2005 FLHTI no brake light

[fabrozor]

@Webbtron :
Don't be sorry, i thank you very much for you precious help my friend.

 

[Breeze3at]

A quick way to tell if the problem is switch related or bulb related, is to pull the connector (located under the r. side transmission cover) off the rear brake light switch. Put a wire in the 2 slots with the ignition on and see if you have a brake light. No? it's a bulb or wiring problem. Yes? it's switch problem.

 

[fabrozor]

I re-read your original post and saw where you said the Brake light stayed on a very long time then quit working altogether.That happen to my sons '07 Night Train while at Sturgis in '09.What we found was the front brake lever housing to far from the main switch housing.After that was corrected the front brake light was very intermittent but would work occasionally.That problem was the socket pigtail that the bulb plugged into, that then plug into the taillight housing.With the brake light being on so long it heated the housing for the bulb and wouldn't make a good contact.We replaced the small wiring harness and solved the problem.

It makes sens because i removed the bulb and pigtail. And the pigtail plastic turned from grey color to clear brown color arround the bulb, due to the heat.

I looked on http://www.shopronniesharleydavidson.com in the parts finder section. The part # is 69187-03 for the International model.It comes with a new bulb. Yours should have the Wedge type bulb, not a 1157 which is a twist to remove.

Very interressant link you gave here.
Indeed i removed the bulb from my bike and it is a Wagner 12v 3157K.
Looking at your link, i went to "2005" > "FLHTI" > "TAIL LAMP W/ REAR TURN SIGNAL"
I think you name as "pigtail" the part "#15 - BULB SOCKET ASSEMBLY, TAIL LAMP.
So i'll be using the word "pigtail" with meaning the part #15 on the schema.

Don't know if this helps but if you are getting random readings with test light I would consider this. Also on your front switch it barely protrudes out of the hole in the switch housing.The end is rounded,if it is squared off, I'd say it was broken.With the switch pushed in the brake light would be Off, let it extend and brake light On.

I looked at the end of the front switch and it is skared. I anderstand from what you said it is broken. A small part of it still goes out from the housing hole. I wonder if i couldn't glue some plastic thing on it to give it it original lenght.

An easy way to keep from braking them off is to,prior to removal of the brake lever assy.,is pull the brake lever and place piece of small card about 3/16 in. thick between the lever and it's perch(normal resting point).This keeps the paddle(on lever) away from the switch end. I usually use a folded cigarette filter for that.Don't remove your cardboard until you have mounted the lever assy. back to switch assy.

Yes that's written in the manual but i read this part many year after taking wrong habitude. I try to make it right from not long time ago.

Sorry for the long post.Hope this helps. tourbox

Don't be sorry because your post helps a lot ! I thank thee a lot.

- - - -

Some news

I should wear glasses, i tested the fuse with voltmeter and it was out of
order. Looking closer, i could see the fuse gone bad. My bad.

by the way, the pigtail wiring is as bellow.
1 - no wire
2 - blue
3 - red/yellow
4 - black

After i put a new fuse, i removed the pigtail (with bulb) and i tested again with voltmeter directly on the rear fender TAIL LAMP BASE ASSEMBLY (part #10 on the schema). Taking the ground on the Screw/Bolt (part #2 on the schema). As the front switch was removed from handlebar, i knew it was released, as if i was braking, so i should read a voltage on the voltmeter.

1 - ok + 11.5v
2 - ok + 11.5v
3 - ok + 11.5v
4 - ok -

So i plugged the pigtail + bulb (part #15) and i broke some other fuses again. I really must go to the stealer to pay for a full box of new 15A fuses.

I removed the pigtail (let the bulb on it) and tested it with the OhmMeter this time.

tested continuity between 3 and 4 = ok
tested continuity between 2 and 4 = no continuity

So i removed the bulb, rotate it on itself 180 degree, and pluged it again in the pigtail.

tested continuity between 3 and 4 = no continuity
tested continuity between 2 and 4 = ok

Well i came to the conclusion the bulb shall be guilty too.

As the reading result are reverse if i reverse the bulb in the pigtail, i have a question for when i will plug a new bulb.
Is there a good and a bad orientation side of the bulb to plug it in the pigtail ? or can we plug it without taking care of the side it is plugged ?

Well here are the news for tonight.
I wouldn't be there without your help guys. All of you who wrote. Regardless of technical level. Every help is welcome when your feet are in the .... :sfaeces.

 

[fabrozor]

A quick way to tell if the problem is switch related or bulb related, is to pull the connector (located under the r. side transmission cover) off the rear brake light switch. Put a wire in the 2 slots with the ignition on and see if you have a brake light. No? it's a bulb or wiring problem. Yes? it's switch problem.

Thank you Breeze3at.

 

[tourbox]

I would also think you have a problem with the pig tail,unless your blown bulb caused the fuse to blow again. I would also retest the plug on the fender for pin 3(R/Y wire) with switch on.With meter reading 11.5 v, reach up and push the front brake light switch in to see if 11.5 v goes away.It should.With the front switch still depressed,press on the rear brake,11.5 v should appear again.This test ensures both switches are working.
I am not that familiar with the wedge bulbs but I would think the have a particular orientation for their socket.The brake light filament is Brighter than the tail light filament.If you turn the bulb over(180 deg.) then your tail light would be brighter than the brake light.Not good. Also the # in the schematic you want is 44 not 15.If you scroll down to # 44 in the Add Items to Parts list, it shows same name but includes the words International Models. If you have to order it get that and not the Domestic(#15) one.I think someone said they are wired different in one of these reply's.Keep up the good work,you are getting close to the End.
tourbox

 

[fabrozor]

i went to the nearest HD shop to buy a new bulb.
They tested the pigtail and said it was good.
Anyway they did not have a new pigtail in stock.

Well, back home i put new fuse, i plugged the new bulb in the pigtail... Problem still the same...

I took a look closely to the pigtail. I used a little screwdriver to twist the metal part which are supposed to contact the bulb metal parts.
I tested again and it worked ! Darn pigtail.

I could use it like this and try to insert little paper square behind the metal contact to keep them in contact with bulb but it was too risky because of the numerous fuses burnt.

So i called another harley shop and they had 1 pigtail remaining in stock.
I took my bike to buy it before the shop closing.

Back home, it work like a charme.

See the photo of burn and new pigtail :

Well, worked like a charme except for the front brake switch.

When i was at harley shop, i asked for the front brake switch price.
Guess how much it cost here in France !!?
100 euro ! You aren't dreaming ! 100 EUROS ! 125 USD !
I called BigJack Cycle located near Le Mans. He sells an aftermarket switch for ... 10 euros ...
You realise Harley sells 10 times the price of the aftermarket switch ! isn't that crazy ?

So i decided to try to repair the switch, waiting to get an aftermarket later.
So i try to imagine what could fit to replace the broken part of the switch.
I saw this old non working pen on the table, and i cut it. See on the photo the little black plastic dot i cut from the top of the pen activation mecanism.

once cut i polish the surface with sand paper size 600 for the glue to keep contact more easily.

One side has a hole, the other side is flat.
I'll glue the hole side on the switch side, and the flat side in contact with the aluminium brake lever.

I'll test that tomorrow !
For now i deserve a good beer ;-)

 

[tourbox]

Glad you got it fixed. Hope you get your new switch soon and your Quick fix for old switch works. Ronnie's HD showed $59.99 for the swtich
tourbox

 

[fabrozor]

The broken switch :

The repaired switch (pen part glued with SuperGlue). I hope the glue will stand for a long time :

Do not forget to insert a part in the lever befor reassembly to not break the switch again.

 

[Webbtron]

Looks great to me. Bet it isn't long before you forget it's there.

 

[jimharvey1]

Although not a real big fan of having my really expensive motorcycle glued together with superglue, if it works an STAYS working, it's effective, I guess. I'd still be saving my pennies (francs?) for a new switch. The front switch not working isn't as critical as the rear switch as the front brake is usually applied in conjunction with the rear, so if the rear switch works, you would have brake lights.