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07 roadking and Crank Runout Concern

The crankshaft is press fit together, it's just fine for stock to moderate hp and tq.
The problems come when high hp/tq and hard shifting can cause the crank halves to move or shift. It will only shift a few thousandths, but that's enough to cause problems. Gearing down without matching rpm's or or locking the rear wheel, is possible to cause it. BUT not likely. I do not ever let my engine rpms drop below 2,000 in 3rd or higher (that's lugging). Without a tach, an '07 will be very close to 2,000 rpm at 30 in 3rd, 40 in 4th, 50 in 5th and in 6th. Easy to remember huh?
 
Thanks for the rpm info. My brother does not have a problem down shifting his and at well above the posted speeds and some times a couple of gears:) I am not that brave because I had no idea where I was. I have a tack in my truck and car both turbo diesel. I avoid short shifting the truck that can wreck the transmission . I use the tack all of the time. Harley is a different engine . I was wondering if lugging the engine could cause the crank to vibrate enough to cause the problem, guess not, just shock loads. I really appreciate the advice . I really like a Harley . I sounds a little like my old 68 Camaro with the 302 and 4 speed but it does not run like it. Thanks again Jim
 
Riding in the mountains will require a bit of throttle roll-on to attack the hill. You will find yourself easily losing ground if riding two up and going up a steep grade and if then having to roll off the throttle it will require a drop down in gear as you mentioned. They are not sport bikes. :s

Further to what breeze3at has said about RPMs here is a link to a chart that is also in the owner's manual. Knowing the gear you are in and the speed you are doing is critical without a tach so you don't lug the motor. After awhile your ear gets tuned and the sound tells you when you are in the sweet spot.


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Thanks I need to study that and make a few notes Jim
 
Now that I have read about the poor quality work on the crank and hd even poor way to evade warranty work , I am at a point of deciding what to do with the bike. I may just sell it and buy an older bike. It really chaps me get taken in by Harley and poor workmanship. I just wont to be practical about the bike . Thanks for any advice , however I probably wont give it away Jim:(

2007 was the year the MoCo changed the tolerance spec, for warranty purposes, from .003" to .012". It was also the same year the crank manufacturing was shipped off shore; what a coincidence.

2007 being the first year for a new supplier resulted in some QA/QC bugs and some out of spec cranks were installed. However, there are plenty of owners of 2007 models that are not having run out issues; the vast majority of them are not having run out issues.

If you plan to keep the motor stock or upgraded to Stage I and don't abuse the motor, you should enjoy many trouble free miles. However, if you plan to increase displacement and/or upgrade the motor to deliver more than 100HP, you might consider including upgrading the lower unit by having the crank trued and welded and balanced as well.

Don't "borrow trouble"; if the bike is running well, ride it until it doesn't and deal with the situation then. JMHO.
 
2007 was the year the MoCo changed the tolerance spec, for warranty purposes, from .003" to .012". It was also the same year the crank manufacturing was shipped off shore; what a coincidence.

2007 being the first year for a new supplier resulted in some QA/QC bugs and some out of spec cranks were installed. However, there are plenty of owners of 2007 models that are not having run out issues; the vast majority of them are not having run out issues.

If you plan to keep the motor stock or upgraded to Stage I and don't abuse the motor, you should enjoy many trouble free miles. However, if you plan to increase displacement and/or upgrade the motor to deliver more than 100HP, you might consider including upgrading the lower unit by having the crank trued and welded and balanced as well.

Don't "borrow trouble"; if the bike is running well, ride it until it doesn't and deal with the situation then. JMHO.
Excellent advice . Right now I have a larger air cleaner and slip on vance hines fish tail exhaust . Runs flat and it needs a tuner of some kind. I intend on buying a tack. I believe that is about stage one. I will do as you suggest , I had wonted to install a cam that pulled hard in the mid range along with gear drive . Andrews is what is suggested to me. If I pull the engine down I will install a set of good rods, h or I beam and have the crank done right, and be done with that, all of the recommended up grades on bearings ect. I will just have to do a little reading:) But for now I will do as you suggest as it makes since to me . I will not try to shock load the engine , buy a tack and a tuner of some kind . When and if I have problems or decide to step it up the crank will have to be included in the mix . I had just wonted it to pull hard to red line but that is not going to happen. It is just a stock bike and that is the way it is. I wont to thank every one for good advice Jim:)
 
Excellent advice . Right now I have a larger air cleaner and slip on vance hines fish tail exhaust . Runs flat and it needs a tuner of some kind. I intend on buying a tack. I believe that is about stage one. I will do as you suggest , I had wonted to install a cam that pulled hard in the mid range along with gear drive . Andrews is what is suggested to me. If I pull the engine down I will install a set of good rods, h or I beam and have the crank done right, and be done with that, all of the recommended up grades on bearings ect. I will just have to do a little reading:) But for now I will do as you suggest as it makes since to me . I will not try to shock load the engine , buy a tack and a tuner of some kind . When and if I have problems or decide to step it up the crank will have to be included in the mix . I had just wonted it to pull hard to red line but that is not going to happen. It is just a stock bike and that is the way it is. I wont to thank every one for good advice Jim:)

A Dobeck TFI, at least Gen3 and a set of 203 cams will wake things up. Easy DIY job; replace inner cam bearings as well. Stick with chain drive; if you tweak the crank with gear drive, bad juju. The chain drive system works very well and much easier to work on. The Dobeck unit is a DIY install and tune as well; good customer service and, IMHO, the best of the "pot" type tuners.
 
A Dobeck TFI, at least Gen3 and a set of 203 cams will wake things up. Easy DIY job; replace inner cam bearings as well. Stick with chain drive; if you tweak the crank with gear drive, bad juju. The chain drive system works very well and much easier to work on. The Dobeck unit is a DIY install and tune as well; good customer service and, IMHO, the best of the "pot" type tuners.
I had considered that before also the crank goes out and a gear drive would be a train wreck. I was just not sure about the chain drive on my bike but I think its better than the early version on chain drive. I was unsure about adding extra torque to the bike with the crank as it is . I will have to read up on the tuner that you mentioned. Tired of the flat response and worried a little about the lean mixture and heat that can cause. The 203 cam I am not sure what that grind is but I appreciate the info and will try to research on it. The Dobeck system I will have to read up on it. On systems at work we just add a value to it if we wont to change the way it operates. Thanks again Jim
 
The 203 cam I am not sure what that grind is but I appreciate the info and will try to research on it. The Dobeck system I will have to read up on it. On systems at work we just add a value to it if we wont to change the way it operates. Thanks again Jim

The SE203 cam is an H-D cam but I forgot that it is not available for the later models. The SE204 is available however and is a better cam IMHO. I have seen some 96"ers make 100TQ/95HP with OEM heads and those cams.
 
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