J
Jack Klarich
Guest
HMMMM why does the MOCO always mess up a good thing I guess r and d didnt do its home work again never saw this big of a problem in the old dats I guess thats the price we pay for progress
06 dyna Rotor-Stator
- Thread starter porkchop
- Start date
One thing about trial and error, make a small mistake people complain, make a big one and it becomes stuff and legend...explained away by a new and improved feature enhancement that is fixed in subsequent years. Microsoft has been doing it in the short term...MOCO had a lot more experience in doing it. As Glider says, certain improvements are made to save money and are eh...less than successful. Just think of all the things that they COULD have improved on but chose NOT to...
QehQeh
Member
Hi All:
I finally got the time today to get into the primary chaincase to get to the rotor and stator. Unfortunetly, I couldn't get the clutch/mainshaft nut off. (I know it's an opposite thread) I used an 18" breaker bar and couldn't get it off. I made a locking tool out of 1/4" alum bar stock just like the one the manual says to use. I'm afraid if the nut is glued on with loctite, I might break something if I use a pipe on the breaker bar for more leverage. Is this normal? I was leaning on that bar mighty hard. Would an impact wrench (used with the locking bar in place) be safer than using a pipe for leverage?
Also, regarding the depth of the wear groove in the chain tensioner shoe: when is it time to replace the shoe? I can't find any specs in the manual or this forum. I have 14,000 miles on the bike and the grooves (only at the front part of the shoe) are about the thickness of a credit card.
Thanks much,
QehQeh
I finally got the time today to get into the primary chaincase to get to the rotor and stator. Unfortunetly, I couldn't get the clutch/mainshaft nut off. (I know it's an opposite thread) I used an 18" breaker bar and couldn't get it off. I made a locking tool out of 1/4" alum bar stock just like the one the manual says to use. I'm afraid if the nut is glued on with loctite, I might break something if I use a pipe on the breaker bar for more leverage. Is this normal? I was leaning on that bar mighty hard. Would an impact wrench (used with the locking bar in place) be safer than using a pipe for leverage?
Also, regarding the depth of the wear groove in the chain tensioner shoe: when is it time to replace the shoe? I can't find any specs in the manual or this forum. I have 14,000 miles on the bike and the grooves (only at the front part of the shoe) are about the thickness of a credit card.
Thanks much,
QehQeh
Hoople
Account Removed
GREAT Pictures. Awesome seeing up close damage like this. Clears up so many questions for me.
Thanks for posting those shots. And glad you had ESP to help you out.
Hoople
Account Removed
The spec for torque on mine (09 FXDL) is 80 ft/pounds. I would not use an impact wrench. With an 18" breaker bar it should come right off.
It is reverse thread so make believe you are tightening it to get it off.
Maybe hit it with a heat gun (no flame) in case someone before you used #271 red locktight. ??
Hoop!
QehQeh
Member
Thanks Hoop:
I cleaned the nut and surrounding areas of oil and hit it with a propane torch for around 20 seconds (had the fire extinquisher by my side). I'm changing out the IPB and seal, so I figured even if the heat got that far back it wouldn't matter. As soon as I saw loctite bubbling around the threads, I knew I had it licked. Nut loosened right up with the breaker bar. Comp sprocket nut was no problem, it actually had BLUE loctite on it. I was able to get the rotor off without removing the chaincase. I wedged a couple of screwdrivers in the (vacated) bolt holes and it pulled right off. REAL nice design on that rotor. Well at least WHEN the bolts come loose, they stick to the magnets instead of bouncing around inside the primary case. But then that's why you don't notice it until it's too late. I was lucky, the stator had relatively little damage so there wasn't alot of debri circulating in the primary. I'll post photos soon.
Thank you all for your great advise.
:cheers
QehQeh
QehQeh
Member
Hi All:
I haven't received my replacement rotor and stator yet and I'm curious... On the old 2 piece rotor, the rotor is (was) bolted to the comp spring unit. With the new rotor, do you reuse the old comp spring unit, or do you have to buy a new/different one?
Thanks much,
QehQeh
BTW Does anyone know if the ROTOR listed for the 2007 dyna (OEM# 40356-07) is the same part that comes in the 2006 upgrade "stator & rotor kit" (OEM# 40356-06B) ? The 2007 charging system is 40 Amp, where as the 2006 is 38 Amp. The rotor is just a bunch of magnets - could it be different for the 40 Amp or 38 Amp system?
I received my stator and rotor - the rotor is the wrong part - doesn't have the "spring cover assy" welded to it.
Thanks for any help,
QehQeh
I haven't received my replacement rotor and stator yet and I'm curious... On the old 2 piece rotor, the rotor is (was) bolted to the comp spring unit. With the new rotor, do you reuse the old comp spring unit, or do you have to buy a new/different one?
Thanks much,
QehQeh
BTW Does anyone know if the ROTOR listed for the 2007 dyna (OEM# 40356-07) is the same part that comes in the 2006 upgrade "stator & rotor kit" (OEM# 40356-06B) ? The 2007 charging system is 40 Amp, where as the 2006 is 38 Amp. The rotor is just a bunch of magnets - could it be different for the 40 Amp or 38 Amp system?
I received my stator and rotor - the rotor is the wrong part - doesn't have the "spring cover assy" welded to it.
Thanks for any help,
QehQeh
Last edited by a moderator:
Hoople
Account Removed
Can't tell you the answer to the question you asked, but I can tell you that on an '09 Dyna FXDL it uses the same #40356-07 Rotor also. And the finished designed system rating is 38 amps output.
Not really sure what your asking.
Do you want to know if you can use your old rotor with a new 40Amp stator and regulator. Even though your old rotor came from a 38 amp system?
Not really sure what your asking.
Do you want to know if you can use your old rotor with a new 40Amp stator and regulator. Even though your old rotor came from a 38 amp system?
Last edited by a moderator:
QehQeh
Member
Hi All:
I'm trying to find replacement parts online. The only part(s) that I have found specifically listed for the 2006 dyna is the OEM# 40356-06B "stator & rotor kit." I can find the stator (30017-01) listed separately, but nothing that lists a rotor replacement specifically for the 2006 dyna. I just got back from the local dealer and he said the 40356-06B "stator & rotor kit" (2006 dyna) uses the rotor listed for the 2007 bikes (40356-07). My concern is the 2007 charging system is 40 Amps and the 2006 is 38 Amps. Am I safe in assuming that there is no difference between the rotors used for the 38 and 40 Amp systems?
Thanks for any help - if it weren't for this forum, I would have put out the big bucks to have the dealer repair the bike.:bigsmiley15:
QehQeh