1996 FLHTCI Stalling out

Discussion in 'Touring Models' started by studley1, May 25, 2009.

  1. studley1

    studley1 New Member

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    I hope that someone can help me with this problem. The dealer sure can't find anything wrong. Here's what's happening.
    While driving down the highway at highway speeds, the bike will shut it self off and start it self back up. The bike lurches forward when it shuts off and snaps back up when it starts back up. It's an intermittent problem. Happened last Sept. It did it all the way home. About 20 miles, had no choice as it was a Sunday night and I had nobody around to pick me up. The check engine light never came on. I ended up riding it all winter as I procrastinated about getting it to the dealer. It didn't do it again. So, I figured what ever it was must have been a computer glitch that corrected itself. Well just last week it happened again, only this time I got a steady check engine light. Took it straight to the dealer this time thinking it had to have stored some fault codes. They ran diagnostic checks and retrieved zero codes. They checked the fuel injection system as well as the ignition system. My question is have any of you ever experienced this type of problem before?
    I'm just about to the point that I don't trust the bike anymore. I'll have to sell it. No reason owning a bagger that you can't leave town on.
     
  2. 2000classic

    2000classic Active Member

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    What else happens when bike kills? Lites go out or not? Could be a main circuit breaker overheats killing bike and allows it to restart when it cools. Could be loose connector somewhere. At ignition switch maybe? Others here will give you more suggestions. Good luck!
     
  3. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    Try replacing the main breaker with a 50 amp. There was problems with the breakers back then and the heat from the motor only aggravated the situation more and they opened up while riding as they got older.
     
  4. studley1

    studley1 New Member

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    I replaced the 50 AMP C/B. The bike had a 40 AMP in it. Why would it have a 40 AMP & not a 50AMP. The bikes never been touched as far as I know. The previous owner installed a bunch of rear lights. Can't emagine he'd put in a lower AMP C/B'er.

    Haven't had a chance to put any real mileage yet. I'll let you know how it turn's out.

    Any idea's as to why it didn't pop any codes even though I had a steady Check Engine Light?
     
  5. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    They came stock with a 40A and they found it wasn't enough in some cases so they upped it to 50A
     
  6. 00ultra

    00ultra New Member

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    The problem I had on my 2000 Ultra was with the 40a main breaker. Harleys answer was to replace with a 50a breaker. But that only lasted until the heat weakened the thermal spring in the new breaker. I got tired of running down the road and having everthing go dead when I was doing 80 on the freeway. So I put a regular automotive 40 amp fuse in parallel with the thermal fuse and ran the wiring long enough to reach and place the fuse in the side cover (for easy access) didn't want to have to pull the seat off in case the fuse blew. Has NEVER died on me since. And that was over three years ago. A thermal fuse was a good idea had it not been for the placement. (under the seat by the rear cyclinder) Just my $.02