2002 Road King Stalls when Hot

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by codycody, Jul 28, 2011.

  1. codycody

    codycody Member

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    My 2002 Road King Classic FLHRCI runs great but stalls when hot around 250 degrees with the harley electronic dipstick. Dealer changed TPS, IAC, Engine temp sensor, IAT sensor, and crank pos. sensor but problem persists. Throws a code saying loss of combustion in front cylinder. Shut it off 30 seconds starts right back up. This is costing me alot of money and harley dealer says they can't find problem. Any ideas?? Those who are paid to know don't know so shoot me some ideas guys??
     
  2. RibEye

    RibEye Junior Member Contributor

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    More specifics are needed. Here are a a few suggestions:

    1. Stalls when trying to idle? Or when cruising?
    2. Issue all of the sudden, or does it build from rough running to full stalling?
    3. What electrical system indications do you have along with the stalling? Lights, indicators, horn, all keep working?
    4. After stall and restart, does she run fine for a while, or want to quit right away?
    5. Can you keep her running by working the throttle?
    6. How is she configured? All stock? Stage 1? TFI? etc.
    7. Anything else you might notice...

    Thoughts:

    • Coils can become heat sensitive, and tend to malfunction after warmed up.
    • Looking for spark can be sometimes misleading.
    • Lack of combustion codes can also be caused by fuel delivery problems (injectors or more commonly injector wire harness). Intermittent injector connections can masquerade as thermal issues.

    Good luck,
    Rich P
     
  3. codycody

    codycody Member

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    2002 Road King Stalls when Hot

    Stage One with K&N filter, ScreaminEagle racing pipes. Bike runs great but when I return home down my one mile private road at 5mph it will quit. Also will quit once and awhile at 10mph or below at this speed but never at higher speeds. The lights flash and it throws a code no combustion on front cylinder. It takes about 30 seconds to restart and sometimes I have to hold throttle open a bit to keep it going. Most times it runs fine on restart. Have replaced all sensors and fuel filer. Checked and rechecked all connections and a new battery. New plugs too. Bought new wires and ordered a new coil. Relays??? Anything else?

    The bike is fuel injected. I had recent plug fouling from a bad eng. temp. sensor but otherwise the bike runs great.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 29, 2011
  4. RibEye

    RibEye Junior Member Contributor

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    Re: 2002 Road King Stalls when Hot

    You have a likely cause on order. Frustrating, but I would wait and see if replacing the coil (and wires, since you have them on order) fixes the issue.

    Meanwhile, can you describe in detail just exactly how and which lights flash when the issue begins?

    Do you get any warning, like hickups, stutters, when it is going to happen, or does it just quit?

    One thing to note, at 5-10 mph, the engine is jumping around a bit, on its rubber motor mounts. Intermittent injector wire, due to the vibration, from the front connector to the wire harness along the backbone is at risk for scooters like ours.

    The lights flashing just might be a key to find the issue. I don't see how an intermittent injector wire will casue light flashing.

    Rich P
     
  5. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    Re: 2002 Road King Stalls when Hot

    You probably have the problem like most early 2000 year bikes have seen. The front injector wire breaks inside the insulation from being strapped to tight from the factory. It's near the injector plug on the harness and if you wiggle the wire you will probably see a miss when the wire breaks connectivity. It's usually within an inch or two of the plug on the end of the harness.
    Slow speeds make the engine vibrate more and that's why it's 5-10 MPH when it happens. This condition is why you are getting the "no combustion" code too.
     
  6. codycody

    codycody Member

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    2002 Road King Stalls when Hot

    I will install the new ignition coil and wires in the morning. Before I do I'll give those wires a jiggle to see if any fault is exposed. Truly appreciate any leads as this has become expensive and I've been bled enough by the dealers mechanics to no resolution. Here in the Pacific Northwest prime bike season is skidding by without me. I will follow up with the solution when I find it and post. Thanks guys!

    The bike suddenly quits with no warning, no stumbling, no idle malfunction. Its like someone hit the kill switch. There seem to be two lights, one on each side of the speedometer flashing in unison and the light on the fuel cap flashing all together. Must pull over and wait at least 30 seconds for a restart which may be normal or with idle too low and require some throttle to keep running. Only happens when at full operating temperature around 250 degrees. Both plugs may show some EQUAL black soot fouling with around 25mpg economy or plugs may be clean with 38-42mpg. Intermittent problem that would come and go but now constant.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 30, 2011
  7. RibEye

    RibEye Junior Member Contributor

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    Do you notice anything funny when riding on rough roads?

    Are the lights flashing are in the speedometer proper, or in the indicator bar below the speedometer, in the dash panel?

    If in the speedometer, what icons are illuminated? "Security Key" and "Check Engine"? If in the indicator bar, which indicators? Turn signal indicators?

    The only indicator I can think of in fuel gauge is the "Low Fuel" indicator. is that what is flashing?

    Do you have a security system? If so, stock or aftermarket?

    Enjoy,
    Rich P
     
  8. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    You may want to replace the main breaker with a 50 amp unit to replace the 40 amp that is in there now. They had problems with the breaker opening prematurely because of age and surrounding heat from the bike.
     
  9. RibEye

    RibEye Junior Member Contributor

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    I agree. The cost is minimal. It does not account for the flashing lights, though.

    I have beat up my RKC wiring diagram. There is absolutely no reason for the gas gauge lamp to flash, that I can think of. The light is driven from the same signal, from the sending unit in the tank. The light coming on is entirely internal to the gauge. What I mean is, there is no separate drive line from the ECM or any other unit. On the other hand, if teh bike lost power long enough for the gauge reading to drop to empty, then intermittently returned fromthat point, then the gauge level indicator lamp might flash, as might the check engine lamp...again, pointing at the main breaker, system relay, or some other power connector.

    The fuel level sending unit gets its power from the system relay, tapping off of the power to the fuel pump. Fuel pump quits, so does the bike...stone cold and sudden.

    Battery, battery cables, main positive connection at the top of your starter, main ground connections, wires to your main circuit breaker, system relay (and assoc. fuse block), harness to tank console connector, internal tank wiring, and all associated crimps and connections. My vote is with Glider...replace the main circuit breaker. It should be right in front of your battery, on the left side, under the seat.

    One way to be sure about the circuit breaker is to clip a small meter across the circuit breaker terminals, measuring for around 12vDC. With engine running, you should measure 0v. If the engine quits running, and you measure any significant voltage with the meter, your breaker has opened.

    Enjoy,
    Rich P
     
  10. kpstar212

    kpstar212 Member

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    Brother in law had the same issue. Ended up changing the spark plugs and problem ent away.