2007 Ultra hard to start when warm or hot

[nascar7613]

The bike has a new compensator, OEM not screamin eagle. The battery is only 6 months old and turns the engine over fine, starter doesn't drag or anything abnormal. It just has a hard time firing, cranks over normal. I can't see either injector thru the intake, but it seems that the smokey fumes after shut down are excessive to me.

 

[dolt]

The Stage I download is worthless. A good fuel management system and a tune will solve the issue. JMHO.

 

[craigcrittenden]

I agree with Dolt.

 

[eh8user]

I have the same problem with a 2007 ultra classic. It always starts fine cold, but sometimes it takes two tries to get it started when it is hot. I had the battery load tested at a battery shop as 'good' and voltage checked at 12.7, fresh gas, new spark plugs. It is like the starter has a mind of its own. Sometimes it cranks over fast and starts on the first crank and sometimes it will go half of a crank and stop and sometimes it will crank slow several cranks or seconds before it starts? Luckily it always starts by the second push of the starter button.

 

[dolt]

I have the same problem with a 2007 ultra classic. It always starts fine cold, but sometimes it takes two tries to get it started when it is hot. I had the battery load tested at a battery shop as 'good' and voltage checked at 12.7, fresh gas, new spark plugs. It is like the starter has a mind of its own. Sometimes it cranks over fast and starts on the first crank and sometimes it will go half of a crank and stop and sometimes it will crank slow several cranks or seconds before it starts? Luckily it always starts by the second push of the starter button.

A load tested battery that registers "good" does not mean much. If the battery is the original battery, I am betting a replacement will solve the problem. Do you keep the battery on a tender?

 

[Jeff Klarich]

A load tested battery that registers "good" does not mean much. If the battery is the original battery, I am betting a replacement will solve the problem. Do you keep the battery on a tender?

I agree if it's the original in a 07 it's time to replace but if a load test shows the battery to be good and it holds the necessary volts under load then why does it not mean much? Please explain.

 

[dolt]

I agree if it's the original in a 07 it's time to replace but if a load test shows the battery to be good and it holds the necessary volts under load then why does it not mean much? Please explain.

Voltage does not start the motor; it takes amperage. Having said that, test voltage should be in the 12.8-12.9 range; voltage of say 10.5 would indicate a dead or shorted cell. If a battery is rated at say 650 CCA (cold cranking amps) that means that the battery should deliver 650 CCA for 30 seconds. A load test typically tests the battery at half the CCA for half the time; i.e., a 650 CCA rated battery should be tested to confirm that it will deliver 325 CCA for 15 seconds.

Most don't understand that to properly load test a battery, it should be fully charged and the let sit for 8-12 hours before testing to get a true reading. A battery can load test good and still be a weak battery. As soon as it is subjected to the load the Harley motor requires to crank the motor; the battery's ability to deliver the rated CCA can diminish very quickly.

I don't know how the battery was prepped for testing or how it was tested so I may be talking out of school. However, I will bet a six pack that if the OP replaces the battery with an OEM battery or a Big Crank battery or any quality AGM battery his problem will be solved. Additionally, if he keeps the battery on a tender, the new battery should last at least 5 years. As usual, JMHO.

 

[eh8user]

I keep the battery on a tender. I don't know how old the battery is. I just purchased the bike in April.

 

[Jeff Klarich]

Voltage does not start the motor; it takes amperage. Having said that, test voltage should be in the 12.8-12.9 range; voltage of say 10.5 would indicate a dead or shorted cell. If a battery is rated at say 650 CCA (cold cranking amps) that means that the battery should deliver 650 CCA for 30 seconds. A load test typically tests the battery at half the CCA for half the time; i.e., a 650 CCA rated battery should be tested to confirm that it will deliver 325 CCA for 15 seconds.

Most don't understand that to properly load test a battery, it should be fully charged and the let sit for 8-12 hours before testing to get a true reading. A battery can load test good and still be a weak battery. As soon as it is subjected to the load the Harley motor requires to crank the motor; the battery's ability to deliver the rated CCA can diminish very quickly.

I don't know how the battery was prepped for testing or how it was tested so I may be talking out of school. However, I will bet a six pack that if the OP replaces the battery with an OEM battery or a Big Crank battery or any quality AGM battery his problem will be solved. Additionally, if he keeps the battery on a tender, the new battery should last at least 5 years. As usual, JMHO.

So what you're saying if I read your post correctly we're most likely giving bad or incorrect advice when we suggest someone load test their battery?

If that's the case I stand corrected and will no longer give that advice BUT I've used that method for years and it's never failed me yet.

 

[Breeze3at]

What you are describing is often called "hot stall", and in my experience is the first sign of a battery failing. Sometimes they will last quite a while after it starts. My Dyna has shown this characteristic on every single battery that I have had in it. . My buddy has an identical bike, equipped with T.H., A/C, fuel pak as you, and his does it about 1 1/2 years after he puts a battery in it. My '07 E.G.Classic has never done it, and I attribute it to the extra ground cable I installed from batt. to starter mount bolt.