100th Anniversary Harley Fat Boy help

Discussion in 'Softail Models' started by mr_fitzz, Apr 25, 2012.

  1. mr_fitzz

    mr_fitzz New Member

    Hey guys, so if i buy this one it will be my first Harley and needed some input as ive only ever rode dirt bikes back in England.
    Ive always wanted a road bike but as im 6ft 4in tall its hard to find one that i feel i can ride for hours.

    anyways I came across a 100th Anniversary Harley Fat Boy in my friends neighbors garage, and she was willing to sell me the bike as she just dose not ride anymore.

    its a 2003 with only 800 miles and she wants 10k for it.

    looking on Ebay it dose seem to be a great deal, but can i make this bike fit me better, is there a seat that can put me back an inch or two?

    The bike has highway pegs and Screaming Eagles pipes and i snapped afew pics which ill post after my post count gets about 5 here :)
  2. RibEye

    RibEye Junior Member Contributor

    A 9+ year old bike with only 800 miles on it? Many parts not having much wear is a good thing. Finish is likely also a good thing. For that price, she would need to be super pristine, and in great running shape. She is an anniversary model, so she may hold her value a bit. I don't know.

    Now for the things to be ready for:
    • Dried out seals and gaskets, so it may take a bit to get caught up on leaks from various places
    • Likely has fuel varnish issues all the way from inside the tank to the jugs (too much time without running fuel through her). This is a particular problem with inside the carb, or the whole system if fuel-injected
    • If she has sat for seriously prolonged period(s) without being run, you may have to remove the jugs and have them at least honed, and replace the rings (too long in one position)
    • Though not got a lot of miles, some parts are still 9+ years old (rubber especially)
    • Before riding her, I would certainly have a dealer do a complete 10K or 20K service on her, just to make sure everything is lubed, tight to spec, properly aligned, etc. You will definitely need new tires, even if plenty of tread (dried out rubber thing again).

    I'm not trying to dissuade you. Just hoping to help you see worst case possibililties before getting committed. I bought a low miles '03 RKC a couple years back. It took quite a bit to get her up to full steam, and now you could not pry me off her with a crowbar. However, low miles is not an indicator of "ready to ride".

    Good luck,
    Rich P
    1 person likes this.
  3. mr_fitzz

    mr_fitzz New Member

    Thanks Rich, paint and everything is showroom, it is the injected engine too.
    my problem would be if i buy this bike it wont leave me to much spare change for fixes, that said even if shes sat in my garage all summer it would not be a big deal, end of the day im just looking for a great bike which i can keep for years to come.

    thanks for the input
  4. lorne

    lorne Senior Member


    sounds like a good deal on that bike. Ribeye has you covered, as far as your height you should be able to find every thing you need to make it comfortable for your size. but good seats and other items you may need are not cheap. how do you fit on it now?
  5. Dr. Dolittle

    Dr. Dolittle Experienced Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

    Rich has given you awesome advice!

    If you're willing to buy a bike and not ride it for quite awhile as you accumulate the funds to get it in road shape, this might be a deal for you. Personally, I'd rather have a bike that was ridden regularly and well taken care of. Mileage is only one part of the equation when buying a used bike.

    Also, I wouldn't pay any kind of premium just because it's an anniversary model. Seems like HD comes out with those every couple years!
  6. RibEye

    RibEye Junior Member Contributor

    Here is the thing for fuel injected machines:

    1. Varnished fuel may have deposited on the inside surface of the tank. This will tend to come off in flakes. It will tend to go through the fuel system and get stopped by the fuel filter. Teh effect will be like putting lima beans in the tank of someone you don't like. The machine will run good until loose flakes seal off all open surfaces of the fuel filter. When you shut off the engine, pressure will release, and the flakes will wander off, only to do it again when you run it again. The effect will be that she will run fine for a bit, each time you run her, then go sour, every time.
    2. I don't know how to clean the varnish off of the inside of the tank, without damaging the tank lining. But, if you don't, even replace the filter, she will accumulate flakes fairly soon, and deja vu.
    3. Varnish will flake off of the inside of the flexible fuel lines, downstream from the filter, and hose up your pressure regulator and/or injectors. Here you replace all fuel lines and fuel rail, as well as injectors, and you should be good there.
    4. Varnish in the fuel pressure regulator, causing it to stick in bypass (as seen at idle), causing fuel pressure to drop initially, any time you go from constant speed to a bit of accelleration (i.e., from a stop, or from cruise to higher speed or up a hill), resulting in stuttering under those conditions. Replace the fuel pressure regulator, and be good with that.
    5. Varnish in the fuel pump can cause overheating or damage to the pump drive windings (duel to overheating), causing intermittent stumbles. Pump replacement will deal with that. Varnish can also obstruct the screen mesh input to the filter, contributing to the issues just stated.
    6. Varnish in the injector(s) can result in bad fuel mixtures (stuck open, stuck closed, partially obstructed, etc. Replacement of both injectors will deal with that.

    My experience causes me to recommend wholesale replacement of everything, from fuel pump to injectors. I would also install a fuel tank crossover quick disconnect, so you can remove your tank, without emptying it, whenever you want. My guess is around $500, maybe more. As I said, I do not know how to get the varnish out of the inside surface of the tank, without damaging the tank liner. Maybe others will be able to suggest a good way.

    Scarey huh? Count the cost going in. If it turns out to be less, you will be good. Otherwise, you will not be blind-sided. Before I was done, I replaced all the sensors, throttle-body, and all fuel supply system parts (listed above). Dealers and indies were unable to find out what the problems were. I know. I paid them to find out (through the nose).

    You will likely also want to install a TFI, exhaust slip-ons, and free breathing intake.

    Good luck,
    Rich P
  7. FerrousBueller

    FerrousBueller Junior Member

    Replies so far seem to have you covered well. I would add just a couple of things:

    Consult Kelly Blue Book online and see what value they place on it. I would add a link, but for the moment I'm severely internet impaired.

    Consider it a project bike, maybe a "Fixer Upper". It sounds like you have a little time to get it running well. Getting the bike to fit you well and running might allow you a discount on the asking price.

    The best advice I read was take it to a mechanic, (either factory or independent) and get an idea on what it would take to get it running correctly. Pay for the estimate and thank the mechanic or dealer profusely, you may need their services again. Use the estimate as a guide to your "Fixing Upping"

    I know this may be only a little help, it's the best I can do for now. In any case please let us know what happens, including pictures!

  8. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

    Run a compression test on this bike before you buy it, you may want to dump some Marvel mystery oil down the cylinders and crank it over prior to starting it with fresh fuel