on both sides of the wheel to soak up the additional 1/4", but not sure if that is possible. Got a really good deal on these chrome sliders, but if they have to go back...they have to go back.

First a stripped damper bolt now this. Job is getting much longer than I thought, but learning a great deal along the way which is the important thing. I'll actually have advice to pass on to other members..

Any advice once again is appreciated.
 
Why not swap the bearings to 1" bearings. Not a big deal. My front wheel bearings are 1" on a 2000 electraglide and the rear is 3/4".
kemo
 
Like Kemo says changing the bearings out is not a big deal, don't know about the internal dia of the spacer between the bearings, but if it's 3/4 it will need to be changed also. And then you will need a 1" axel. I'm sure you can get the parts at your local HD.
 
Just to add another option:
I bought 2000-up sliders for my tourer (they got the 1" axle in 2000), as I wanted the 4-caliper brakes while keeping my front wheel speedo drive. As I have the conical, two piece bearings the sealed type does not fit (as opposed to yours, for which the 3/4" & 1" bearings interchange).
I got a 1" axle machined down to fit, and I have now been running it for two seasons w/o problems (I've had it apart a couple of times as I was worried about bending/shearing, but no issues at all).
Fitting 1" bearings seem like an easy way out for you, but beware:
You have to check if the 1" I.D. bearing spacer fits inside your hub - I suspect it might not. If you have your wheel off measure the bore, the 1" spacer is probably roughly 1.25" O.D. or so.
I would not machine the hub to fit the spacer - that is one area which is better left alone...
So, if the spacer will not fit, I would strongly recommend my solution or get another set of sliders...
 
Karl on my orignial rear wheel you are correct in stating that I can not use a
1" axle.
kemo
 
Thanks for the heads up. Useful to get that one confirmed.
I am upgrading the rear this winter, as I have had one too many wobbles...
Got hold of a 2002-up rear swingarm with fittings, and now know that I also need a 2002-up wheel.
I will need to either sleeve up my pivot shaft or get the CCE conversion kit for it to fit, and will probably also add glide-pro stabilizers.
 
Karl when you do your swing arm are you going to change the belt for preventive maintainence? I guess that you would be 1/2 way there.
kemo
 
Hi Kemo
Thanks, that's a good idea. I also want to check out how my drive pulley has held up: An important thing for us old scoot owners is to find implement USEFUL upgrades done on newer models. For example, old EVO's had a tiny single screw/bolt locking the drive pulley nut. That, coupled with the pulley itself being thinner made it a well-known fact that those pulleys could come loose (mine was). The upgrade came in the form of a thicker pulley, and a sturdy locking plate bolted onto the pulley with two bolts. I did the upgrade probably 5 years ago, and am curious to how it looks now (yours has the newer type).
I am into a major rebuild this winter, as I am also building a S&S EVO 96" with some goodies - should be fun!
 
I ended up getting a new set of sliders. Turned out that I actually had one leg at 3/4", and the other at 1/25". Pretty crazy but all resolved now. Thanks for everyones suggestions. Learned a bit about wheel bearings that I didn't know before.
 
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