03 night train ignition $ dead

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by Pipe wrap, Feb 18, 2012.

  1. Pipe wrap

    Pipe wrap Member

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    On a short ride with a friend,pull over turn bike off with ignition switch like always to discuss our destination,few words said then turn ignition on an for a split second see normallity and then dead in the water!no power on ignition side of switch,but accessories side is good!so check fuses all seem to be ok,pull switch speedo cover off of tank and jump out ignition with no luck!so trailer bike home.test battery it has 12.63 volts 75% charge terminals are tight,meter test voltage at fuse box,ignition switch power ok,ohms test switch ok??? history on bike bought 2 yrs ago with 14 thousand miles on her totally stock with a proven dealership service history from original owner.I have put on V&H short shots power commander & k&n filter and have enjoyed the hell out of it!I have a jap bike history only my second HD and i am not sure what direction to go next? any HD GURU INPUT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRETIATED,THANKS
     
  2. R_W_B

    R_W_B Senior Member

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    Hmmm maybe Hoople will come along here. He's the expert, but problems like this I start at base one. Clean and tighten all your grounds. Clean and retighten battery connections. If it still does it then start checking the Ignition switch, starter circuit and relays.
     
  3. 2000classic

    2000classic Active Member

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    simple things first, and I don't mean to insult, but did the kill switch get bumped? It happens!
     
  4. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Need more detail. The ignition switch has 3 terminals.
    Terr 1=> Ignition Terminal/Red&Black wire.
    Terr 2=>Battery terminal/ Red wire
    Terr 3=> Accessory Terminal/Red & Gray wire.

    When the key switch is in the ignition position,, all three terminals are tied together. Is that what you did to "jumper it". All three wires were tied together and the bike still had no power?
     
  5. Pipe wrap

    Pipe wrap Member

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    Yes when I tried to jump it out all three terminals were tied together @ the switch plug and got no power to the ignition side, but had power to accessories side
     
  6. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Is the bike carbureted or EFI.
     
  7. Pipe wrap

    Pipe wrap Member

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    Its efi
     
  8. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    When you say you have no power to the "ignition side" do you mean there is no power to the entire ign BRANCH or just no power to the ignition module (terminal A of the COILS 4 pin connector).

    If you have no power to the Ignition BRANCH, that means you also have no instrument lights or turn signals. Is this the case?

    If you push the starter button, will the bike crank?
    If the bike will not crank, perform this test.

    Remove the system relay. Look at the bottom of the relay to identify pin # 86 in small print. Leave the relay out for now. Take a volt meter and measure the voltage from relay socket pin 86 to frame ground while the ignition key is ON and the Run/Kill switch is in the RUN position. Do you read 12 volts.
     
  9. Pipe wrap

    Pipe wrap Member

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    Correct no instrument lights,no turn signals,and the bike will not crank over. I will do as you suggest and get on here tomorrow,thanks for sharing your expertise ! much appreciated
     
  10. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Sounds like the problem is the entire IGN side of the key switch is dead. There is really no need to perform the system relay pin test because we already can guess what the results will be. The results will probably be zero volts also.

    Something doesn't make any sense here. We have to back up for a second to an earlier step. In entry point 1 of this thread you said "no power on ignition side of switch,but accessories side is good!". In entry point # 5 you backed up that statement.
    The Accessory side of the ignition switch supplies voltage to the brake light circuit. If the accessory side is really good, you should be able to place the key in accessory, apply brakes and see the brake light come on BRIGHT... If you can,,,, then once again go back and group all three wires at the ignition switch, press on the brake pedal and check to see if the brake lights still come on BRIGHT.

    I have this feeling the answer will be No. The brake light will not be bright. But if the answer to this is YES, (the brake light comes on bright while the ignition switch is grouped),, then I want you to => group all three wires at the ignition switch, press on the brake switch and while you see a BRIGHT brake light,, take your volt meter and check to see if you have 12 volts on BOTH sides of the IGN,,INSTR,,& LIGHTS fuses. (3 fuses)

    I will almost bet the answer to this test will be "no". That is, with the ignition switch wires grouped and brake light glowing bright, you won't read 12 volts on BOTH sides of those three fuses OR the brake light will no longer be glowing bright. Something will have to be missing...

    I am going to take a wild guess and say the brake light will no longer glow bright when you group all three ignition wires together. And the voltage you read at those 3 fuses will be something like 2-3 volts (while applying brakes). That would make the most sense of all possibilities.