'01 FLSTF Ignition Problem

[Flatbar]

OK. Here is the next step in order to get you rolling faster.

OK, it seems that I had a bad lead on my voltmeter.

Ignition switch ON, Run/Stop switch to Run.

I DO have 12+v on both the coil feed and BOTH poles of the ignition fuse, tested the fuse just by pulling it up far enough to put the voltmeter lead on it.

So, I have power to the coil (12+volts) and the fuse has power throughput, both poles, and it measures 12+ volts.

I did another spark test using a bolt stuck in the plug wire and tried the cylinder head, cooling fins and frame to ground the spark to, checked the bolt continuity first to make sure it would conduct electricity, got no spark.

So, it looks like a bad coil, correct?

 

[Hoople]

So, it looks like a bad coil, correct?

Too early to tell at this point.

Test #1) The coil has a three terminal connector going to it. Yellow/blue is terminal "A". White/Black is terminal "B". Blue/orange is terminal "C".
Remove the connector from the coil. Take a 12 volt test light or any small low current bulb such as a #89, #90, #67 (but not a meter,,not a logic probe,,not a LED test probe) and place it between the Positive of the battery and terminal "A" of the wiring harness connector. While cranking engine, does the test light flash.
Now place the test light between Positive of battery and terminal "C". Crank engine. Does test light flash. If "No" to both conditions, your problem is probably not the coil. If "yes" to both conditions, the coil (or something on secondary side) is probably bad.

Test # 2) Disconnect the crank sensor from the wiring harness but leave it installed in the crankcase. Place a voltmeter across the two wires from the crank sensor. Set your meter to read AC volts. Crank the engine. Meter reading while cranking should be at least 1.0 volts. What do you read.

 

[Flatbar]

Sorry it took so long for me to respond, got called out of town.

Too early to tell at this point.

Test #1) The coil has a three terminal connector going to it. Yellow/blue is terminal "A". White/Black is terminal "B". Blue/orange is terminal "C".
Remove the connector from the coil. Take a 12 volt test light or any small low current bulb such as a #89, #90, #67 (but not a meter,,not a logic probe,,not a LED test probe) and place it between the Positive of the battery and terminal "A" of the wiring harness connector. While cranking engine, does the test light flash.
Now place the test light between Positive of battery and terminal "C". Crank engine. Does test light flash. If "No" to both conditions, your problem is probably not the coil. If "yes" to both conditions, the coil (or something on secondary side) is probably bad.

OK, I did this test multiple times and got no flashes on my test light.

Test # 2) Disconnect the crank sensor from the wiring harness but leave it installed in the crankcase. Place a voltmeter across the two wires from the crank sensor. Set your meter to read AC volts. Crank the engine. Meter reading while cranking should be at least 1.0 volts. What do you read.

I tried this one multiple times also and got no voltage from the two pins.
On both tests I followed your instructions to a "T" and got negative results.

 

[Hoople]

On both tests I followed your instructions to a "T" and got negative results.

Well if you followed test #2 correctly and you read Zero volts AC while cranking,,, go no further. You have a bad crank sensor.

(If the crank sensor was bad, the test light in Test#1 would not flash also)

 

[Flatbar]

Well if you followed test #2 correctly and you read Zero volts AC while cranking,,, go no further. You have a bad crank sensor.

(If the crank sensor was bad, the test light in Test#1 would not flash also)

Thanks for your help Hoople!