05 Ultra not charging

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by Sportglide57, Sep 6, 2007.

  1. Sportglide57

    Sportglide57 Member

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    If I start the bike cold it is charging at 14.5 volts. Rev the bike even slightly and volts drop to 12. Return to idle, still 12. I found an archived page on google (php-714) ohms test on stator is ok, and the test to ground is also ok, however output in AC volts never goes above 6 volts. Regulator test was bad as voltage on one pin was 11 volts dc.
    I don't know if these tests apply to my Ultra or not as this link did not show the original question asked. I hate to replace the stator if it is not bad, but I don't want to fry a new regulator either.
     
  2. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    Stators can be deceiving, they can put out the voltage expected and not do it under load.

    Use this procedure and test it again and come back with the results.

    http://www.hdtalking.com/electrical_and_lighting_systems/741-testing_the_charging_system.html

    One other thing to check is the harness coming out of the regulator where it goes under the frame. They have been known to rub against the frame , wear through the insulation and short to ground with movement of the bike.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2007
  3. Sportglide57

    Sportglide57 Member

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    Thanks for the reply. Your thread was the one I found on google. Those are the tests I performed. Other than low AC output the stator checked OK. The regulator checked bad. The plug and wiring don't show any wear/rubbing. Do you think I should just try the regulator first?
     
  4. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    The regulator is the lesser of two evils, besides you said that you had 11 volts I believe on the plug from the regulator. That is an indication that the bridge rectifier in the regulator is bad.
    Generally it's a good idea when replacing the stator to do the regulator also in any event so it's not wasted money.

    You mention that output never goes above 6 volts, is this measured on the stator pins on the case and with additional RPM's too?
     
  5. Sportglide57

    Sportglide57 Member

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    well, I tore it down this morning and stator is really fried! 3 coils are melted. Got new stator and reg. getting ready to put it back together now. Thanks for the help Glider. Can't believe that Harley makes you buy a separate manual now for electric troubleshooting. Well, yes I guess I can after all,
    H D = Hundred Dollar. Ha!
     
  6. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    Glad you got to the base of the problem.
    One thing I forgot to mention is that you can usually smell the primary oil and if it is a bad stator, the oil will smell really bad and burnt. Not much help now for you but maybe it will help someone else out.

    I've noticed that Harley has a way of parting you from your dollars. They must have a "seperation" department that researches how to do this.:dknow
     
  7. jdawg

    jdawg New Member

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    Interesting to read your comments on the charging issue. I have a 99 FLHTCUI bored & stroked to 120". In addition I replaced the factory stereo with a high end alpine during the rebuild. The problem I am having is the volts drop below 8 at idle. This occurs now even when the radio, accessory switch, running lights etc are turned off.

    It seems the battery isnt charging, and that there is only about 10volts output even @ 3000 RPMs but I cant tell because of the additional cranking amps the big inch motor draws. Any thoughts?

    Should a heavy duty or 3 phase 40amp chargins system be added with the big inch and stereo upgrade?
     
  8. Sportglide57

    Sportglide57 Member

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    The big inch conversion will not draw any extra amperage once the motor is running. Only when you are cranking it. If you didn't have to change the wiring going to the Alpine unit then I doubt that it is drawing a lot more amps than the stock unit. I think you just have a stator or regulator gone bad. Did you do the tests that Glider suggested in his post? Here is the link for that page
    http://www.hdtalking.com/electrical_and_lighting_systems/741-testing_the_charging_system.html
    You don't have to have to battery load tested first but it is a good idea. You can just charge the battery fully and see if you have 12 volts at the battery after it is charged with the bike not running. If you do then do the checks outlined in the link. Let me know what you find.
     
  9. jdawg

    jdawg New Member

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    looking at it this weekend. Will update. Thanks for the help