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15000 mile oil change.

Davidw2415

Senior Member
I did my 15,000 mile oil change today. I had been changing every 2500 but this go around based on Smitty's opinion I went a full 5000 miles. I've been using Mobil-1 for the last 10,000 miles. The results are that the oil drained out was still very translucent and there was absolutely no sign of metal shavings on the drain pug magnet. So Two thumbs up for Mobil-1; which was purchased at Advance Auto Parts for $9.99 per quart.

Dave
 
I did my 15,000 mile oil change today. I had been changing every 2500 but this go around based on Smitty's opinion I went a full 5000 miles. I've been using Mobil-1 for the last 10,000 miles. The results are that the oil drained out was still very translucent and there was absolutely no sign of metal shavings on the drain pug magnet. So Two thumbs up for Mobil-1; which was purchased at Advance Auto Parts for $9.99 per quart.

Dave

Use your own judgement, but I would treat 5000 miles as the TOP end of any change interval to be adjusted based on riding frequency, temperature changes, dust conditions, gas used, etc. The more start/stops you make in terms of running the bike, and the amount of time the engine spends idling should go into your decision-making on oil change frequency.

TQ
 
Changing oil with less than 5,000 is a waist of good oil when using any of the high quality synthetic oils. Oil and filter every 5k and your engine is happy.
 
The results are that the oil drained out was still very translucent

Kinda makes you wonder where the by-products of combustion are going. Oil does not get Black or Dirty on it's own. It get dirty because it is trapping and holding the by-products of combustion that get past the rings (which does and will happen to the best of engines) until you drain the oil. If the oil drains translucent it would make me wonder if the carbon is still in the engine.

I'm with you TQ. I would never go to 5K on a change. My oil drain dark brown at 2500.
 
Amen Hoop...engine oil has detergents and dispersants to keep that stuff afloat. I too would be a little worried if the motor oil came out after 5000 miles clear and translucent, did you warm up the engine throughly before draining? My oil goes in pale honey color, and even at 3,000 miles comes out dark brown amber.

Compare that to what drains out the tranny or primary...which goes in clear pale gold color and comes out the same...even when remove the primary cover and wipe out the inside carefully at 6,000 miles (every other oil change) with no metal particles on the magnet.
 
Changing oil with less than 5,000 is a waist of good oil when using any of the high quality synthetic oils. Oil and filter every 5k and your engine is happy.

+1........oil does not need to be changed as often as it was back in the old days when lead was added to your gas.
 
Oil changes are scheduled on average use of the vehicle during the warm up period of an engine excess fuel is delivered to the engine this in turn will thin the oil in the upper bore
that oil drains back into the main oil reservoir mixing with the oil there and as such reducing the effectiveness of the oil now if you are doing a lot of short journeys the oil changes should be increased
however if you are doing a daily run of start bike warm up drive 500 miles the sure the oil will last longer and you can extend your oil change interval
However its your bike you decide ill keep changing mine at 3000

Brian
 
+1........oil does not need to be changed as often as it was back in the old days when lead was added to your gas.

Is that statement as it applies to a water cooled engine? If so I agree. The late model automobile engines of today are so well made, heat up so fast and REMAIN at 1 temperature, you can get away with changing the oil every 5K. I do on my cage.

But on a an air cooled engine that is as loose and sloppy as the current "96" engines are,,,not for me. Just the fact that the running temperature of these engines swing 120* from city to highway driving in itself tells me the clearances are always in a state of "flux". I have recorded cylinder heads temps on my engine that swing from 176* to 315* just from highway moving to => waiting at a street light.

I hear what your saying and I think your correct when applied to a late model water cooled automotive engine. But applied to these engines air cooled engines,,I can not agree. If these bikes had 7 quart oil pans, I could understand. But for the cost of 3 quarts, I feel it is good insurance and a chance to see inside the engine in order to give you a heads up.

But lets face it,, the bottom line has always been.... Your Ride, you decide.
 
I have never gone 5k between oil changes nor will I until Oil becomes too expensive LOL Air cooled requires oil for different reasons than liquid cooled, it has double duty if you will and dont forget about dirty air entering the equation Keep a clean air filterJMO:s
 
Not trying to be a wet blanket but, what you folks are saying is pure opinion and speculation with no facts to back it up.
Unless you can show me some sheets from an oil lab to substantiate your claims, I will maintain according to the factory recommendations.
 
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