You may want to replace the main breaker with a 50 amp unit to replace the 40 amp that is in there now. They had problems with the breaker opening prematurely because of age and surrounding heat from the bike.
I agree. The cost is minimal. It does not account for the flashing lights, though.
I have beat up my RKC wiring diagram. There is absolutely no reason for the gas gauge lamp to flash, that I can think of. The light is driven from the same signal, from the sending unit in the tank. The light coming on is entirely internal to the gauge. What I mean is, there is no separate drive line from the ECM or any other unit. On the other hand, if teh bike lost power long enough for the gauge reading to drop to empty, then intermittently returned fromthat point, then the gauge level indicator lamp might flash, as might the check engine lamp...again, pointing at the main breaker, system relay, or some other power connector.
The fuel level sending unit gets its power from the system relay, tapping off of the power to the fuel pump. Fuel pump quits, so does the bike...stone cold and sudden.
Battery, battery cables, main positive connection at the top of your starter, main ground connections, wires to your main circuit breaker, system relay (and assoc. fuse block), harness to tank console connector, internal tank wiring, and all associated crimps and connections. My vote is with Glider...replace the main circuit breaker. It should be right in front of your battery, on the left side, under the seat.
One way to be sure about the circuit breaker is to clip a small meter across the circuit breaker terminals, measuring for around 12vDC. With engine running, you should measure 0v. If the engine quits running, and you measure any significant voltage with the meter, your breaker has opened.
Enjoy,
Rich P