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2007 883 Sportster shifting problem

There could be a lot of old varnish deposits (oils diluted with some fuel or water along with metal corrosion (acids) may create a slurry in there that is difficult to clean out. They may have also overfilled the level...another cause for poor shifting. Using MMO and riding a bit, followed by a fluid change with regular motor oil, go for another long ride and get it good and hot and drain again, now put in Formula Plus. Now do the hot clutch adjustment and you should be golden. Good luck! All this is because on the Sporty, the clutch is oil wetted and most 100% Synthetic 20W-50 Engine oils have friction modifiers and are not really "gear oil" and thin oil will sling around with the all the agitation in there. :s
 
Gusotto if the bike has only done 700 miles in 5yrs the build up of deposits and varnish could cause trouble and for a few $$$ running an engine cleaner through would help - I use fortron which does work and is the only one I will ever use
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aklim said:
I understand that but it was in response to Lucky15's "cleaner in a can" aka snake oil suggestion.
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hmmmm snake oil - if youve never used forton not sure how you can call snake oil or relate it to other, fuel treatments/cleaners in a can such as redex/STP/Slick 50 - fortron is nothing like these products and every person i have advised it to be it metric or HD rider or anyother for that matter have had incredible results and like yourself - indoctrined into thinking snake oil so will never try these products did and were plesantly surprised with better running - i to orginally like you thought snake oil until i tried it and it sorted out my bikes running issues and the oil treatment is incredible thick horrid gloopy oil, as it usually is by change time, once treated and run comes out like water and carries an awful lot of debris with it.

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one other thing to look out is the adjuster rod as my last 1200 (2006) kept coming loose and i would lose 1st and 2nd primarily but the other gears would also start to be come difficult to select specially on the down shift, up shifts not so bad as you were or could be close to matching revs
 
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lucky 15 said:
hmmmm snake oil - if youve never used forton not sure how you can call snake oil or relate it to other, fuel treatments/cleaners in a can such as redex/STP/Slick 50 - fortron is nothing like these products and every person i have advised it to be it metric or HD rider or anyother for that matter have had incredible results and like yourself - indoctrined into thinking snake oil so will never try these products did and were plesantly surprised with better running - i to orginally like you thought snake oil until i tried it and it sorted out my bikes running issues and the oil treatment is incredible thick horrid gloopy oil, as it usually is by change time, once treated and run comes out like water and carries an awful lot of debris with it.
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Over the years I have spent a lot of money on cleaners in a can. I gave up on them because all you have is a feeling which might be real or not. For injector cleaning, I send it out to be cleaned and tested. Costs me $15 to KNOW what the injector is doing and how long before the next round of cleaning occurs. My diesel injectors can go about 100K before the next round. How do I know? I tested them at 100K and most of them passed. I look at cleaning solutions like sweeping a room in the dark. Just because you have a pile of debris doesn't mean it is totally clean. I prefer knowing what happened as opposed to feeling something. When you use feeling, it is hard to remove the placebo effect.

Further to that, most manufacturers of the "cleaner in a can" stuff have testimonials instead of proper laboratory tests at accredited facilities using proper test methods the scientific community uses. That makes it hard for me to accept them as worth considering.

When you figure that the injectors are so simple to remove and the cost is so low, why would I want to feel a change vs know what happened? I'll even go further. In my Vette, there was nothing wrong with any of the injectors. Car ran as good before as after. Test was a different matter. One of them flowed significantly less fuel than the others due to a partially collapsed filter basket. When you reinstall them, they feel exactly the same. Before the cleaning, I was running 336 412 412 397 418 422 433 431 for volume. One would assume that having all cylinders even would be best, can one not? After cleaning, all were around 434 within a tenth.

injector videos and questions - Corvette Forum

Why feel when you can know for sure?
 
i fully understand that taking them out and cleaning them is the best option, and those that can or know how to remove them its a very good option - but it does leave the issue of not being able to ride or drive - now Fortron has been lab tested and having used it myself after using other products that didnt really do as they said they would - i was sepitcal - but it worked and worked very well on both the injector cleaner and the engine flush - best thing is with the injector cleaner - you dont lose downtime riding
but to just put it in with others and claim snake oil is very harsh if youve never used it or seen it used - also my dealer did there own independant test of it and have the vials of debris from other 'cleaners' on show on the counter - as like yourself most wouldnt believe it

here is there website
Fortron
 
FWIW, I looked at Fortron's website and it seems Fortron is not available in the U.S. I found "no distributors" on the webstie.
 
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