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2000 Road King with Sidecar Stops Running/Won't Start

Hoople,
Thanks for diagnostic test info. I'll try them tomorrow. Step #1 seems pretty straight forward. If I move own to Step #2, what cables exactly am I removing from the battery (what am I disconnecting) before I perform the resistance test?

Dumb question probably, but...


Lyle
 
Lightnin Lyle said:
what cables exactly am I removing from the battery
Click to expand...

I want you to remove the two cables (positive & negative) from the battery.

The reason why is because the ECM has "switched" and "unswitched" voltages going to it. Even though the key may be OFF, the ECM still has "keep Alive" power going to it. If you were to remove the 36 pin ECM connector while the battery was still attached, a voltage spike might hit the ECM.
By disconnecting the battery BEFORE you remove the 36 pin ECM connector, you will be safe.

I can understand if some of this is uncomfortable for you. If it is, don't attempt it. If you want to know the truth, I will almost bet you pass both tests and my money is on having no fuel pump pressure.

Lets just say you DO pass both tests. Then based on what you said in entry point #7 ("99% chance fuel pump is priming), if the problem WAS electrical, it only can be 1 of 3 things. Either the ECM is blown, which I feel is not the case, BOTH injectors are clogged, which I also don't think is the case or the spark you have at the plugs is not in phase w/ the crank due to the CAM sensor being bad,,,but that's a long shot also. (we can test the cam sensor if your up to it)

I think electrically your fine. I think the problem is lack of fuel pressure. The pump may be spinning but either a hose or the pressure regulator in the tank is leaking. It sure all relates back to that for me. The fact you can prime the throttle body and it runs for a second, proves a bunch of parts and sensors ARE working. I just did not want to make a far reaching call until you checked some basics.

Yes, there is one proof positive electrical test we can make, but a break-out is required. If we just knew for a fact you were getting a ground shot signal from the ECM on pin 18 & 24 during cranking, that would be all we needed to know for conclusive evidence that your problem is absolutely NOT electrical. But that test is too hard to check without the right tools.

So based on "passing" those 2 tests and what we know so far, it sure sounds like something in the tank to me.
 
I have no advice for you, But have been following this tread, And Looking forward to the outcome, Without a Doubt you'll get her goin. This is a great web site, and has saved me ton's of money.. Thanks to all of you for sharing your knowledge..
 
Hoople,
So, I conducted the first test (the hardest part was getting the tank elevated high enough so I could drop the coil down for testing). Well, long story short... I got nothing, a zilch reading with the red lead on the B pin of the ignition coil and the black lead ground to the bike's frame. Same when cranking... no readout whatsoever.

I know the multimeter is functioning and the coil seemed to pass a simple continuity test, but a resistance test also revealed nothing (this could be due to operator error, however).

I can't imagine the coil being shot when there's spark to the plug wires and the engine runs on starting fluid.

Again, am I missing something really obvious here due to my ignorance of most things electric/electronic?

Thanks for all your help!
Lyle
 
A couple of thoughts, Did the codes come up during the ride when the bike quit or while running the bike on starter fluid through the throttle body?

Did you have to remove the fuel tank to install the side car? Is the fuel quick disconnect locked in properly at the petcock?

If you do not have enough fuel pressure the injectors will not fire properly.
 
You don't check ECM codes with the speedometer button on a 2000 HD.

Turn the ignition switch on and off three times and the fourth time leave it on.

The engine light will flash rapidly. Then it will pause then flash slowly. Count the slow flashes and write them down. There will be two sets of slow flashes. That will be the trouble code number.

If more than one code is present the second code number will be proceeded by a rapid flash.

When the codes begin to repeat it means all the codes have been reported.
 
Thanks for you continued insights!

Ajayrk--your description is exactly how I got the three codes from the ECM; thanks for your clarification, though, as there is some confusion regarding the exact methodology

mgierman39--the codes were extracted after the bike quit running and were then cleared from the ECM. No codes are present, now, after the bike fires and runs on the starter fluid or when just cranking the motor over without it starting starting... appears to be spark to the cables but still no gas to the injectors

Any next steps are greatly appreciated. I have been wrenching on my Harleys since 1976, but this is the first EFI with all the electronic sensors and modules, etc., so the whole TSM, ECM, BAS alphabet soup is a little troublesome, but I can read a schematic and am pretty good at following directions.

So... any thoughts?

Thanks again.

Lightnin' Lyle
 
I reread your post and see that code 41 was set, cam position sensor.

From experience with a 2001 R/K that had starting problems the replacement of the cps fixed that problem. We pulled the ecm harness plug apart and back probed the wires to run the diagnostics per the manual. The wires are marked on the plug and you use it like a breakout box.

After the cps sensor was replaced the bike would start but there was a drive ability problem. The head temperature sensor was also faulty. Replaced it and all is well.

Both the hts & cps are easy to replace. The cps is plugged in under the right side cover.

Unplug and removes the wires from the plug and fasten a wire to the plug wires and pull the wires through the harness with the wire attached so that you can pull the new sensor wires back through the harness.

Cps is under the round cover on the cam chest cover.
 
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