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110 hd or 113 s/s

What I can't understand is this. I can't stand still for more than 90 seconds without my "96" overheating. How on earth do you keep a "120" cool in the middle of the summer? What do you do in stop and go traffic. The size of the combustion chamber has a (huge) direct relationship to produced engine heat. Without changing the way to sink or get rid of this heat, what do you do?

A rich mixture will only do so much. Without air movement I can't see how the really big engines get through a summer day with everyday traffic problems, those really long red lights,etc.
You have to have an oil cooler, im not sure if the eitms can be used with the 120 or not, the fan can be added. I went to a concert with my stock 96 and we were stop and go for an hour. the heat was noticeable, it got hot, however, the engine didnt miss a beat, i was nervous. It seams they can handle more heat than perceived. I look at it like this, buy the already built hd engine, sell my stocker and that makes the upgrade much less than doing a kit that relys on the engine techs ability to build it right.
 
TC 96 does not over heat it is a big VTWIN air cooled engine

Smitty, I don't understand. If an engine is water cooled and you don't give it water, it overheats. If an engine is air/oil cooled, and you don't give it moving air, how does the engine not overheat? Even with an oil cooler, (I am sure it helps) you need moving air. (?)

Once our engine block, primary and transmission can no longer absorb any more heat, what do we do with it all while standing still? How much can a set of rings and heads take before damage will occur. I have seen piston rings loose there spring tension with 1 good "overheat job". And that was on both water and air cooled engines.

That magic number for head temperature (damage) still escapes me. I have asked people outside of this forum, and can never get a straight answer.

This OctorFest I will lean hard on the booths that do this sort of stuff. I will find out the info one way or the other.
 
Have to say Smitty is right...MOCO has a multi-million dollar R&D facility with plenty of track and street miles to find out what works and what doesn't and has been around a "little" while...! There may be some areas where some aftermarket stuff may eclipse MOCO, but in the final analysis, who sells the most stuff everyday...easy call here! :s

Didn't seem to help any in the crankshaft department! :small3d023:
 
Actually it was a bean counter, management business decision...one piece crank expensive to build, multiple pieces design aligned press fitted and bonded was cheaper, verses multiple operations pinning and welding would have been more expensive. Easy to see a MOCO eyeing their foward speaking claims to their shareholders was a bit more important by saving big $$$s in manufacturing...!
 
On the 120, will I need to change the cams, for a more everyday runner.

How will the heat be coming off that much motor:D

It look like we go off on Heat,
I also have run my 96 in 100 plus temps, yes it's hot but :p

Still asking What new part will i need to have a good dependale bike
I'm thinking 110 not sure if i need the 120,
With the 110 on the beanch what would you do before you put it in the bike

1. would you do a little head work,
2. Cams and witch ones,
3. Hyd clutch?
4. do i need differant parts in the primery
5. do i need new thoutle body

Thanks:D:D:D
 
I would not pay for the 110 engine. build the 103 and you will have more oomph. If the bike came with the 110 like the cvo then ok, That 103 with a nice kit would be nice. The 110 makes a little over 80 hp and above 100 torque too many pesos for a small jump.
 
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