03 ultra charging problem

[marcus22]

It means that some of your regulator output is being wasted instead of charging the battery. The difference between a battery not being charged at all (12.70 volts) and the battery being overcharged (14.70 volts) is only 2 volts. It's easy to think it's 12 volts and not just 2 volts, but it's just 2 volts..

So if you measure a voltage drop of just .50 volts, that really represents 25% of the stator's total output being wasted. That means the stator & regulator needs to work overtime just to keep up with the loses of poor connections.. The regulator and stator will now be on overtime and will run hotter than they should. If your lucky, a diode will open when the regulator finally gives up. But if it shorts, the stator is 30 minutes from its death.

that makes total sense! Thank you. so i need to fix the charging problem before I test the voltage drop from the regulator to the batt. right?

 

[marcus22]

hoople,

ok did some more testing. I did the sator ground test and very time i would touch the probe to the engine/frame ground the digital read out would jump to 6 but then go back to 0.0 and hold steady at 0.0. it would do this every time. is that my meter just figuring itself out before it gives a reading or is the stator bad?

so heres what i think,

The regulator has voltage (bad?). The stator has good continuity between the prongs (.1-.2 ohms) i think it is showing infinity on the ground (let me know what you think from above). but at idle the stator is only putting out 3.0-3.6 volts (bad?). both then are bad and once i fix them i can test the voltage drop from the regulator to the batt to prevent future problems.

oh one more thing. can i ruin new parts by connecting them to bad parts? ex: i buy a new regulator and plug it into a bad stator or vice versa.

let me know what you guys think.

marcus

 

[Hoople]

i think it is showing infinity on the ground (let me know what you think from above).

If you think,, how can we know. Paragraph 1 of entry point #6 of this thread is how to test it.

 

[marcus22]

If you think,, how can we know. Paragraph 1 of entry point #6 of this thread is how to test it.

i was just asking about my meter. and i figured it out that it is showing infinity on the stator ground test.

 

[Hoople]

but at idle the stator is only putting out 3.0-3.6 volts (bad?).

If AC volts and you can trust the meter, I would say the stator is bad.

 

[marcus22]

If AC volts and you can trust the meter, I would say the stator is bad.

Thats what i thought. I am going to double check the readings with a different meter on tuesday. then when i find the time i am going to replace the regulator and stator. just debating to put a new rear drive belt while i have it all apart.

thanks for your help i will post more when i get working on it.

 

[marcus22]

Marcus

In more cases than not I have seen replacing only a stator or just a regulator takes out the new part you installed again. This is one case where it makes sense to replace the stator AND the regulator as a pair.

Thats what i was thinking. I just ran across this charging system testing further in the self help area:

Testing Harley Davidson Charging Systems - Tech Articles


and this section was interesting:

"4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage)."

my AC output test failed, the resistance check passed, and the Stator IB test passed. so according to that article the Rotor may be at fault. would you replace the rotor and not the stator?

thanks,

marcus

 

[marcus22]

Do you get a burnt smell out of the primary

I haven't opened it up yet to check but i will

 

[marcus22]

double checked all findings with another meter and all is the same. now just need to find the time to get into it.

 

[marcus22]

so i finally got time and i fixed it! thanks to all who helped. I owe you a beer!

heres what i found and did:

the primary oil was burnt and smelled

and i took it all off and found the rotor was good and the stator was bad

so i put a new one on!

one thing i would suggest is read the directions to instal the stator. i put the connector on the wires before i put them through the hole on the engine. was not fun to get them off without breaking things.

total of about $550. i did the voltage regulator also and a couple odds and ends things too. now off to Duluth, MN tomorrow for the weekend!

thanks a bunch