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Jack Klarich
Guest
Nose cone is where the ignition pick up is right side of bike
1984 FXRSDG shuts down
- Thread starter pnew122
- Start date
Nose cone is where the ignition pick up is right side of bike
Hoople
Account Removed
Trust me, I am not either because I have only owned a Harley for 1 year and it is a late model one so we are in the same boat.
See the picture you uploaded. The Trigger unit is #8. The trigger unit (#8) has some electronics on it along with several solder joints that must be "tested" with some heat. The ignition module does not look like much but there is a city of electronics in it. Integrated circuits are cities within themselves.
Thermal intermittent problems are very common to PCB boards like what we have here.
Remember these tests are not "proof positive" but they are all we have available to us at the moment. I don't know what those parts retail for or if your at the point where money is no object and you just want the bike fixed.
You really did not say if you wanted to fix your bike using the time consuming inexpensive way or the quick expensive way.
Sorry.
Still not sure what the nose cone is?
My pics end in 800 #'s so not sure which is 8. I'm calling it a coil but is it pic 894?
The one where the spark plug wires hook up?
So to get this straight. Start the bike cold and after taking the choke off hold a hair dryer close to the coil and see if it chokes. How long?
After that, move to the ignition module. Same amount of time above?
Thanks
Oh, since we are close enough to winter, and they had the bike for a month to fix the fuel plastic cap whatever and never checked anything else, I prefer to fix this myself. I looked at the madule and the coil, and those puppies aren't cheap. Saw a used module for 70 bucks on Ebay, so might bookmark it just in case.
Still not sure what the nose cone is?
My pics end in 800 #'s so not sure which is 8. I'm calling it a coil but is it pic 894?
The one where the spark plug wires hook up?
So to get this straight. Start the bike cold and after taking the choke off hold a hair dryer close to the coil and see if it chokes. How long?
After that, move to the ignition module. Same amount of time above?
Thanks
Oh, since we are close enough to winter, and they had the bike for a month to fix the fuel plastic cap whatever and never checked anything else, I prefer to fix this myself. I looked at the madule and the coil, and those puppies aren't cheap. Saw a used module for 70 bucks on Ebay, so might bookmark it just in case.
Hoople
Account Removed
It does look like #1 is a rivet.
Well heat the module 1st and see what happens.
I am really surprised that rivets were used for that nose cone cover. Drilling out rivets to get at a electronic senor plate does seem strange to me but that's what it looks like from the picture. There is a question I wish I had the answers to. Item #10 (rotor) looks to be either a led-photocell chopper or magnetic reluctance. It could be either from the window design it shows. Does the manual talk about the topology that is used?
If that crankshaft oil seal (#11) was leaking at all, it would really mess things up if it was photocell. I am guessing it must be reluctance for better reliability.
Ignition modules, coils and trigger plates can easily take 200* F by design so a hair dryer (not heat gun) should be no match for those items. You can also tap on them with the handle end of a screwdriver. Subject it to what it normally sees (vibration/heat) while on the bike. Try heating up the coil also. If you get each one up to, and beyond operating temps and you see no response you will have to open up that nose cone to get at that sensor plate.
**Like I said, this work may be a waste of time but from where I am (no touch, no see, no smell, no hear) it sure does appear to be ignition related. If I could ride the bike, I could be more positive about what it was... but I think your on a good path.
Well heat the module 1st and see what happens.
I am really surprised that rivets were used for that nose cone cover. Drilling out rivets to get at a electronic senor plate does seem strange to me but that's what it looks like from the picture. There is a question I wish I had the answers to. Item #10 (rotor) looks to be either a led-photocell chopper or magnetic reluctance. It could be either from the window design it shows. Does the manual talk about the topology that is used?
If that crankshaft oil seal (#11) was leaking at all, it would really mess things up if it was photocell. I am guessing it must be reluctance for better reliability.
Ignition modules, coils and trigger plates can easily take 200* F by design so a hair dryer (not heat gun) should be no match for those items. You can also tap on them with the handle end of a screwdriver. Subject it to what it normally sees (vibration/heat) while on the bike. Try heating up the coil also. If you get each one up to, and beyond operating temps and you see no response you will have to open up that nose cone to get at that sensor plate.
**Like I said, this work may be a waste of time but from where I am (no touch, no see, no smell, no hear) it sure does appear to be ignition related. If I could ride the bike, I could be more positive about what it was... but I think your on a good path.
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2000classic
Active Member
Those are rivets on the nose cone. If memory serves, I believe they can be replaced with screws when done.
I hate to take those rivets out unless I have to. The casing is so thick, I doubt a hair dryer will get the housing or the plate hot enough. That said, any harm (or logical sense) with heating the coil 1st, move to the ignition module 2nd, and finish w/the nose cone?
I see no mention in detail about the rotor.
If that crankshaft oil seal (#11) was leaking at all.
If that were the case me thinks I would see oil or substance running out the cover or somewhere, and I don't.
**Like I said, this work may be a waste of time but from where I am (no touch, no see, no smell, no hear) it sure does appear to be ignition related. If I could ride the bike, I could be more positive about what it was... but I think your on a good path.
I'd be happy to stick in in an envelope and mail it to you. LOL
I see no mention in detail about the rotor.
If that crankshaft oil seal (#11) was leaking at all.
If that were the case me thinks I would see oil or substance running out the cover or somewhere, and I don't.
**Like I said, this work may be a waste of time but from where I am (no touch, no see, no smell, no hear) it sure does appear to be ignition related. If I could ride the bike, I could be more positive about what it was... but I think your on a good path.
I'd be happy to stick in in an envelope and mail it to you. LOL
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Jack Klarich
Guest
If you dont want to remove the rivets, probe the wires going into the cone to see if you have constant power, may even use the light bulb test here and get the same results if it is breaking down under load or heat you will find out for sure
Hope I figure this out soon. Found both the ignition mod & Coil on Ebay cheap.
1984 HARLEY DAVIDSON FXR COIL & WIRES: eBay Motors (item 220626038596 end time Sep-19-10 13:35:53 PDT)
I think a new one is about 200
HARLEY EVO all BT models electronic ign. module '84-'87: eBay Motors (item 160477161270 end time Oct-04-10 22:28:03 PDT)
I believe this is frpm 250-400
Good idea jack. I do have a tester light w/a point. Again, hoping to find an issue w/the coil or ign mod so I don't have to mess w/those rivets.
Thanks again to everyone here. Really learning a lot.
Paul
1984 HARLEY DAVIDSON FXR COIL & WIRES: eBay Motors (item 220626038596 end time Sep-19-10 13:35:53 PDT)
I think a new one is about 200
HARLEY EVO all BT models electronic ign. module '84-'87: eBay Motors (item 160477161270 end time Oct-04-10 22:28:03 PDT)
I believe this is frpm 250-400
Good idea jack. I do have a tester light w/a point. Again, hoping to find an issue w/the coil or ign mod so I don't have to mess w/those rivets.
Thanks again to everyone here. Really learning a lot.
Paul