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08 1200 problems

TPS seems to be a simple resistor so I would suspect hooking ohm meter to it and rolling slowly to make sure it changes on constant curve, am I right?

Yes exactly. Several important points when you test the TPS. Most meters are slow reacting. If you use a continuity beeper function, be sure it is fast acting or a "flat spot" will go unnoticed. Using a meter is really not the best way to test a TPS but it will have to do. Disconnect it from the harness, and test it by moving the control very very slowly.

Remember that even though your bike is Fuel injected it does have a software accelerator pump just like a carb. It is activated when the ECM sees a sudden change on the TPS.
My 2009 TPS can be changed without any calibration needed. I believe yours would be the same.
A flat spot in the TPS would make the bike perform poorly coming off idle but I don't see it making your pipes gray while not having logged a DTC for open or shorted (hi-lo) TPS. If the connector is easy to get at, it is worth checking.
 
Lean running issue was never reasonably diagnosed. They told me it was due to the stage one. THey sold me the super tuner to correct the issue, gave me full credit for the stage one etc. I did not research it nor argue because though what the heck will make bike better...........well it did not make it better.

No idea where the build up on the plugs came from when checked in march. Dealer thought it was running too lean and burning oil. They ruled out burning oil but did not explain what the build up was. I am guessing it was from fuel. Now seeing the o2 sensors I am thinking something in fuel. I have run some MMO from time to time as many do and I am guilty of putting in too much but not more than 4oz per tank. I doubt it is the MMO but who knows.
 
Lean running issue was never reasonably diagnosed. They told me it was due to the stage one. THey sold me the super tuner to correct the issue, gave me full credit for the stage one etc. I did not research it nor argue because though what the heck will make bike better...........well it did not make it better.

No idea where the build up on the plugs came from when checked in march. Dealer thought it was running too lean and burning oil. They ruled out burning oil but did not explain what the build up was. I am guessing it was from fuel. Now seeing the o2 sensors I am thinking something in fuel. I have run some MMO from time to time as many do and I am guilty of putting in too much but not more than 4oz per tank. I doubt it is the MMO but who knows.

It was MY understanding that ANY OIL additive Would do Harm to the 02 sensors..

I like using Diesel to Keep a high performance TC engine (no 02's) from spark-Knock. So when I was stuck in the middle of a Farm area where they use 85 or 87 octane at the pump and diesel right next to it.. In a pinch it works.

If you add Diesel to a 02 sensor motor, I am told: It will ruin the sensors.

Maybe MMO is different? But I would Not use it in My fuel as I have 02's in my new bike.(using TFI does away with the 02's)

That could be a problem with Poor Running. AND build-up on plugs.

signed....BUBBIE
 
I agree with Bubbie. Especially right now while your trying to iron out a problem. I would run straight fresh Brand name fuel. Once you get the bike corrected & running right, then add or do what ever you want. But for now you must be able to eliminate with certainty, one piece of the puzzle at a time without looking back again to the same piece with question.....That is a must.
 
I found the following on another forum and it sure sounds like my issue and they would have removed and installed the intake when they removed the heads in march. Not discussing a sportster but same thing, take a look....



"Well I got the bike back and it runs smoother than it ever has. It was a week and a half ordeal.

There were several things wrong with it. The major one was an intermittant intake leak that did not show up with the normal leak tests, or on the scanalizer. The leak was discovered under load in the dyno room. The cause was a warped or bent flange on the throttle body intake. The leak would occur as the metals expanded and contracted under load.

It also suffered from an over all lean condition that was out of the adjustability paramaters of the TFI. Adding the Rineharts really made it run too lean. As the intermittant intake leak would occur, the ECM tried to compensate by richening the mixture, and that caused the idle to go up. When the ECM sensor read that the engine was not cold it would drop the idle until it stalled out.

So they replaced the Intake Throttle Body, installed a PCIIIr and dyno tuned it. The final numbers are 81HP and 91TQ.

Everything except the PCIIIr, the install, and the dyno tuning was covered under warranty. That's the second time I had the throttle body replaced on that bike for warpage.

The bike runs smooth, strong and is has a lot of torque. There is an occasional popping, but nothing like before. "
 
Good information to know but it should not change your game plan. Save it in case you draw dead. Right now follow through on a FRESH tank of gas. Don't run your present fuel with the new o2 sensors because you may contaminate your new sensors. Drain the tank completely using one of those hand pumps and fill it with a Name Brand.
I love MMO just like the next guy but right now we need to have a fresh Baseline.
 
MMO has not been in my tank for quite some time, at lease since they replace the injectors in March. I suspected the MMo when I saw the deposits on the plugs in the first place.

I have been filling up at BP lately, Doc Weaver said Mobile, Hess and others have issue with their additives not burning properly. I typically fill when there is about a gallon of gas left in the tank. Took 3.5 today.

The one thing to remember though is that it has run the same from date of purchase March 2008 until March 2010 when they took apart the top end and installed SuperTuner Map. Bike ran fine with exception of being very jerky as low speeds 15mph through 25mph. It even ran fine when the pipes were turning gray and plugs were fouled with the white crust. Problems showed as soon as i picked it up from the shop after top end removal and install and Super tuner.

Like most engines that I have chased problems on , there typically if not always have been several related and or unrelated problems discovered.
 
That is good that the tank has Fresh fuel. the Next step is to see is if the codes come back with the new sensors. If the codes come back at least you know they are real codes and are not erroneous due to the sensors not toggling at the bias point from contamination.

You have ALL the tell-tail signs of a vacuum leak. Take it one step at a time. The work you are doing is Not going to waste. This information is invaluable.
 
PO 152 is the recurrent code.

Got the new o2 sensors and installed, now all I need is a rain free window to ride in. Hope to test it this weekend.

So far so good, no PO152 code. Will ride some more.

New O2 sensors seem to have taken care of part of the problem. I put some miles on it yesterday evening and again this morning and NO PO152 code. I seems to be a little less jerky at 10-15 in 1st and 15 to 25 in second. Thus far no issue of slow acceleration after 70 seconds or so of idle.

I now think that the remainder of the issues are tuning. I will take back to Orlando HD and have them do more fine tuning and I believe we are done.

Side note, back in march when this all started I sent an Email to orlando HD and told them among other things that they must pull the o2 sensors and give them a vis and they did not. I believe a vis may have helped solve some of the issues much earlier and they would have saved their time and money by not putting in injectors, map sensor crank sensor and second and third swap of fuel pump module.
 
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I sent an Email to orlando HD and told them among other things that they must pull the o2 sensors and give them a vis and they did not.

Hat, a visual (eyeball) on the o2 sensors really would not tell you much at all. To really check an o2 sensor, you MUST look at the transition point (or toggle point) on a scope while the sensor is in use and while using a breakout box. It is not something you can even check with a hand-held meter. That level of diagnostics is generally not found at dealerships.

But Glad you are rolling. :)
 
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