2000 Heritage Springer Electrical problems

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by maverick2076, Apr 30, 2012.

  1. maverick2076

    maverick2076 Member

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    Guys, I need your expertise. I'm having some ongoing electrical issues that have both me and my mechanic completely stumped. I hope one of you can help. Here's the rundown:

    1. 16 January. Rode the bike from Houston to San Antonio to see my sister. On the ride back, I started losing all electical power. Lights, engine, gauges, everything would flicker off and on randomly and erratically. I could stop, pull over and sit, and it wouldn't do it for a while, but as soon as the bike warmed up (around 215 degrees), it would start again. I ended up getting towed back from Gonzales.

    2. I took it to the local HD shop, since it supposedly has a warranty. They told me there were loose wires in the ignition switch and that was the problem. I picked the bike up from the shop, started to ride home, and it started cutting out on me again 10 miles down the road as I was switching lanes in rush-hour traffic. I was NOT pleased. It went back to the dealership, and this time they replaced the voltage regulator.I picked it back up on Friday, Jan. 20. Everything seemed to be fine.

    3. 10 days later, I dropped the bike off at my local shop (not the "dealer"ship). After a couple of issues about warranty coverage and the way the service manager had acted, I vowed never to take the bike back to the dealership. My local is an awesome guy who's been working on bikes for years. The local had the bike for 2 weeks, in which they did the 40K service and changed the stock handlebars out to Wild One WO510's. I picked the bike up on 16 FEB.

    4. On about 20 FEB, I started having an issue where, when I got the bike up to about 60-65, I would lose the ignition power to the engine. I wouldn't lose the lights or gauges, but the power would cut off to the engine. If I flipped the ignition switch off and then back on, the bike would come right back on. This problem was very sporadic. It would happen 2 or 3 times in a few miles, and then wouldn't do it for several days. I took it back to my local. They went through the wiring in the handlebars, and then through all the wiring connections. They tightened everything up, put dielecric grease in all the connectors, and made sure everything was OK. They could find nothing wrong.

    5. After I picked the bike up, everything was OK for a few days, and it started cutting ignition power again, randomly. I took it back to my shop. They replaced the ignition switch (no charge) and I had them put in a new battery. Picked it up and rode for about a week with no problems. Finally I thought we had it licked. I was wrong.

    6. On 1 April, we rode up to Round Top to see if Royer's really has the best pie in Texas. Early in the trip, it started cutting out the ignition, but it was doing it much more frequently than it had. Stupidly, I decided to press on. We got into Round Top and the bike started completely losing all power again. Lights, ignition, gauges, everything, flickering on and off. Limped the bike back home, dropped it off at the local shop. They came in on a Sunday to take it in from me. By this time, my mechanic is really frustrated and apologetic.

    7. I picked the bike up on 4 April. He tested the stator and the voltage regulator, which all checked out fine. He replaced the circuit breaker (no charge again). Today, it started dropping the ignition power again. Its back at the shop.

    8. On 18 April, we changed out the CPS and the ICM (again, no charge), and no dice. However, it is a lot more consistent now. Darn near every time I get to 65, the engine loses electrical power. Flip the ignition switch off, flip it back on, and it comes right back on. When I went out to test it this time, my mechanic was folllowing me with his wife on another bike. My bike did its thing 2 or 3 times. I pulled over and let my mechanic on it. We rode another 10 miles, and it didn't do it to him at all. Then I had a flash of genius. MY mechanic is a pretty small guy, so I had his wife get on my bike with him. Bingo! It started doing it to him as well.

    On another, possibly related note: my bike does seem to have an excessive vibration. I've replaced the seat post twice because the ignition coil mount has cracked, and it needs to be replaced again. We are going to be tearing down the motor, probably replacing the counterbalancers, and rebuilding with a 95" kit on the bike shortly, but I would like to fix this electrical problem first.

    I am getting completely frustrated by this series of events. Can someone please provide me some input on how to lick this issue?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 30, 2012
  2. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    Start looking for a shorted wire under the seat and check the battery, Have you checked the main breaker?
     
  3. maverick2076

    maverick2076 Member

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    As I said in my post, the battery is new and the circuit breaker has been replaced.
     
  4. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    Have they checked that the motor is grounding, and verified the kill switch is NOT the problem, no burned wires going to coil?
     
  5. maverick2076

    maverick2076 Member

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    W'eve checked and double checked the kill switch wiring and found no problems. We haven't found any issues in the main grounds. I don't know if he has checked the wires going to the coil or not.
     
  6. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    Electrical problems will drive you crazy, I have always started @ the battery and worked through each system one at a time it takes time but if you start at the source you will find the problem, Good Luck and let us know I had an old Shovel head do that it ended up being a shorted wire to the coil, would only cut out after a long hot ride Do you have a coil cover on just wondering I have seen them vibrate and short out the coil
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2012
  7. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    From what you said about the bike having an ICM, I take it that the bike is not FI. Is that correct?
    In entry point 1- step # 8 of this thread, you said the CPS & ICM was replaced, and no dice. Does that mean that those 2 parts were replaced and the bike still failed once again? If that is True, because the bike continued to fail, were the old/original parts once again put back into the bike? At this time are the original parts installed in the bike?
    Also, were these replacement parts "used but good" and not brand new? I can't imagine they were brand new parts since they was a "no charge" attached to them.
    So this bike has a carburetor, and is using a standard factory ignition system and coil. It doesn't have any electrical mods, add on toggle switches or power jacks and for the most part is factory stock.
     
  8. maverick2076

    maverick2076 Member

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    The bike is carb'd. The replacement parts are brand new. They are still in the bike. I wasn't charged because that is the kind of guy my mechanic is. He isn't going to charge me for a problem he hasn't fixed. At most, he asks me to help him out around the shop or to bring him some beer.
     
  9. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Ok...
    Remove the seat and locate the ICM. There should be two connectors (1 gray & 1 black) going to the ICM. Each connector has 12 positions which may not be fully populated.
    Black connector wire position # 10 should be a Green w/ gray wire. If it is, continue. (If not reply to thread).

    With the engine running, take your voltmeter and measure the voltage on the Green/gray wire (backprobe connector) using frame ground or battery negative as reference. Record the voltage you measured.

    Now turn off the engine, and unplug both connectors going to the ICM. Turn ON the ignition key and with the grip Run/kill switch to RUN, once again measure the voltage on the green/gray wire (only this time both ICM connectors are unplugged from the ICM). Record the voltage you measured.

    What are the values you measured.
     
  10. maverick2076

    maverick2076 Member

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    We've got the tank and back tire off going through the wiring, so it might be a day or two before I can try this test. What is it exactly that you have me testing for and what results should I be looking for?