2 Clutch Question

Discussion in 'Touring Models' started by revok1200, Nov 21, 2013.

  1. revok1200

    revok1200 Active Member

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    Looking for some info from the forum on this possible clutch issue?

    2006 Road Glide with a 95" upgrade.

    1. While sitting still with bike in gear and clutch pulled in, if I rev the engine the bike will lunge forward slightly.

    If I keep the revs up 2000 approx. the bike will try to pull forward.

    I have adjusted the clutch and cable by the book several times and still have same result.

    2. When adjusting the clutch adjuster screw, the book says to back it out 1/2 to 1 turn. I have tried 1/2, 3/4, and 1 full turn and have had the same result.

    Any good ideas or exact causes?

    The clutch hub was replaced earlier this year due to some chipping in the splines, I was told the plates were good at that time.

    Problem started a couple months ago.

    The bike still has the original clutch cable on it and 90K miles on the bike.

    Any ideas or advice will be appreciated as usual.

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. tourbox

    tourbox Senior Member

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    How much free play do you have after adj. the clutch? You should have approx. 1/8" at the cable end at the perch. When I adj. the cable I will pull it 4-5 times then re-check the free play,adj. again then re-pull 4-5 times until I'm happy with the free play. By pulling it several times it seats the balls in the ramp and takes up slop from the cable also.
    You could also have a warped clutch plate. With 90K on the cable it wouldn't hurt to change it out. While you have cover off for the cable replacement I would replace the throw out bearing assembly also.
    tourbox
     
  3. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member

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    My very first thought was the cable and Not so much it is worn enough to replace but the adjustment of OR IF new grips or leather tossels on the handle blocking the FULL SQUEEZE of the clutch handle...

    It doesn't take Much to make a difference...

    I'd TRY this.. "TRY" Tighten that cable adjustment to a touching fit,,, No Play... Then see IF that did the deed.

    IF So, You can keep it a Little bit tighter than the Book...

    You will want at least a 1/16 free-play at the handle to ferrule...for the final setting.

    Let me know IF you can get the Lurch out of it by this (TEMPORARY) tight adjustment of the cable...:s

    signed....BUBBIE
     
  4. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    What primary lube are you using and is it over filled?
     
  5. revok1200

    revok1200 Active Member

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    The free play at the lever is correct 1/16 - 1/8th.

    I am using the Harley primary fluid and the level is good.

    I forgot to mention that when the bike warms up there seems to be a significant more amount of play in the cable. When cold it only has a slight amount of slack.

    Nothing new has been added and there is nothing prohibiting a full pull to the grip.

    When preparing to adjust the clutch, could I be introducing too much freeplay into the cable and then when I go to pull the lever to set the balls it has too much slack? I do loosen the cable adjuster quite a bit.

    I will tighten up the play in the cable and see if it makes a difference and then let you all know what the result is.
     
  6. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member

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    I am careful about the cable routing on my bike. I have noticed a few times on my 09 King that IF the cable is changed in Position (slid down or up) the cable adjustment Does change a little... I use a tight cable adjustment and try for the 1/16 Max. up to only 3/32"... This is almost impossible to be that Anal on adjusting but I try...:shock :small3d026:

    On my bike Also: it is very hard to keep a 1/16 adjustment.. Once there and watching the cable to keep it in the same routing position IS Necessary...

    I have also tried to get the clutch to Pull IN a little more
    (just to see "IF" it clunks ass much and IT doesn't).

    I have even PULLED and held clutch cable OUT a longer distance away from the ferrule (using brut force) AND Yes, that little bit helped...

    That is why I suggested that....

    Now with my SE clutch spring in....Forget that experiment from happening.....

    I am under the thinking that some Clutch Handles pull out more cable than others so "I" have that tight setting needed...

    One has to be very careful so the throw out Balls are not in constant use or they will wear-out early on in life.

    I always try to count to 5 full seconds and No blipping the throttle After clutch pulled in before I shift to 1st on a take-off from Neutral. This seems to help.

    I use Redline ShockProof Heavy in the tranny and never ever have ANY metal on the magnetic plug from all the Clunking it does. 74,000 miles and still working great.
     
  7. tourbox

    tourbox Senior Member

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    revok1200 you stated in post #5 " I do loosen the cable adjuster quite a bit.". I will always put 100% slack in the adjuster prior to adjusting the center screw. The clutch should be cold, room temp., and the front tire straight also. Good advice in above post. You'll get it figured out yet.
    tourbox
     
  8. quadancer

    quadancer Member

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    05' Heritage here, carbed, but there may be similarities. I love my 2-finger clutch, so 1/8" at the lever isn't working for you as it should, so I would assume there is a problem elsewhere...Danged if it might be out of adjustment clutch pack, but hey, nothin else has worked, right?
    Who knows what half stoned high school dropout set it up.
     
  9. revok1200

    revok1200 Active Member

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    Ok, I have been through several adjsutments this morning and think I have gotten it the best I can.

    I have the clutch adjustment screw out 1 full turn and approx 1/16" at the ferule. Freeplay at lever tight when cold and when warms up just a little at the lever.

    When cold no lurch at all, when hot, just the slightest of a lurch if you rev it up. I wish it was gone completely, but I can live with what it is now and don't want to mess up this adjustment tyring to make it better.

    Bubbie,

    I tried what I think you were suggesting by having very little to almost no clearance at the ferul and adjusted the freeplay almost completely out of the cable and it lurched even worse, could almost ride away with the clutch pulled.

    Put about 1/16th and played with the cable freeplay/length adjuster and finally found a spot I am comfortable with that seems to work.

    I like the friction zone closer to the grip, but had to adjust it out farther, I will just have to adapt.

    Bubbie, from your first post it sounded like you had another thought as well, or did I just read into your post to much.

    Now the question is do I replace the cable w/ 90K on it or leave it???? I checked it over before all thje adjusting this morning and don't see any fraying, lubed it up and it feels great, almost like new.



    Thanks to everyone for all the advice and help, thats why I love this forum.
     
  10. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member

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    Some times the cable will wear a little inside the outer housing (casing)... Some have said they turn the cable outer housing 180* to get the rub on a fresh point inside That housing...
    (mark where it is now and turn 180*)

    Beats a new cable right now,,,,Doesn't it?...???

    ? if that will work?

    I would have thought Tight at the clutch-handle = MORE Pull and Less Lurch...

    You are probably going to have to use it the way it is now as it sounds Respectable...:D

    Might even better after a few rides...

    signed....BUBBIE