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02 Road King Light Load Vibration & Rattle/Grating Noise

I cant seem to get gap to less than .135" though?

And the question regarding the RTV application?

BTW, that IPB seal has the "oil" side labeled; I am sure you caught that but just checking.;)

Awww (EDIT)

Went out and looked and you were correct, I installed it the way the factory original one was...which is opposite of where the "Oil Side" label is!

I feel like an idiot, but in my defense those are some pretty (EDIT) small letters and Im 52 years old!!

I am excited though because this will probably solve my issue. :)
 
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And the question regarding the RTV application?

No RTC between the inner primary and the motor case and no RTC on the inner primary bolt threads. Apply RTV under the bolt head and locking washer.

Also wrap the main shaft splines with painters tape to avoid nicking the IPB seal while slipping the inner primary on and off; very easy to do and you won't know it until all buttoned up and still leaking.:eek:
 
Might look at loctite 680! Use the OEM race and be done with it. We use the 680 on press fit bearings at the plant all the time in equipment that will vibrate up to .75 in/sec at 3600 rpm's and they never move.


Loctite - Bearing Adhesive; Bearing Mount 680 - Relaxed Fits; 36 ml Bottle;
High strength, medium viscosity anaerobic adhesive for slip fit assemblies. Provides 4,000 psi shear strength on steel. Fixtures in 10 minutes at room temperature.
Suggested Applications:Replaces set screws, replaces clamp rings, replaces snap rings, wheel bearings, idler shaft, press fit bearings.
 
RTV is good for sealing threads, but I have ALWAYS used caution around any oil or water passages, loctite on bearing races is a good idea been using RED on inner tie rods on rack and pinions and press fit bearings for years. Ford used to recommend loctite on all their front wheel drive bearing replacements, the knucles would wear causing the new bearing to have slight play
 
Sorry for your troubles Vincent... this has been an interesting thread, learning a bunch from all you guys.
 
If the S&S race is working, stick with it; it will never walk in. If it doesn't work for you, you will be the first.o_O
 
Well, got it all sorted out....assembled and rode her today.

New inner primary bearing, S & S race, seals, front motor mount, tightened up my muffler baffles, etc...

Good news is the leak is fixed for the first time in a longggg time!

The vibe seems much better now with the new front motor mount too.

However, I can still get that crunchy feeling with associated sound....its not as bad, I generally feel it on light acceleration from a stop.

About the time I hit third gear, light acceleration, crunchy sound left side of bike.

Could it be the clutch hub bearings??
 
Well, got it all sorted out....assembled and rode her today.

New inner primary bearing, S & S race, seals, front motor mount, tightened up my muffler baffles, etc...

Good news is the leak is fixed for the first time in a longggg time!

The vibe seems much better now with the new front motor mount too.

However, I can still get that crunchy feeling with associated sound....its not as bad, I generally feel it on light acceleration from a stop.

About the time I hit third gear, light acceleration, crunchy sound left side of bike.

Could it be the clutch hub bearings??
Pull the clutch plates out, tranny in neutral give the hub a spin does it feel rough or wobble?
 
Do these bearings have a tendency to get play and wear in them after say, 65,000 miles?

Although I didn't pull the clutch pack apart when I had the primary apart, I couldn't feel anything unusual in it.

In retrospect, I guess I should have pulled the plates out and spun it?
 
OK, I think I was premature thinking it was still making noises.

I rode her through a full tank of gas today and it seems like the inner primary bearing and S & S race did indeed do the trick.

The noise seems to have actually gone away...and I put her through the paces today!

Thanks for the help!
 
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