110 upgrade

[tubguy]

Hello to all members,been a long ti,e since I've posted anything. I currently have an Ultra with the 96 stage1. Im looking at purchasing a pull tent trailer and always ride 2 up.

Apparently it wont have enough power for this application. I was told to upgrade to a 110, I have no idea about any of this stuff other than what i read. Id love to get some input and also the most cost effective way to get this done with the most reliability.

Thanks in advance

 

[dbmg]

While the suggestion makes a valid point, why not try it the way your bike is set up and see how it works. It just might be ok for you and the money saved you can travel more.... Remember there is always downshifting that can gain approx 10HP of additional power for pulling..

 

[dolt]

Hello to all members,been a long ti,e since I've posted anything. I currently have an Ultra with the 96 stage1. Im looking at purchasing a pull tent trailer and always ride 2 up.

Apparently it wont have enough power for this application. I was told to upgrade to a 110, I have no idea about any of this stuff other than what i read. Id love to get some input and also the most cost effective way to get this done with the most reliability.

Thanks in advance

What year is the Ultra? Final drive changed/improved in 09 when the MoCo changed the rear wheel pulley from 66T to 68T. Both are geared to tall IMHO but '09 and later got better.

Going to 110" is not necessary, again JMHO, to meet your goal. There are a couple of ways to achieve your goal much cheaper.

1. A 31T trans pulley and a good torque cam like the SE255, fuel management like TTS Mastertune with a good tune and maybe an exhaust change depending on what you are currently running should do the trick and will be much cheaper.

2. Bore to 103", SE255 cams, fuel management, tune and maybe exhaust. You could always add the 31T trans pulley if more grunt was necessary.

You could start with cams, fuel management, tune and maybe exhaust; if that gets what you want, you're done. If not you have the option of the 31T trans pulley or boring to 103" depending on cost, etc. If one or the other doesn't achieve your goal, add which ever upgrade you passed on, in other words do both if necessary but one before the other.

To build a 110" motor, your cases have to be bored for the larger cylinder spigot which means the top end and the lower unit have to be removed. Once you have gone that far, I would have the crank trued, balanced and welded to stand up to the added load of the larger displacement motor. A very expensive way to go and to take full advantage of the increased displacement, one should seriously consider head work and cams.

Going the 110" route is not necessary to achieve your goal; someone is trying to sell you something you don' t need.:58:

 

[Dr. Dolittle]

I agree with the wise advice you've received so far. I'd try it first just the way you have the bike set up now. As already suggested, you'll probably have to downshift more and/or run higher RPM's than you're used to but that's perfectly OK. This in turn might lead you to thinking about an oil cooler if you don't already have one.

Only if you weren't completely happy at this point would I think about cams and a tuner of your choice or some of the other suggestions.

I truly believe you can get what you want without spending tons of $$$ upgrading to a 110 or even a 103. I see plenty of folks happily riding two up sometimes with a small trailer on their older 96 and 88 inch motors.

Let us know what you decide and how it all works out for you.

 

[HOLY DIVER]

I agree with the above statements 110 is not necessary unless.......unless that's what you want .i know sometimes we kinda need a reason to justify an expensive upgrade that we want. Now a 103 engine with a good cam selection and a good tuner can make well over 100 foot pounds of torque. My last bike was a 96ci had S&S 510 grind cams made 88hp at 98foot pounds of torque I think 100 foot pounds should pull the trailer no problem
But hey if you have your heart set on a 110 engine go for it

 

[Breeze3at]

If you are thinking of a crate engine from dealer with warranty, be advised that HD has taken a HARD line of voiding warranty on any bike with a trailer hitch. If no warranty, disregard.

 

[plow boy]

I think dolt is giving some good advice . I had a rk 103 replaced exhaust with Rush ,255 cams , SE air filter ,SEST tuner. The wife didn't like the sound of the exhaust, nether did I, but I felt that the bike ran like it should have from the factory, before EPA . And with a 31T sprocket it would have pulled like a four hundred dollar government mule, just so you don't get me wrong, that would be a mule to be proud of.

 

[dolt]

If the Ultra is a pre '09 model, I will bet a six pack that you will not be happy with the performance two up, loaded and pulling a trailer; the Ultra is already heavy. The gearing on the pre '09 touring models was just too tall; lots of complaints which is why the wheel pulley was changed in '09. The Ultra is a touring bike and one shouldn't have to be working the gear box to stay in a comfortable power band. No amount of shifting is going to compensate for the too tall gearing for your application.

Bottom line is that, as has been stated, if you just want a 110" motor, knock yourself out. However, your OP indicated that you are interested in "cost effective" and "reliability".

You can approach achieving your goal incrementally to keep the process cost effective and not spend more money than necessary to achieve the goal. You have not mentioned what, if any, fuel management system you have; if you are running the factory Stage I download, fuel management is the first place to start. Fuel management, exhaust, 255 cams and a good tune should get achieve your goal. However, if not more displacement (pure torque) and/or the 31T trans pulley will do the trick.

Let us know model year, exhaust and fuel management and we can take it from there. Whatever you do, don't listen to whoever is telling you that you need a 110" motor to tour two up with a trailer.:58: