2005 starter won't disengage??

[R_W_B]

Well I must be wrong on this newer bike????? Could I be thinking about my 97 EVO?

Doesn't the bikes starter Have power IF the jack shaft and Clutch drive is Out into the working position?

Sliding it out by hand when the battery is connected allows Power to the starter so it completes it's cycle?

. . . . . . . . signed....BUBBIE

Oh ok so you are saying that the bendix (solenoid) physically completes the POS batt cable to ground when it moves forward ? I was not aware that was happening although I can see that it would isolate the heavier amp starter circuit from the relay wiring if that is the case.

Sounds reasonable, would like verification of that so I could put it down as learned data.

 

[Hoople]

Bubbie, Not sure if this is what you are referring to. But don't know if the late model solenoids used today have twin coils or not... Very well could be the case. Great point.

 

[R_W_B]

Bubbie, Not sure if this is what you are referring to. But don't know if the late model solenoids used today have twin coils or not... Very well could be the case. Great point.

Thanks Hoop that is very clear to see that.

I have a question, " if " the newer models are not wired that way, I would surmise that the power coming from the relay would activate some sort similar physical switch in the starter/solenoid package so as to isolate the high amperage starter current from the relay circuits, correct ?

 

[Hoople]

I would surmise that the power coming from the relay would activate some sort similar physical switch in the starter/solenoid package so as to isolate the high amperage starter current from the relay circuits

The picture in PDF #2 would be the same except the solenoid coil would not have a "tap" in order to make 1 winding into 2. One side of the coil would get grounded. Other side would be the Green wire going to the starter relay. The large brass washer mounted on the tail of the plunger would still serve as switch contacts to throw the large current of the starter motor.

 

[R_W_B]

. . . . . . . The large brass washer mounted on the tail of the plunger would still serve as switch contacts to throw the large current of the starter motor.

Ah ok, so (if I understand correctly) even if it was activated by the relay, a sticking solenoid would still in fact "hold" battery current to the starter thru the physical contact in the solenoid no matter whether it was the old or new way of wiring. Thanks Bubbie I have learned some internals (with the help of Hoop) I did not know before.

Only thing puzzling me now is why disconnecting the battery caused the solenoid to unstick, unless it was not physically sticking enough to hold once the holding coil current was released, I can see that. Or maybe Jack's carbon tracking was involved.

 

[R_W_B]

You know that second PDF Hoople posted up is just interesting all over the place and makes my inquistive mind run rampant. I fear I may be going off into foobarred outer boundaries but the following is what appears to be happening to me, when I look at it.

First off there appears to be 2 sets of coils on the solenoid shaft, the pull in coil and the holding coil. So the power from the relay (or starter button or whatever) comes thru and causes the solenoid shaft to move inwards thereby connecting the internal solenoid high amp contacts that engages the starter motor. Then at the same time, that (to me) sends the path of the pull in coil back thru the starter, nullifing the "pull in" coils action.

That leaves only the holding coil to hold the solenoid shaft engaged. This remaining hold continues only as long as the starter butter is held. Once the starter button is released the current going to the remaining holding coil drops and the only thing left to keep it stuck is the faulty disengagement springs in the soleniod assembly.

So having said that either Jacks carbon tracking OR a stuck relay coil is still holding the "holding coil" current on thereby not allowing the disengagement springs to do their job.

Because if the disengagement springs were the only thing holding them after the starter button was released, why would the disconnecting the battery cause it to release. Or to put it another way, if the relay is not bad it has to be carbon tracking. What thinks thou more astute minds to this hypothesis ?

 

[btsom]

Does the trigger wire stay hot after the start button is released? If so, that would point toward the starter relay or the start button switch.

 

[R_W_B]

I'd pop the relay first and test it, that's the easiest one to eliminate. Better check your schematics though on the polarity of the coil terminals. Hoop says some of them come with a clamping diode even though HD doesn't show them in the schematic.

 

[Jack Klarich]

The picture in PDF #2 would be the same except the solenoid coil would not have a "tap" in order to make 1 winding into 2. One side of the coil would get grounded. Other side would be the Green wire going to the starter relay. The large brass washer mounted on the tail of the plunger would still serve as switch contacts to throw the large current of the starter motor.

Ah ok, so (if I understand correctly) even if it was activated by the relay, a sticking solenoid would still in fact "hold" battery current to the starter thru the physical contact in the solenoid no matter whether it was the old or new way of wiring. Thanks Bubbie I have learned some internals (with the help of Hoop) I did not know before.

Only thing puzzling me now is why disconnecting the battery caused the solenoid to unstick, unless it was not physically sticking enough to hold once the holding coil current was released, I can see that. Or maybe Jack's carbon tracking was involved.

This is where you will see the affects of the carbon tracking. It may show as pits. You can in most cases turn the disc over and use the other side, In the old days we rebuilt all our own, now a days seems like they want to throw parts at it til it is fixed:s

 

[eng23ine]

I had this same problem last summer on my '07 FLHX.....ended up being the start button on the hand controls. Easy fix ~$50 for the switch.

P.S. I rode mine for a week or so before I fixed it by unhooking the seloniod wire from the starter after she fired up....its the white plastic self locking tab that goes into the starter.