1340 EVO base gasket weeping

Discussion in 'Engine, Fuel and Exhaust' started by tomtwix, Oct 23, 2008.

  1. tomtwix

    tomtwix Member

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    I have a 1994 FXDWG with 1340 EVO engine with 41,000 miles on the clock. I am the 3rd owner so I do not know how genuine the mileage is.

    Recently I have noticed oil weeping from the base gasket of the rear cylinder.
    I am wondering if this is a common problem and what is the cure??

    How much would repair cost and what make of gasket should be used as replacement??

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance.

    Tom
     
  2. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    Very common for the evo engines. The heads and cylinders have to come off to replace them.
    James gaskets makes some good gaskets to replace the stock ones.

    Biggest cause of that problem is insufficient warm up time before riding it hard.
     
  3. TQuentin1

    TQuentin1 Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

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    Absolutely, what Glider said. I have a '91 that started "weeping" at the rear base gasket. Ran about 2 years before there was enough slop that the head gasket blew. Then I had NO choice. Unfortunately, there is nothing you can do to fix the base gasket besides what Glider said.

    TQ
     
  4. SledDog

    SledDog Senior Member Staff Member Moderator

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    How much is a weep? If it's a small amount, don't worry about it..

    But do what glider recommends.. Warm it up completely before riding hard or even riding..
     
  5. hntwrobin

    hntwrobin Active Member

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    Very common problem, part of the issue was the original base gaskets themselves coupled with the lack of warm up time. I prefer the cometic base gasket myself. Better made metal with a coating, never had an issue after using them as a replacement. did many of these in the shop when i had it.
     
  6. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    I agree with cometic base gaskets, another good gasket company to use.
     
  7. tomtwix

    tomtwix Member

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    Many thanks to everybody for replies.
    Glad to hear that it is a common problem and not peculiar to my bike alone!!

    When you say gentle warm up do you mean ride off from cold using low revs until engine warms up and no hard acceleration/driving before then?

    I have sometimes let bike warm up in driveway with partial choke to keep it ticking over but found that plugs tend to foul up when I do that and bike spits and farts when I drive off. So I would appreciate your suggestions.

    Thanks again for your time.

    Regards,

    Tom
     
  8. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    Not good to leave the choke/enricher on any more than necessary. It leads to fouled plugs and oil dilution.

    Usually a few minutes (2-3) at idle would be sufficient to get some heat into the engine and then drive off easy and don't rev it high until warmed up. Just drive conservatively till warmed up.
     
  9. wildspirit97

    wildspirit97 Senior Member

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    I know a guy that lets his evo warm up for 15 minutes every time, even if the bikes only been off for a couple of hours.....I think he's nuts! And I know he's not that bright.
     
  10. Fisher

    Fisher Account Removed

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    Over time the cylinder bases warp due to thermal cycling.I machine a few thou off them to make the surface flat and lap for finish.It's also good to run 36 FT-LBS instead of the cylinder head sequence recommended in the manual.Oil the threads of the studs and the underside of the head bolt flange and go in 12-24-36 FT-LB increments.Checking the cylinder stud torque on older engines (and TC110 engines) is a good practice too.To keep the base gaskets from sticking to the cylinders I wipe a thin coating of grease on the gasket before installing.BTW metal base gaskets don't expand at the same rate as the cylinders/heads and cause problems with head gaskets.Just my 2 cents,what do I know?