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2009 rear wheel removal

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mdnbiker

Member
Removed rear wheel on 2009 FLHT. Tried everything I could to get brake caliper to clear wheel. Finally had to remove rotor to get wheel out. This is the stock wheel found on most Electa Glides. Had everything off including rubber mounted sprocket and caliper bracket but could not get caliper off of rotor because of it hitting the wheel. Did i miss something? Is there another way? Been working on my Harleys for over 30 years and never had a problem like this before.
Reassembled the same way, put wheel in place them slid rotor between caliper bracket and wheel into caliper then put rotor bolts in.
 
This would be the same problem on street glide. The wheels I put back on were street glide wheels and caliper would not clear on them either. I searched several forums and found no info on 09 or 10 rear wheel change.
 
are you guys dropping the wheel straight down for removal as you would with it up on a lift - or backing it out towards the rear when removing. I've got an 08 EG and am yet to remove the rear wheel, but saw posts suggesting that a secondary lift "underneath" the tire that you can drop the rear wheel onto, aids in removal. Now I don't know if that was specific to 08's or not, but don't remember reading anything about rotor removal to get the wheel off either.
 
I'm looking to drop my rear wheel in the next few days as well to have the tire replaced. Hope someone can help soon if this may be a problem with wheel not allowing the caliper to be removed without removing the rotor.
 
I have not done a rear wheel on a 09 or later because I can not get the Dunlop tires through my supplier, so I'm not much help, but I would try compressing the pistons in the caliper as far as possable before trying to remove it, if that does'nt work, sounds like the rotor must be removed, pat attension to the notes below about installing the rotor to the hub in same position it was taken off, using new mounting bolts everytime.

This is what the 09 service manual says.

REAR WHEEL REMOVAL

  1. Remove saddlebags.
  2. Place motorcycle on center stand with the rear wheel raised off the ground.
  3. Inspect wheel bearings.
  4. Remove left side muffler.
  5. On models equipped with low profile shock absorbers (FLHX), remove left side lower saddlebag support rail.
  6. ABS equipped: Cut cable strap to release rear wheel speed sensor cable from rear brake hose.
  7. Remove rear brake caliper but do not disconnect the brake hose. Set brake caliper on passenger footboard.
    • NOTE: Do not operate the rear brake pedal with the caliper removed or the caliper pistons may be forced out. Reseating pistons requires disassembly of the caliper.
  8. Remove E-clip (1) from groove at end of axle.
  9. Hold weld nut on left side and loosen cone nut using AXLE NUT TORQUE ADAPTER (Part No. HD-47925).
  10. Remove cone nut and adjuster cam from axle.
  11. Rotate weld nut on opposite side of axle in a counterclockwise direction until wheel is loose.
    • NOTE: If ABS equipped, never pull wheel speed sensor cable taut or use to retain wheel, axle or other components. Always keep wheel speed sensor (and ABS encoder bearing) away from magnetic fields (such as magnetic parts trays, magnetic base dial indicators, alternator rotors, etc.) or damage will occur.
  12. Using a soft mallet, gently tap end of axle towards left side of motorcycle. Catching external spacer(s), pull axle free of rear fork, caliper bracket, rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped), and wheel hub.
  13. Remove caliper bracket from anchor weldment on rear fork.
  14. Move wheel forward and slip belt off compensator sprocket.
    • NOTE: Hold compensator sprocket while removing rear wheel. Compensator sprocket may drop from wheel if isolators are excessively worn.
  15. If necessary, remove brake disc from hub. If wheel is to be assembled with the same disc, mark both the wheel and disc, so that it can be installed in its original position.

INSTALLATION


  1. If removed, install brake disc using five new screws. Alternately tighten screws to 30-45 ft-lbs (41-61 Nm). Always install brake disc in its original position.
  2. Verify that compensator sprocket is square and fully seated in bowl area of wheel.
  3. Place wheel in rear fork. Install belt over compensator sprocket and slide the wheel back. Never bend belt forward into a loop smaller than the drive sprocket diameter. Never bend belt into a reverse loop. Over bending can damage belt resulting in premature failure, which could cause loss of control and death or serious injury.
  4. Seat caliper bracket on anchor weldment of rear fork.
  5. Apply a light coat of anti-seize lubricant to axle, bearing bores and bore of spacer sleeve.
  6. Slide axle through left side of rear swingarm, external spacer (thin), and rear wheel compensator sprocket into wheel hub.
    • NOTE: Be sure that grooves on external spacer, or index pin on rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped), are on the outboard side.
  7. Push axle through rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped) or external spacer (thick), caliper bracket, and right side of rear fork.
  8. Rotate axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside. With the cam forward, install adjuster cam on end of axle.
  9. Apply a thin film of anti-seize lubricant to the inboard side of the cone nut avoiding contact with threads. Install cone nut on axle. Finger tighten only.
  10. If ABS equipped, route sensor cable forward and outboard of caliper bracket. Continue forward following top of rear fork. Rotate rear wheel speed sensor in a counter-clockwise direction until index pin makes contact with caliper bracket
  11. Tighten the cone nut to 15-20 ft-lbs
  12. Install brake caliper and tighten screws to 43-48 ft-lbs
  13. Secure rear wheel speed sensor cable to brake hose with the conduit clip located approximately 1.25 in. in front of the brake hose crimp.
  14. Adjust drive belt using BELT TENSION GAUGE and torque axle to 95-105 ft. lbs.
  15. Install a new E-clip with the flat side out in groove on right side of axle.
  16. On models equipped with low profile shock absorbers (FLHX), install left side lower saddlebag support rail.
  17. Install left muffler.
 
I see what the manuel says but, i've been messing with these things for many years and it will not come off that way. An 08 is different and will clear the wheel. This is the way step by step

  1. remove saddlebags
  2. remove RH muffler
  3. remove bolts holding rear bumper and rear of saddlebag brackets
  4. remove support bolts on LH muffler
  5. remove LH lower bag support
  6. remove axel clip ring and nut
  7. raise wheel and remove rotor bolts
  8. loosen brake caliber mounting bolts
  9. support rear wheel and turn axel pivot bolt to loosen belt
  10. pull belt from pully and move to the side
  11. as you pull axel be prepared to catch RH spacer and rotor
  12. pull axel the rest of the way out and be ready to catch LH spacer
  13. raise rear of bike high enough to remove wheel
Assemble in reverse order except raise wheel up to axel height, slip rotor up and into caliper, lower wheel back down slightly, just enough to get RH spacer in, then raise back up.
This will differ slightly with ABS because of the sensor.
If anyone knows a better way, please post.
 
Chopper.
I bought my rear tire off e-bay from a harley dealer. He had 8 new (never mounted) tires for 150.00 each and 15.00 shipping That was the best buy I could find.

Talking to another old timer at the bar tonight and he said he had to do the same thing with his 09 ultra.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Chopper said:
15. If necessary, remove brake disc from hub. If wheel is to
be assembled with the same disc, mark both the wheel
and disc, so that it can be installed in its original position.
Click to expand...

Well those 2 little words, "If necessary", certainly suggest that its not an open/shut case that the rotor "must" be removed in order to get the wheel out. But I'm going to guess that HD probably knew the dismay they'd get on having to do this to get the wheel off, so they injected "if necessary" into the removal documentation. With probably the knowledge that you can't get the wheel dropped without taking the rotor off first. Why else would they insert "if necessary".

Chopper be curious what you run into when you tackle one of these, but what a pain. Probably need to loosen those rotor bolts with wheel still on the ground to make full removal easier when bike is up on the lift.

EDIT: meant to say why else would they insert "if necessary" into documentation that I think would be based on a stock 09 setup as shipped from the factory. Not sure on that though as to how they orient their documentation.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I just put a back tire on my 09 RKC all I had to remove was the brake caliper and not the rotor. Also removed the lower shock bolts because I have low profile shocks ...that was easier than removing the saddlebag rail.
 
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